New Makita cordless chainsaw chain keeps coming off

[dev]

Makita 16" battery chainsaw chain came off two of the three times I used the new saw. Narrow gauge .043 bar, 3/8" pitch, 56 links. Never had this problem with old B & D gas saw. Does the narrow kerf chain or the thinner guide bar contribute to chains jumping track? When I tried to put chain back on after the second time it came off, the chain links had to be forced at one place on guide bar, so I could have bent the bar track. But that doesn't explain why it was jumping track the first two times. Any experience with this problem with narrow gauge bars and narrow chains?

 

[jefflovstrom]

Either you have a kink in the chain that causes incorrect adjustment, or the chain is just coming loose. Try a new bar and see if that works.
Jeff
It was a beautiful day!

 

[uniballer]

I have seen bars and chains dinged up enough to cause further problems after throwing a chain because it is loose. Check your bar and chain carefully to see if one or the other (or both) are the problem. Sometimes you can file things back into shape, but you might need to replace the bar or chain.

 

[dev]

Thanks guys. Tried two chains and both bind at one spot on bar, so will replace bar. Still trying to find answer from anyone who has used a thin bar and chain to see if those factors can cause chain to fly more than with thicker bar and chain.

 

[Franny K]

I do not think the 0.043 de rails for me easier,. The cutters are smaller. Less force but more stretchy chasis.

The bar is kind of narrow. Probably a section too straight. Which model? Lubricate threads on adjuster. Pull out on the bar and wiggle while pushing on the little paddles. Convert to Stihl bar and chain if significant use is expected and intend on staying with 3/8 lp 0.043. Try the 0.050 guage stuff on a 9 tooth nose.

 

[dev]

Newest 16 inch makita cordless. Don't know model number. I'm sorry for not being able to understand some of the things you are saying: " stretchy chasis; section too straight." ??

 

[Franny K]

This one has enough curve, the 14 inch one has the chain come off to the point it is not available for a picture it is kind of straight in the section near the Oregon brand name if I recall correctly.

take a caliper to the tie straps of the old b+d chain and these ones.

 

[softdown]

Lots of experience with those spindly 16" .043 chains here. They also pop off on Milwaukee's - all too easily. A tight chain helps and batteries have the power to overcome the increased friction.

But for serious use? I replace them with 14" .050 chains and bars. This will decrease pop offs by at least 75% in my experience. Much less spindly combo.

 

[Franny K]

The little single battery top handle is the only Battery Makita I have used the original bar. The Stihl bar gets wide real soon and they put the oil input spot back there. Plenty of space to make a new oiler hole but not if fitting brand x to Stihl.

That saw I assume you mean the double battery rear handle one, is so massive the larger and heavier 0.050 and 9 tooth nose seem more applicable and suitable for the forces the bar attachment seems up to in my opinion.

 

[dev]

Softdown, just to clarify, you're saying I can replace the Makita .043 bar with a .050 gauge bar on the same saw? If it will cut chain jump by 75%, I will do it. Franny K, yes it is the double battery (18V each) saw.

 

[softdown]

Softdown, just to clarify, you're saying I can replace the Makita .043 bar with a .050 gauge bar on the same saw? If it will cut chain jump by 75%, I will do it. Franny K, yes it is the double battery (18V each) saw.

Yes - exactly what I meant. This is the one I purchased and am happy with: https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-27856-AdvanceCut-Chainsaw-Craftsman/dp/B00004RA72/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=14"+chainsaw+bar+and+chain+oregon&qid=1604334173&sr=8-3

I believe that the 14" bar also helps reduce chain jumping - it is less spindly.

It seems like bars are either Stihl compatible - or compatible with the rest. Just don't get a Stihl bar.