Need help with door gasket--OWB

[jlromine76]

Hey guys I am hoping you might know of a good product to repair the gasket on my Shaver OWB. My unit is about 4 years old and I replaced the flexible sealant style it had on it this Fall with a new rope gasket which I thought would make a good seal...that and I didn't know what else to use so I went to the old TSC. The rope gasket seemed like a good choice since it has been around for years but I am not getting a good seal and its letting in more air than I am used to. What product would you guys recommend using that will stay flexible but create a better seal? I know my choices are limited this time of year due to curing of the product in low temps and the fact the boiler is running 24/7. We have a few warmer days coming (40ish) so I am considering shutting it down but only if I know I can get something that can make a good tight seal. Thanks for any and all suggestions you guys have.

 

[benp]

Maybe get a larger diameter rope gasket? I think they come in 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8" if my memory serves me correct.

I just use RTV red to adhere the gasket to the door. That works just fine for me. The heat from the stove cures the RTV.

 

[H-Ranch]

A friend of a friend used a high temperature silicone in a channel around the door on his home-built OWB. Filled it in and let it cure so it is slightly compressed with the door closed. Last I heard it was working famously for several years in a row.

I have to remove rope gasket on my door and reorient it every other season or so after it gets too compressed. 3/4" and larger rope is available, but you may not find it in stock at your local store. If your door doesn't have any adjustment you may get away with spacing the rope gasket with steel strips or other appropriate material so it makes better contact.

 

[fixit1960]

I replace mine about every 2 years. Usually in the summer when it's off and has plenty of time to cure. My door on the heatmor has a deep channel all the way around. I dig out the flexible sealant and check the rope gasket underneath. As long it is intact and well formed with out any seared spots I rough it up with a die grinder and soft wire wheel to remove the carbon and blackening. If I need to I can cut out bad sections and use door gasket cement to anchor the new rope sections. After that has set then I lay in the high temperature red silicone sealant. I use a putty knife to smooth and shape it into the channel and ensure it is "worked" into the rope underneath. This helps hold it and reinforce it. There are times when I open my door and it takes a tug to get it to break open. That's when it could damage and tear the sealant. I let it cure at least 24 hrs but as benp mentioned in an emergency it could set and be workable in 2 to 4 hours. Depends on how thick you lay it in. I would not want to go more than 3/16 or a 1/4 inch thick and expect it to cure in less than 4 hours.

I have found when refilling the stove, before I close the door I always take a putty knife and scrape the metal jamb completely clean and wipe the flexible sealing surface to remove and clingons. Swipe the sealant area with a gloved hand or finger to remove any creosote or carbon.. That helps prevent sticking and tearing the seal.

Good luck

 

[greendohn]

dig the old out and chunk some 3/4 to 1 inch in there with some sealant.
Use the red stuff or "stove gasket sealant", usually grey stuff,,,,it comes with the rope kits at the hardware store,,
It aint rocket science, out with the old, in with the new,,