New to chainsaw milling,what chainsaw?

[ranger]

Hey fellow sawyers/millers, here we go again! Just finished custom building a chainsaw mill, similar in design as the alaskan. It will cut up to a 23" log. Have to use a 32" bar on the mill. I'll be cutting mostly spruce and an occasional birch. Most of my logs will be 14"-20". I know that I am going to run husky but not sure which saw. Don't want a 3120. Am going to get either the 385xp or a 395xp. I would rather have a 385 but not sure if that would be a smart decition running a 32" bar for milling purposes. I do run stihl o46's at work and like stihl fine but like the air injection on the husky's. I've a 365 at home but don't want to kill it milling. Any thoughts would be greatly appreiciated. Better let you get back to milling.

Matt

 

[Ryan Willock]

i would go with the 395xp myself simply because i would rather have a little too much power than not enough

 

[Newfie]

I'll agree with Ryan on this one. More displacement will make milling more enjoyable. I have run a 24" bar for milling with my 288, but run a 3120 now unless the log is smaller than 12", then back to the 288. Just curious, why the resistance to a 3120? I wouldn't go smaller than the 395 if you are pulling a 32" all the time. Running the 365 for milling would probably kill you before the saw.

 

[timberwolf]

Hi

I have been using a Stihl 066 for some milling, so far I have found it quite good. works well on softwoods cedar, hemlock, spruce ect. as well as soft hard woods. I use a 32" bar, but use a shorter bar if the logs are small enough. On hard woods it is slow, tried a big red oak log about 27" and dry, it was realy slow even to take off 4" slabs for resawing, would not mind more HP if I was going to do any amount of big hardwood.

Absolutly need Aux oiler for 32" bar esecially if the wood is dry.

Good luck

TW

 

[xander9727]

Why fight it, get a 3120! Then when you decide you want to mill hardwoods you won't kick yourself. Additionally, time is important to most of us. If it takes longer for each cut the money you save on the saw purchase will be lost by the amount of time you give up. I would rather have an engine that has more than enough power than to over work a smaller engine. What ever saw you choose be sure and modify the muffler. Milling really works a saw and you'll greatly increase the life span if you decrease the exhaust temp.
My $.02

 

[timberwolf]

How much hard wood is there to mill in alaska?
What is the plan for the milling? just to square timber for construction or to actually produce finished lumber, and how much production do you require? Is the saw dedicated to nothing but milling.

All questions to ask

I decided on the 066 because I planed to only cut a small quantity of more or less custom wood from the wood lot on the farm, or the odd job where someone had a tree or two to remove.
I also wanted a larger but still usable fire wood saw, also in the stihl line the 120 cc saw comes standard with .63 gauge chain, I wanted to stay with .50 for the availability in this area, it would have been possible to order an extra bar and change components but that was an extra cost and hastle.

TW

 

[ranger]

Thanks for the good info on the saws. I know the 3120 would be faster than the 395 and last longer, but I just think it is too heavy for me if I want to use it some for bucking and firewood,plus I'll be hauling the saw out to the bush. I plan on building a couple of line cabins for trapping here in alaska. will do some occasional lumber making at home also. the only sizeable hardwood we have is birch but is usually 10" to 14".
On the muffler mods, wood I have to modify or adjust anything else to the saw. Really think I'll be getting the 395, but am not ruleing out the 066. I know both would be great saws just don't know which would be better in the milling department.
Thanks again
Matt

 

[Ryan Willock]

ranger, pound for pound the 066 is THE best stock saw ever built!!!! you ought to consider that over a 395xp in my opinion:angel: i have one (modded by Dennis) and i love it, it blows through wood with a vengance!!!:angry2: i think even otto will agree on this one! nothing agianst the 395xp just like the 066 better (same power less weight)

 

[xander9727]

I have to agree with ryan on this. I would take an 066 over a 395. But given a choice I would get a 120cc saw.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by timberwolf


Absolutly need Aux oiler for 32" bar esecially if the wood is dry.

Is an aux oiler something you can buy? Or do you have to build one?

 

[Bill G]

I am not a chainsaw miller and probably never will be but I have no doubt just like the majority of the people responding I would go with the 3120XP. I have a 3120 and I love it sure it is a little heavy but the extra cc's is great. The price right know for them is unbelievable. Believe it or not someone sold a new 3120 for I believe $601 on ebay about 4 weeks ago. Please search the ended auctions and see. No matter what, they can be bought over ebay for under $900 including shipping. Hey these are just my thoughts so they may be off the wall. Like I said I am not a miller jut a saw fanatic.

Bill G

 

[Newfie]

If you are dead set against the 3120 because of weight, I would skip the 395 also and get a 385 or 288 and save some big $$ for very similar horses and weight.

Maybe I'll change my mind again tomorrow.

 

[Tony Snyder]

I've been told that Jonsereds gets good results with the limber mill they sell using their 2095 saw. (95cc)

 

[Ryan Willock]

Rich, you can buy an auxillery oiler from bailey's. some of the mills even come with them:angel:

 

[Crofter]

Aux. Oiler

Rich the auxilliary oiler is just a gravity feed to the bar tip. By the time you made up the pieces thoug you would be much better to buy the kit. The biggest chore is drilling the bar tip. It puts the oil onto the loaded side of the bar, then you can cut back perhaps on the saws own oiler. Whatever saw you use, plan to run a rich mixture and don't lug it down. It is hard on a saw.

Frank