MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
I found a new pulley for hitch climbing on Freeworker Germany, looks good 
anyone seen this before?
anyone seen this before?
New Pulley
- Thread starter MAG58
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Climb020
ArboristSite Operative
Just came out this month. Waiting for mine to come in the mail. I got to fiddle with it a little at the expo. A very well made pulley. Much better quality then the micro-s from CMI.
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
Climb020 said:
Who is producing this pulley's
looks nice
what is wrong with just using this method? i think it is just making things more complex and getting people 2 spend more money than needed. can this be used 4 something other than a climbing hitch?
what is wrong with just using this method? i think it is just making things more complex and getting people 2 spend more money than needed. can this be used 4 something other than a climbing hitch?
Jim1NZ
ArboristSite Guru
Mm nice.
A lot of the top guys are climbing on this system.
I tried it and didn't really get into it. The prussic is behind your knot/dead end of the DRT system so you have to reach around to get to the prussic, and i reckon its easy to grab both ropes at once by accident.
The eye splice on my VT was rubbing on the rope and burnt it a little too.
I dont think its that hot at all.
A lot of the top guys are climbing on this system.
I tried it and didn't really get into it. The prussic is behind your knot/dead end of the DRT system so you have to reach around to get to the prussic, and i reckon its easy to grab both ropes at once by accident.
The eye splice on my VT was rubbing on the rope and burnt it a little too.
I dont think its that hot at all.
JohN Dee
ArboristSite Operative
Wow that is a dam hot pulley... I want one lol. What's the RRP on one of those?
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
(WLL) said:
You use a pulley don't you? This new one look better then any other's that I'v seen.
:greenchainsaw:
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
MAG58 said:
There are a few hitches that use a marl like twist for slack-tending instead of the pulley.
The hitch shown has too much tail in it for me. I like a tighter rig with less play.
While the multiple atatchment points on the new piece looks nice, I tie on to the beckett so I'm sticking with my fixe.
begleytree
H. sapiens moderatus
I was looking at the micro mouse pulley in sherrils fall catalog (pg 11) and thought, wow, cool!!
I don't wear a floating saddle, but the way they show it in the right hand pic looks very nice. but then I look at the left pic they show and although it looks OK, I see that the spliced termination and the friction hitch are hiding behind one another, like I'd have to reach around and/or feel for the hitch when I wanted to descend. I don't like that idea.
So, I think I'll just stick with the single attachment micro pulley for now.
-Ralph
I don't wear a floating saddle, but the way they show it in the right hand pic looks very nice. but then I look at the left pic they show and although it looks OK, I see that the spliced termination and the friction hitch are hiding behind one another, like I'd have to reach around and/or feel for the hitch when I wanted to descend. I don't like that idea.
So, I think I'll just stick with the single attachment micro pulley for now.
-Ralph
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Seems like a reinvention of the wheel!!!
Jim1NZ
ArboristSite Guru
begleytree said:
Thats what i said! Haha
Ekka
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK, educate the ole fart ... why is having 3 holes better than 2 and better than 1?
I just dont get the big rush to buy a slack tending pulley, yeah I can see it's lime green and shiny and has 3 holes ... so what?
I just dont get the big rush to buy a slack tending pulley, yeah I can see it's lime green and shiny and has 3 holes ... so what?
JohN Dee
ArboristSite Operative
Ekka said:
Well myself the pulley i'm using is that $20 Petzl one at the moment and it can be a real so and so, so I wanna upgrade to this (Based on the price, I don't think i'd pay anymore then 50-70 for a micro pulley) because it looks like it'd do a much better job also with the three holes for variation.
I guess you could have more variation on your slack tender, eg: Some knots like different angles on them to ascend the knot which you couldn't do with a standard micro pulley and some two holed ones.
P.S I like the shiny look of it and the green pulley wheel
Recon Freak
ArboristSite Lurker
begleytree Wrote: but then I look at the left pic they show and although it looks OK, I see that the spliced termination and the friction hitch are hiding behind one another, like I'd have to reach around and/or feel for the hitch when I wanted to descend.
I don't have the catalog so I can't see that view, but how can they be behind each other when the pulley is parallel to you in a suspension strap saddle? They should be beside each other depending on which hand you work your hitch with. Not being critical, just can't picture it in my head!
I don't have the catalog so I can't see that view, but how can they be behind each other when the pulley is parallel to you in a suspension strap saddle? They should be beside each other depending on which hand you work your hitch with. Not being critical, just can't picture it in my head!
begleytree
H. sapiens moderatus
I know and I can't find it on their site either. the way it was pictured in the pic that looked good was the pulley was on the rope center of a glide saddle, with the 2 'biners on either hole, keeping the attachment points side by side and keeping them seperated. it looked good, but I don't wear a glide.
the other pic was a single attachment by one biner between the saddle and pulley, with the other attachemnt hooked to the other ear (causing the pulley to hang vertically with the pulley facing away from you tending the tail. this caused the friction hitch to lay against the 2nd biner and splice.
hard to describe, I'll keep looking on their site for the pic
-Ralph
the other pic was a single attachment by one biner between the saddle and pulley, with the other attachemnt hooked to the other ear (causing the pulley to hang vertically with the pulley facing away from you tending the tail. this caused the friction hitch to lay against the 2nd biner and splice.
hard to describe, I'll keep looking on their site for the pic
-Ralph
begleytree
H. sapiens moderatus
OK, I still couldn't find the pic, so I took a pic of the magazine page. I had to leave it large for detail.
pic is copyright Sherrill arborist supply and only reproduced for this discussion.
pic is copyright Sherrill arborist supply and only reproduced for this discussion.
