Needed MODS for 026 Pro

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Super saw Jim3

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Gentlemen:

I am need of some serious advice on mods for a Sthil 026 Pro. This saw is about 7 years old and has been used very little. I would guess about 5 hours of use.

If you could point to some threads or ideas for some mods, that would increase the performance, I would appreciate it.

You see the goal is to whip my father in a sawing contest once and for all !! His Super XL vs my 026 Pro. So it is a large saw vs my smaller saw.

Every thing is stock including the chain. I run bar sizes from 14" - 20" and it seems to like the 16" bar the best.

Hey dad, watch out, I'm coming for you!


THANKS,

Super Saw Jim3

Remember: if you set your standards low enough, you will always achive your goals!
 
Open up the muffler, adjust the carb richer on the H and L settings, and put some chisel chain on that thing. a SHARP chisel chain will cut very well when its set properly. just do what is suggested, and that old SXL is gonna lose for sure.
 
start by trading the pro in for a regular 026. i have found the pro does not take the mods as well as the plain 026. marty
 
An 026 ought to give a Super XL a run for the money with no mods. It's only about 7cc's bigger. Just make sure you race in under 8" wood, then the rpms of the Stihl will win hands down. And make sure you run a razor sharp chisel chain, and maybe run his saw in the dirt a little when he's not looking.
 
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i haven't had that many 026pro's, 6 maybe 7. all of them broke up at top-end. opening the muffler was no help. i have had at least 10 026's. they stay in the power on top-end. opening the muffler only helped. they breath much better. maybe it was just us here that found the regular 026 to be better saws. i'll dig up the time cuts and post them. the 026pro was noticeably behind. marty
 
That is strange, they do use different cylinders since the pro has decompression. I did not think there was any power difference.Any 026 will run good for its size stock, I dont reccomend extreme muffler mods unless you don't mind making it louder.
 
Assuming that the only functional difference between the basic engine assemblies is the presence/absence of a decomp valve in the cylinder (which <i>is</i> currently the case, right?), if I were making them, I'd use exactly the same casting for the cylinders but merely omit the two steps of drilling and tapping the hole for the pop-on valve.&nbsp; There would inevitably be a (very) minor difference in compression ratio between any given examples of the two models.&nbsp; Would you think the valve would <i>increase</i> or <i>decrease</i> the value?&nbsp; Would it be much different than the typical variation from unit to unit within the same model?

Statistically there probably is a very minor difference, but I'd think it would not be worth the effort to determine just what it might ultimately be and that in normal use you'd not be able to tell which you were using if you couldn't see it.

Glen
 
I think he's been sucking down too many 2 cycle fumes by running his 026 in an enclosed space. The cylinders are dimensionally the exact same cylinder. Only that the pro is machined to accept the decompression valve.

I know a couple of people that work at STIHL here at Virginia Beach and they confirmed that it IS the EXACT same cylinder. One is machined for the valve. One isn't.


On MODs.

Gut out the muffler and open the muffler exhaust port to about 75 to 80 percent of the cylinder exhaust port area, but no more. Too much seems to have a detrimental effect. Then adjust your high speed jet till it "burbles" then come back about a quarter of a turn. You are now done with the Mod. This should be an extremely noticable difference in responce and power. It was with my 260 PRO.
 
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if you really want to be sure you beat him.. dozer dan or ehp ,dave niegra if he does those saws..these men can give you lots o power exstra.im sure heres others here can do the same..dan did my mods.. the saw was much stronger and held torque at higher rpm..also consider an 95 vp cut setup[50 gauge rather than o63]..smooth an fast.. different strokes an all.
 
ok, the cylinders are the same. that's good. what other differances are there that makes one a plain jane and one a pro? the pro has intellicarb. maybe that is why it breaks up at full r.p.m. ? don't know.
i am not making statements based on comments of others or something i read in a book. i tested them side-by-side, posting what i found. sorry if it hurts so many's feelings. if some one can also test them together or break them down together and find the reason or if in fact there is no differance, post it. nobody has done that yet. just made comments. if someone does take the time to test them, test two of each. also, make sure the carb. settings are factory, use the same size rim and try to use the same chain on all 4 saws. use the same size dimension timber. i use 8"x8".
if the 026pro out cut the 026, that would be what a run in the stock class.

8x8 spruce,.325,7 tooth rim,all factory settings,full chisel, 1 cut
026pro 5.46,5.59,5.49
026 4.19,4.49,4.17

marty
 
Intellicarb has absolutely no influence whatsoever if the filter is clean and in fact, it's merely a restoration of the system that every saw of old had when its carb was mounted inside the airbox behind the filter, such as the venerable Homelite Super EZ and XL.

If you were using "factory" settings on the carbs that was likely the major reason for the difference, since they are not tuned for peak performance when new.&nbsp; Another possible factor could be that one saw had not yet gotten enough run-time to achieve it's full capability yet.&nbsp; We can only speculate.

The differences between them have varied over time but currently it pretty much amounts to the compression release and adjustable oiler, so far as I understand it.

You think nobody's broken them down and compared them?&nbsp; You ought to take Wayne's (stihltech) word on it when he says there's no internal differences; I'm quite certain he's had one or two (dozen) of them apart!

Glen
 
Unless you degreed the port timing, there could be some difference there that you would not see unless that is what you were looking for. I am not saying that is the case, but are the cylinders from the same production run and controls and the Pro merely drilled and tapped for the CR.
 
this is just a idea, get a tack , tack both saws to the same rpm, we will say 14000 rpm's , then try the saws, you should see them cut the same or very close, use the same bar and chain, it sounds more to me that the one saw is richer than the other
 
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