New Member - Long Bar Question

[GitWood]

Hi all. I've been lurking here for years but never really had a question that hadn't already been asked and answered here. I finally decided to go ahead and register. I have also noticed lately that sincere questions from novices have been answered with some great advice. I have seen times in the past when they would been chewed up and spit out. Maybe that has something to do with me finally registering. Anyway, here is my question. I recently purchased a Solo 694 and several different bars and chains (long story). One of these is a 42" Power Match Plus with full comp .404 chain. If given a choice, I would have preferred 3/8 full skip. I will rarely use this bar (maybe once per year). Would it be worth the trouble and cost for me to ebay the chain, change the nose sprocket, and buy the 3/8 chain? If the setup that I have now will work reasonably well, I am inclined to keep it, but I really have no Idea. I have no experience with anything this big and wish that I could decide if a different chain would be better, before mine becomes used. I would welcome any advice.

 

[a_lopa]

i would definently do it if the $$$ dont bother you.

 

[NWCS]

full comp 42" .404 chain? i would sell it and go 3/8 full skip, with a bar that long thats a heck of alot of weight and drag. with 3/8 full skip it will feel like a diffrent saw, a happy saw! probly cut faster since you would be able to keep the RPM up alot easier.

 

[coveredinsap]

I would imagine that manufacturers put .404 chains on big saws for a reason....they hold up better under work loads and are less likely to break.

Bottom line...if you work with your saw, stick with the .404....but if you play with your saw, i.e. timed cutting competitions, etc., then go with the 3/8.

 

[SmokinDodge]

Welcome Gitwood! You will receive alot of good information from the knowledgeable members here. Keep in mind, while there is a vast collection of knowledge on AS, that not everyone here knows what they are talking about.
:stupid:

 

[chowdozer]

Gitwood, disregard sap's advice.
He's running one of these and in a league all by himself.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Welcome! I to vote for 3/8. I run it on everything up to 36". I even use 3/8 for milling, and have noticed no stretch, and milling heats things up quickly.

Other than the 260, which I use .325

 

[oldsaw]

I would. I got two 36" bars when I bought my 066, one was a 3/8" Oregon which became my milling bar, the other was a .404 Stihl, which I changed the tip on and made into a 3/8. It's a 15 minute project.

You have the bar, and you never know when you need a long bar. This way you could have one for pretty cheap. Buy a loop from Bailey's. Great service and a site sponsor. They should even have the new tip for you.

Mark

 

[coveredinsap]

My understanding of the question is that in order to change his saw from .404 to 3/8, he's also got to replace the drive sprocket on the saw, not just the bar nose sprocket.

 

[Freakingstang]

My understanding of the question is that in order to change his saw from .404 to 3/8, he's also got to replace the drive sprocket on the saw, not just the bar nose sprocket.

That is correct, but at a whopping 5 bucks full retail at a husky dealer or 4 dollars at a stihl dealer, I wouldn't consider the rim sprocket to be a major undertaking or costly part to change......

 

[GitWood]

Thanks guys, for all of the info. You have confirmed what I suspected, but without first-hand experience, it's nice to hear from someone who knows. BTW, I already have a new 3/8 sprocket nose laying around. Had it as a spare. I also have the 3/8 rim sprocket. The saw came with both. It just comes down to sell the chain, buy a new one, and change the sprocket nose. Any tricks or gotchas to changing the nose? It looks pretty straight forward, but then again, I have never done it.

Thanks Again,
Mark

 

[Lakeside53]

0.404 works really well if you are in big softwoods and have a saw with a LOTs of torque. The older generation (090, 051, 075/76 etc) work really well with 0.404 as you are limited in top end engine speed, but have gobs mid range torque, so you can take big bites.

Lot of guys around here use full comp 0.404 on the big saws - 088, 084, and some on the 066 (mainly skip). Some swear by it when milling big cedar.

Most 066 locally are 3/8 0.050. Personally, on a long bar I'd go with 3/8 .063. The Stihl 0.063 chain has a hole (in addition to the groove) in the tang to carry more oil around the tip (i.e., keep it with the chain and get some back to the sprocket).

As for changing the tip, there are no issues... partially drill out the rivit head and punch them though.

 

[Lawn Masters]

It looks straight forward, and it IS as simple as just knocking out the old rivit(s) and replacing the tip, peen the new rivits, and you're done.