Climb020
ArboristSite Operative
The first pulley is designed by Treemagineers. Don't just think of the pulley for slacktending put as well in riggin applications wear it can double as a riggin plate for MA. The mickey mouse pulley was designed for the glide saddle. That was the main purpose of this pulley but it has carried over as a slack tender as well.
To answered Ekka's question is the holes create a more streamlined system. I can think of times where this is an advantage but it is hard to word it. But when double crotching it will cause less clash and buched up hardware on the saddle. I imagine that the Treemaingers pulley as made along with the treemotion. The small ring, like the butterfly, I would imagine is hard to way to much gear on it. I know this is a problem for I individual that climbs on it.
To each there own though. Some still climb on a tautline with no tender. But I see it as worth a try. Still waiting to recieve mine, but WTH it's only money and lucky for me I am young with little overhead so I can mess around and try out whatever comes out. If you don;t like it sell. Easy as that.
To answered Ekka's question is the holes create a more streamlined system. I can think of times where this is an advantage but it is hard to word it. But when double crotching it will cause less clash and buched up hardware on the saddle. I imagine that the Treemaingers pulley as made along with the treemotion. The small ring, like the butterfly, I would imagine is hard to way to much gear on it. I know this is a problem for I individual that climbs on it.
To each there own though. Some still climb on a tautline with no tender. But I see it as worth a try. Still waiting to recieve mine, but WTH it's only money and lucky for me I am young with little overhead so I can mess around and try out whatever comes out. If you don;t like it sell. Easy as that.
Recon Freak
ArboristSite Lurker
I can visualize that arrangement and see where the lines would overlap. I intend to purchase a Glide saddle and this pulley to keep my standing end and fixe/william hitch kit separated somewhat. I've seen so many great ideas and rig setups on this site, I can't wait to start testing them in the field!
RedlineIt
ArboristSite Guru
What I like about the reinvention of the wheel is when the new version is rounder.
The crude CMI version has exposed bolt and nut end projections.
The Petzl fixe and this freeworker are smooth-sided, with captured bearings. Nice.
My take:
CMI: NASCAR tech.
Petzl: F2, Champcar tech.
Freeworker: Totally F1! Worth the bucks?
RedlineIt
The crude CMI version has exposed bolt and nut end projections.
The Petzl fixe and this freeworker are smooth-sided, with captured bearings. Nice.
My take:
CMI: NASCAR tech.
Petzl: F2, Champcar tech.
Freeworker: Totally F1! Worth the bucks?
RedlineIt
Jim1NZ
ArboristSite Guru
Ok this is really hard to explain and if some one can improve on it please do, here goes.
There are 3 holes on the freeworker, and 2 on the CMI well obviously ha. But its the positioning of the holes that is most important.
The CMI contains 2 holes, one below each other, a carabiner attaches to the lower hole containing prussic set up which also attaches to your D rings on your harness. The dead end (knot end) on the climbing rope is attached to the top hole on the pulley via a separate carabiner, this is required to balance the pulley on the system making slack tending more efficient as the pulley remains in the correct position.
BUT, what happens with one hole below each other on the pulley, your climbing ropes run so close together that the rub, burning out the part of your climbing rope thats touching.
Thats when the 3 hole pulley comes into play, notice the positioning of the holes. Now that middle hole is out further than the others, so with your system set up this rubbing does not occur. With the middle hole out further, this imbalances the system thus requiring a 3rd hole balance it up like the 2 hole CMI.
So thats how it works, want to know why climb on it? Or should i stop now haha :hmm3grin2orange:
There are 3 holes on the freeworker, and 2 on the CMI well obviously ha. But its the positioning of the holes that is most important.
The CMI contains 2 holes, one below each other, a carabiner attaches to the lower hole containing prussic set up which also attaches to your D rings on your harness. The dead end (knot end) on the climbing rope is attached to the top hole on the pulley via a separate carabiner, this is required to balance the pulley on the system making slack tending more efficient as the pulley remains in the correct position.
BUT, what happens with one hole below each other on the pulley, your climbing ropes run so close together that the rub, burning out the part of your climbing rope thats touching.
Thats when the 3 hole pulley comes into play, notice the positioning of the holes. Now that middle hole is out further than the others, so with your system set up this rubbing does not occur. With the middle hole out further, this imbalances the system thus requiring a 3rd hole balance it up like the 2 hole CMI.
So thats how it works, want to know why climb on it? Or should i stop now haha :hmm3grin2orange:
