Need help with repair project on Jotul F600 Firelight - inside guts of stove

[RichUncle]

Although I just joined the site today in order to post this question, I hope to be able to add a lot more in the years to come.

I need to replace the secondary burn tube assembly, baffle plates, and insulating blanket in a Jotul F600 Firelight stove. The model I have is one where the top does not open, so I am looking to go about it from the front doors.

I was able to remove the old baffle plates and insulating blanket by pulling them down through the tubes of the secondary burn assembly. Got the whole thing vacuumed out as best I can and was just about to loosen the bolts that seem to be holding the assembly in place when that little voice inside my head said, "Go ask the fine folks at ArborSite first." (Knowing that bad things usually happen when I ignore that voice, I decided to come on here and see if anyone has any experience or wisdom to share first.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.
I have the parts already and it seems very straight forward. That is, until I actually gear up to get started, then it's a little daunting as I haven't done a repair like this before.

Exploded view diagram here: http://www.jotul.com/FileArchive/Te...relight CB/Exploded_view_F_600_P02_240304.pdf

We are basically looking at the secondary air manifold assembly/burn tubes as illustrated in the circled thing labelled "100" and the two baffle plates + insulating blanket. The assembly is all one piece.

Do the baffle plates really just sit on top of the tubes, or is there another way to install them?

 

[Sierra99]

Baffle plates sit right on the tubes

Do the baffle plates really just sit on top of the tubes, or is there another way to install them?

the baffle plates just sit right on top of the tubes. I have the Oslo model with top access plate. The two plates are identical, with matching over/underlaps at their junction. The outboard ends of the plates don't quite touch the manifolds. The fit of these two plates isn't real precise but it doesn't need to be. They're just chunks'o'iron that heat up to provide thermal buffering, downward infrared radiation to keep the secondary burn cycle functioning. they also force all gas/smoke and flame around to the sides to provide some room for the secondary burn to do its thing. Good luck with the overhaul. My Oslo is going on 10 years old, runs great, 5 to 6 cords per year, never had a problem. I think these stoves are the best design going.

 

[logbutcher]

The Oslo and Firelight non-cats are assembled near the same. For awhile when we got the Oslo ~ 5 years ago I would crack the ash door for quick starts than let the stove overheat.....DON"T ! The top plate developed a small crack in the rear. Jotul sent a new one that was finally installed this summer.

From the schematic diagram of your Firelight, there are bolts that hold the top plate to the stove, easy to remove IF they're not frozen (PB Blaster works well ) . It's easier to do the burn tubes, baffle, and blanket with the top off. Replace the top plate gasket. Easier to place the top back on with two: it is a PITA to do it alone since it needs to be centered on the stove with the gasket married to the side, front , and rear plates.

You'll never do this again. Good luck ...and welcome.

BTW: Jotul HQ here in Portland, Maine for North America has an 800# and excellent tech support if you need it. Many dealers don't do these kind of repairs.