Just bought a Laser chainsaw sharpener
Reg price was $219.00 on for $110
Reg price was $219.00 on for $110
New Chainsaw Sharpener
- Thread starter Marine5068
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I haven't tried it yet as I had to work a double 12 hr shift. I'll trey it out on Friday and get some pics to post and some opinions. I know there's some learning curve so I'll try to tap you guys brains on these and see what's already written about them before I try it out.
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Great price. Once you figure it out, you can almost toss the files. I can grind my chains factory sharp in a few minutes. Now that it is so easy, after every saw use I do a quick sharpening session.
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I bought same thing. Oregon clone. See on feebay $125. Use it a lot. Bulb burned out and couldn't find good match. PM if you have parts address and number.
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Yeah, they are pretty much all the same. For the weekend warrior, or the 8 to 10 cords a year, a clone is plenty of tool. If you running a shop and grind sharpen a few chains a day then put out the dough for a Oregon.
Same grinder as the Northerntool roughneck and about the same price. Same clone as I use. One thing to look out for, instructions for assembly and use pretty much aint in the box. One thing I learnt right quick while assembling mine. Dont loosen the big knob on the bottom any more than you have to. If you separate the bottom section from the base, there are two little BB's and springs that will fall out. They are there to lock the vise into the 10degree angle for full chisel chain sharpening. Also, the angle finder n the top of my machine isnt exactly true. One scale on front will read one angle and the scale on the back will read another. I set mine using a new chain and the back indicator reads 55* and the front one reads about 51*. I use a 51/30/10 setting for sharpening full chisel chains, 51/30/0 for semi chisel chains. Another thing you might have to tinker with is the chain stop. Mine wouldnt stay tight while grinding and I removed the plastic knob and added a nylon lock nut adjusted to keep the stop centered on the chain. I also had to add a couple of washers for the guide rails. The bolts that hold the guide rails together have a couple of bushings to keep the rails properly spaced, mine wouldnt allow the rails to close enough to hold the chain tight. I took 2 washers and drilled them out so the bushing would slide thru them. I then added the washers to the outside bolts and it lets the rails close up like they should. Also forget adding a reverse direction switch to the clone. the motor is a three wire instead of a 4wire like the true oregon grinders. A switch can still be added, but it requires complete disassembly of the motor, a little electrical know how and the ability to soldier wires. I just chuck a 5mm allen wrench in my drill and use it to spend the motor backwards before turning it on. The motor will run backwards which helps cut down on burrs on the chain when sharpening the opposite side of the chain. Turn the motor off and let it stop turning and then turn it back on and it will again turn in correct direction.
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muddstopper -- I had used the 10degree initially on my full chisel chains and didn't notice much or any difference in cutting. I'll have to try again since it's been awhile.
Motor running in reverse. Interesting. Can you point to a site that can explain the how to do something like this? Thanks!
Motor running in reverse. Interesting. Can you point to a site that can explain the how to do something like this? Thanks!
How about this one, http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/page-3, and http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/reversing-a-hf-grinder-3-wire-ac-motor.181620/ it tells how to reverse the Oregon as well as the NT grinders.
Also when using the 10* you have to make sure you keep your rakers filed. If you take to much off the tooth with the grinder, the rakers will have to be filed or they wont cut
Also when using the 10* you have to make sure you keep your rakers filed. If you take to much off the tooth with the grinder, the rakers will have to be filed or they wont cut
I always handfile after a day of cutting and have had good success with it. Whenever I rocked a chain I would take it in to get sharpened. Over a few years I had accumulated 3 chains that needed to be sharpened due to unintentional mishaps. Wasn't much tooth left on them, and I found a HF coupon for their sharpener-so I figured I'd give it a shot. It would of cost me $24 to get them done anyway. Totally messed up the first chain. After figuring out what I did wrong I did the other two, and they threw chips quite nicely. I still hand file, but for the occasional rocked chain it was well worth the $ spent. Can't say anything more expensive would have been worth my while.
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I keep one of these https://www.google.com/search?q=Sti...=-y3MV8eTNMv8mAGh-4D4BQ#imgrc=o5cOTiAiyN1EJM: with me when I am in the woods. Easy to use, fast, and keeps the rakers where they should be. If I have a rocked chain, the grinder is the only way to go, but if it takes a lot of grinding to get the tooth back in shape, I will hit it again with the file to get rid of the burrs and to set the rakers. Only takes a couple of strokes and worth the extra time per chain. I have also used the similar system made by Husquvarna, but I like the Sthil system better. Only thing is you have to have different filing systems for different size chains, but all my saws run 3/8 chain so it isnt a big issue for me.
