Need Help With 361

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

deezulsmoke

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Messages
159
Reaction score
9
Location
southern, Indiana
I am getting ready to buy a 28" bar with skip chain for my 361. I am wondering if I can run the stock sprocket with this bar or if I need to purchase a different sprocket, I have noticed some people are running a different tooth sprocket on the 361 with a 28" bar. Does anyone also know which sprocket I would need from Baileys to purchase along with the bar and chains ??

Thanks Alot
Matt
 
As long as the drives on the chain are the same size (thickness... as in .050, .058 ect. ect.) then yes.
 
Rims and spurs dont care about gauge (.50, .58, or .63) Just pitch.

If you are running 3/8, than you can run 3/8 as many drivers as you want.

I think what you are referring to is either a 7 tooth rim or 8 tooth rim. On a 28" bar on the 361youll want to stick to the 7 tooth. On shorter bars, say 16" to 20" you can step up to an 8 tooth rim to get some chain speed. But keep in mind any increase in chain speed is a decrease in useable torque.
 
What do you all think about a 32" bar on the 361 ?? Baileys is out of the 28" carlton premium bars that are on special. This bar will rarely be used, just once in a while for really big stuff around the house. Thanks for the advice everyone.
 
I would say a 32" will be useless on that saw, even with full skip. Why no go to where you bought the saw and buy a 28" from them.
 
Yeah, 32" is too much for that saw, and I'm a long bar, West Coast guy saying that. The 361 will pull that 28" in soft wood fairly easily, and Casey ran his with a 28". But I don't even run a 32" on my 440. That's for the 460. I run my 361 with a 24". If I need 28", I go for the 440, but the 361 would do it. The 32" with that saw would work you harder than need be. Plus, the saw would hate it.
 
Oh I say go ahead and buy the 32 incher. The 361 won't pull it great, but we all know it is only a matter of time before you have a bigger saw to run it on. I can tell you want the 32 - and Christmas is coming up.
 
Baileys had there premium sprocket tip titanium bars on sale for forty bucks for the 32" bar. I wanted there 28" bar they had on sale for thirty bucks but they are out of them. I think the 32 would be to much for that saw also, I just hate to pass up the deals they are having right now on there bars.
 
deezulsmoke said:
Baileys had there premium sprocket tip titanium bars on sale for forty bucks for the 32" bar. I wanted there 28" bar they had on sale for thirty bucks but they are out of them. I think the 32 would be to much for that saw also, I just hate to pass up the deals they are having right now on there bars.

Well you know you are going to be getting a bigger saw, so stock up now on the parts to get it going.
 
deezulsmoke said:
Baileys had there premium sprocket tip titanium bars on sale for forty bucks for the 32" bar. I wanted there 28" bar they had on sale for thirty bucks but they are out of them. I think the 32 would be to much for that saw also, I just hate to pass up the deals they are having right now on there bars.

If you are already putting in an order (already paying shipping) then I still say what the hey. Add a 32 to your budding bar collection. I have a couple of those bars and they are a great deal. Course I run them on my 066 or 395. Bars are a slippery slope, though and lead to more and bigger saws. But I still say what the hey. Bars don't take up much space, and are really quiet at night.
 
Buy a 36" and hang it on the wall till you get a 660. In the meantime it'll look good and is cheaper than most artwork...

Or get the 32" and wait on a 460...

FWIW, I saw a new Stihl 28" sell for $39 buy it now on ebay. I passed since I was looking for a 32 or 36 at the time. It actually stayed out there for nearly a week. So if you want a 28" you can find one.

You can probably get a used 24/25 here on AS pretty cheap. Very popular size.

Most I'll put on my 361 is a 25 w/ skip.

...
 
B_Turner said:
If you are already putting in an order (already paying shipping) then I still say what the hey. Add a 32 to your budding bar collection. I have a couple of those bars and they are a great deal. Course I run them on my 066 or 395. Bars are a slippery slope, though and lead to more and bigger saws. But I still say what the hey. Bars don't take up much space, and are really quiet at night.

I picked up one of those Carlton bars in 36". Couldnt pass on the price.
 
CaseyForrest said:
I picked up one of those Carlton bars in 36". Couldnt pass on the price.

ME TOO!! :D (but you already knew that!)

attachment.php


...
 
Man you all talked me into buying the 361 and now I am already wanting a new 441 LOL Really a 660 :) Does anyone know any other places where they have any good deals on bars like the carltons ??
 
One thing to think about ahead of time on your 32 and up inch bars: What gauge you are going to run. That Carlton bar (and their 36 inch) comes in a .050 gauge, but in general (Oregon, Stihl) bars longer than 32 are easier to find in .063 except for Canon. I buy my chain by the reel, and run .063 full skip square for my longer bars. I have both .050 and .063 32 inch bars, but I now wish I had planned ahead more and stuck to one gauge above 28 inch. Up through 28 inch I usually run full comp .050.

Bottom line is over time I have more money tied up in chain than bars, so I could have simplified my life a little had I planned ahead with the gauge. Not that big a deal, just thought I'd mention it in case it helped you plan better than I did.
 
I wanted to give a more clear example of what I mean in terms of gauge.


Since I run both .050 and .063 gauge 32 inch bars, and I typically have at least 7-8 chains of each size, I have to have chains for each bar cause they are different sizes. Extra cost and complexity. Since I run lots of sized bars and both huskies and stihls which don't use the same number of drive links for certain bar sizes (like 28 inch bars) I already have more chains to deal with than I would like.

If I could do it over again I would have picked 32 inch bars and up in the same gauge. But deals that that Carlton are difficult to resist. Wish they had a 50 inch. Want one real bad but don't want to lay out $250 for a Canon (Woodsman pro). And to use my same reels and to be able to use my grinders as is I would probably opt for a 3/8 instead of a .404 on a 50 inch even though it would be geared a bit taller than ideal.
 
B_Turner said:
Bottom line is over time I have more money tied up in chain than bars, so I could have simplified my life a little had I planned ahead with the gauge. Not that big a deal, just thought I'd mention it in case it helped you plan better than I did.

Amen!

It's the silly stuff like that that ends up costin' ya AND annoying ya. My 28" Stihl bars are 91dl .050, my 28" Dolmar is 93dl .050, and my 25" big-mount Stihl is 91dl .063. Shoot, if I had it all to do over again the Dolmar would run a Stihl-mount bar adapter and share bars with the 066 and 044, and all of 'em would run .063. That way I'd only have to keep 1 type of loop around instead of three (and if I wanted to run a mix of skip and full-comp, that number would be greater still).

Live and learn, I guess.
 
CaseyForrest said:
Rims and spurs dont care about gauge (.50, .58, or .63) Just pitch.

If you are running 3/8, than you can run 3/8 as many drivers as you want.

I think what you are referring to is either a 7 tooth rim or 8 tooth rim. On a 28" bar on the 361youll want to stick to the 7 tooth. On shorter bars, say 16" to 20" you can step up to an 8 tooth rim to get some chain speed. But keep in mind any increase in chain speed is a decrease in useable torque.
My wood is mainly birch.

I use 7 pin exclusively with the 18" bar on my 361, and 7 or 8 with the 15", depending on the application.

If you use 18 - 20" bars for limbing, it may be OK with 8 pin, but definately not for full bar cuts, or anything close to it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top