New guy needs axe

[s1dooley]

Hi i'm new to arbory (and the site) and I am looking for a good axe that will last me for a long time. I've done some research and almost settled on a Kelly Perfect Dayton or Michigan (not sure what the difference is) but I also just found this company online called "Council Tool" . they seem to make some good stuff but hard to tell based on a picture. I'm interested in their Jersey Pattern axe. has anyone had any experience with the Council tool axes or can you make any recomendations? P.S. I don't have the money for a Gransfurd Burks axe or I would get that in a second. Thanks! :greenchainsaw:

 

[mndlawn]

Gransfors Bruks is the only way to go if you want a superior ax. If your going to spend the money might as well get the best. Just my opinion. Their are deals out there, you just have to look.

Edit: Their is only a $40-50 difference between the Jersey Ax and the GB Scandinavian Forest Ax

 

[RUBE]

Les Paul or a Fender maybe a Gibson

 

[rarefish383]

Les Paul or a Fender maybe a Gibson

Allways wanted a Stratocaster with a Telecaster neck. Oh, wrong kind of Ax?

You didn't mention what you wanted your ax for. I collect old double bit axes. I have Kelly's, Plumb, American Beauty, etc. I only use them for throwing or to hang on the wall.

If you're just splitting fire wood a Tru Value Hardware 3 1/2 lb ax will be fine. Get a 6 or 8 lb maul to bust the big stuff. I bought a maul from Sothern States with a fiber glass handle for my nephew. Seems every hickory handle he got was rotten and the head broke off. Go figure, any way, the blade had way too much bevel, and would bounce before it would split, had to grind it to a less beveled, finer edge.

Sure, the big name brands are better. I would say, stay away from the gimmick axes. The ones with toggles, that make the wood explode apart. Even monster mauls aren't for me. They work, but after using one for 10 minutes my back is done. Good luck, Joe.

 

[AT sawyer]

If you're going to buy one off the rack, make sure the handle is straight, the wood grain is parallel with the bit and the head aligns with the handle. Sight down a few and you'll see what I mean. Most factory axes are too blunt. Pick up a file while your at the store and work the cheeks down when you get it home.

I buy all my axe heads on Ebay and rehandle them myself. Although GB makes fantastic axes, the factory handles are too thick and inflexible for me, and require some stock removal to make them a little springier.

Check these two links for an afternoon of information:

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/99232823/index.htm

http://blueandwhitecrew.org/resources/tips/sharpeningaxes.php#sharpeningbyhand

 

[John Ellison]

AT Sawyer, those are great links. Hanging an axe head has become a lost art and the second link about reprofiling/beveling/polishing a head is especially interesting. I bookmarked them and plan to check them out later. Thanks.

 

[AT sawyer]

If someone plans to use an axe for more than splitting wood or beating wedges, it's helpful to have it properly hung and filed. Then you have to be careful who you lend it to, as it will almost always come back chipped or damaged. Axes and saws have the same mantra: keep them out of the dirt, keep them out of the dirt.............

 

[ozzy42]

Les Paul or a Fender maybe a Gibson

:rockn:

 

[isaaccarlson]

I picked one up at Harbor Freight a while ago...$30

I was walking down the aisle and it caught my eye. Picked it up and looked at it. It has a forged head, hickory handle, and feels awesome. I eyed it up and decided it was going home with me! it is the best single-bit axe I have ever had. I would still like a double bit....I miss those.... I do not like fiberglass handles. I have on on my splitting axe and it flexes WAY too much. I just wish my splitting axe was forged!!!! It is cast. Needless to say I am on my second one. Probably not worth putting a wood handle on it..... I don't know where HF got that axe but if you have one nearby, it might be a good idea to go have a look.

 

[EdenT]

I may have misread your post but....

...you were getting married in a place called 'Harbour Freight' but went home with an axe instead of a wife?

Man that's dedication.

 

[HitchC&L]

Ive got 5 or 6 "Snow and Nealley" axes, including the hatchet that I wear on my belt when felling.

They are made in Bangor Maine, good quality.

Im going to buy their double bit as soon as I get around to it.

 

[treemandan]

Estwing

Makes a smaller single bit. Little bigger than a hatchet a little smaller than an axe, got Estwing all over it. You can hit stuff with the other side. I don't know if its against ansi but you can easily swing, aim, hit and hold on to it with one hand.

 

[AT sawyer]

Snow and Nealley

I'm not looking to knock a particular manufacturer, but recent S&N axes do not seem to be made to the same high quality as their earlier products. I work with a guy who grinds axes semi-professionally and is very meticulous with his bevel angles. The same grind that held an edge on his Tuatahi and Granfors axes folded on his new S&N DB under the same conditions (chopping white oak and black locust). Tough trees, but if I have to avoid certain species or risk damaging my axe, I think I'll use an axe that's up to the task.

Anyone else have an issue with a recent S&N? Perhaps my buddy just got a poorly tempered head.

 

[HitchC&L]

All of my axes, with the exception of the hatchet I carry on my side, and possibly one other axe, are older models.

I havent had an issue with the hatchet yet, but then again Its not very old and I havent used it much, mainly for driving felling wedges.

I do know that they made a MUCH cheaper sheath on the new ones, so I wouldnt be surprised if the axe quality has gone down too. I have mostly old ones, and the quality is there, so maybe Im not the one to ask about the newer ones.