New ms250 want to go from 18'' bar to 16'' bar

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CUCVJeepJoe

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I have a new ms250 stihl saw with an 18'' bar and would like to go down to a 16'' bar. From what i've read the 18'' bar/chain is .325 .063 68 link. would a 16 inch bar be .325 .063 62 link? the saw has a seven point drive gear. Also what would be a good chain and bar set up other than stihl. This current is the rollermaticE bar with the green chain. seems like the oiling hole for the bar is super tiny (it gets gunked up with the slightest bit of debris, will prob drill the hole a little bigger)

I am just cutting wood up to 18'' for a little firewood to burn during the winter (Usually burn coal). I'm not really happy with the oiling problem and figured I'd try a different set up (as well as try drilling the oiling hole larger on an angle for the 18'' bar)

my other saw (don't laugh) is a poulan woodshark (got it for free) and i've beat the piss out of that thing with little to no problems.

from what i've read on here it seems like the ms250 likes a smaller bar setup. I'd like to get chain that's a bit more aggressive.

Sorry if this post is redundant. I appreciate your patient and any help you could offer.
 
I have a new ms250 stihl saw with an 18'' bar and would like to go down to a 16'' bar. From what i've read the 18'' bar/chain is .325 .063 68 link. would a 16 inch bar be .325 .063 62 link? the saw has a seven point drive gear. Also what would be a good chain and bar set up other than stihl. This current is the rollermaticE bar with the green chain. seems like the oiling hole for the bar is super tiny (it gets gunked up with the slightest bit of debris, will prob drill the hole a little bigger)

I am just cutting wood up to 18'' for a little firewood to burn during the winter (Usually burn coal). I'm not really happy with the oiling problem and figured I'd try a different set up (as well as try drilling the oiling hole larger on an angle for the 18'' bar)

my other saw (don't laugh) is a poulan woodshark (got it for free) and i've beat the piss out of that thing with little to no problems.

from what i've read on here it seems like the ms250 likes a smaller bar setup. I'd like to get chain that's a bit more aggressive.

Sorry if this post is redundant. I appreciate your patient and any help you could offer.
. Ever try filing rakers?
 
A Stihl 16 inch bar uses a a 62 link chain in .325 pitch.
It would be easiest to stick to Stihl bar and chain, as a 16 inch Oregon
bar will actually require a longer chain, the bars are simply measured
differently by Stihl and Oregon, so don’t always use the same chain lengths.

If you stick with the 16 inch Stihl bar, you at least know you need a chain
with 62 links, Carlton Oregon, Stihl and Woodland pro-which is Carlton
are all good choices, they offer full or semi chisel, safety and non safety
versions, Semi Chisel seems to handle dirty wood better suffering less
than full Chisel regarding staying sharp a while longer.

Some people change their saws to run 3/8 Low pro chain, less teeth to pull
and less weight to spin up too, but that costs as your current drive sprocket and bar
would need changing to suit 3/8 Stihl PS chain, which is Full Chisel non safety type,
PS3 is the same Stihl chain but with bumpers to help with kickback.
 
A Stihl 16 inch bar uses a a 62 link chain in .325 pitch.
It would be easiest to stick to Stihl bar and chain, as a 16 inch Oregon
bar will actually require a longer chain, the bars are simply measured
differently by Stihl and Oregon, so don’t always use the same chain lengths.

If you stick with the 16 inch Stihl bar, you at least know you need a chain
with 62 links, Carlton Oregon, Stihl and Woodland pro-which is Carlton
are all good choices, they offer full or semi chisel, safety and non safety
versions, Semi Chisel seems to handle dirty wood better suffering less
than full Chisel regarding staying sharp a while longer.

Some people change their saws to run 3/8 Low pro chain, less teeth to pull
and less weight to spin up too, but that costs as your current drive sprocket and bar
would need changing to suit 3/8 Stihl PS chain, which is Full Chisel non safety type,
PS3 is the same Stihl chain but with bumpers to help with kickback.

ah ok thanks. Yeah I'll probably just get a stihl 16'' bar thanks !
 
I have an MS 250 with the 18" bar I bought about a year ago.Don't use it full bar often since I have an MS 362 for that size wood but I've had little to no oiling problems.Before you spend the extra cash,compare the oil hole in your bar with a new one to see if they are the same diameter.Should be.If you haven't,make sure the groove in your bar is clean and not restricting the flow. Might also take the bar and chain off and run he saw to make sure the oiler is working,if you haven't.
It's your saw and decision.Also your money but I'd check these first.
I also admit I like a longer bar than some do.Run a 20" on my 362.
 
Doesn't really matter if you go with Stihl or Oregon for bar and chain, they are both good. And to the comments by @Whinbush I don't think that is actually correct about more drive links on this specific case, the Oregon 16" bars for this saw are 62DL. In some cases they may have 1-2 more DL though.

$60 Amazon Prime, you can buy Oregon 578779 kit which is a 16" bar and chain combo. .325 .063 chain.

If you are open to a non low-kickback chain, you can individually buy a bar and chain. Oregon 22LPX062G chain and 163SLBA074 or 163PXLBA074 bar. I like LPX chain in the .325 class, it cuts very fast.

Does not matter if you change from .063 to .050 when moving to a new bar since they use the same sprocket both being .325. I would buy whichever is cheaper or available. Check out the Oregon parts finder here to look at the right numbers, you can turn on .050 size as well.
 
I think the stihl bars are a bit tougher then Oregon.
Get a 16inch .325 bar would be simplist.
Good deals on Oregon chain on the internet. I have extra .325 Oregon but shipping might not make it cost effective 1 or 2 chains.
Filing the rakers down a little makes the chain more aggressive. If you go to the smaller picco bar, chain, sprocket set up it does seem to give the saw some more zip through the wood. Not hard switching sprockets, just a c clip and the time, + the sprocket cost. Picco bar might be a couple bucks less. Picco chain isn't as tough and usually doesn't last as long as .325 but it is easier to maintain cutter sharpness being less teeth to sharpen.
 
I have a new ms250 stihl saw with an 18'' bar and would like to go down to a 16'' bar. From what i've read the 18'' bar/chain is .325 .063 68 link. would a 16 inch bar be .325 .063 62 link? the saw has a seven point drive gear. Also what would be a good chain and bar set up other than stihl. This current is the rollermaticE bar with the green chain. seems like the oiling hole for the bar is super tiny (it gets gunked up with the slightest bit of debris, will prob drill the hole a little bigger)

I am just cutting wood up to 18'' for a little firewood to burn during the winter (Usually burn coal). I'm not really happy with the oiling problem and figured I'd try a different set up (as well as try drilling the oiling hole larger on an angle for the 18'' bar)

my other saw (don't laugh) is a poulan woodshark (got it for free) and i've beat the piss out of that thing with little to no problems.

from what i've read on here it seems like the ms250 likes a smaller bar setup. I'd like to get chain that's a bit more aggressive.

Sorry if this post is redundant. I appreciate your patient and any help you could offer.
We have a chainsaw thread to post all questions on.
 
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