New to CSMing....short introduction

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Stihlhead460

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Hi all, new to milling here. Been researching it for years now and finally took the plunge. I will be running an MS460 with a light muffler mod and retune on a 24 inch Alaskan. Plan on milling mostly dimensional lumber from the many fir trees that have come down on my property. I also have access to cedar, big leaf maple, and Adler. I know the 460 isn't ideal but being that I am working with softwood I think it will be ok. Here is a pic of my set up.
 

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Run 32:1, make sure your chain is sharp and take your time. Where about in WA be you.


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Tacoma...with 6 acres of woods in Darrington. Dad and I have been working on turning the place in Darrington into our own little private camp spot for the family. Here is a pic of the picnic shelter we are building.
 

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Hi all, new to milling here. Been researching it for years now and finally took the plunge. I will be running an MS460 with a light muffler mod and retune on a 24 inch Alaskan. Plan on milling mostly dimensional lumber from the many fir trees that have come down on my property. I also have access to cedar, big leaf maple, and Adler. I know the 460 isn't ideal but being that I am working with softwood I think it will be ok. Here is a pic of my set up.
Not neccesary to up oil ratio. Adding more oil leans the gas to air ratio leaning out the burn.My avatar shows the largest bar I've run on my ms-460.DP muffler cover opened up,limiters trimmed on carb, Hy flow air cleaner.Boblhas learned from previous milling masters & offers the best advice on milling and sharpening chain. Bsnelling has videos on tuning for long life performance on chainsaws. If you would feel more comfortable with more oil in the mix tune rich to prevent burning up saw. I've milled 26" wide white oak boards and 37" wide live edge ash w/460 .Set up to breath as freely as posible which I've learned on this site lets the heat out.Original muffler set up (for epa) retains heat shortens saw life, restricts power. As long as you avoid bogging saw down by excessive feed much can be done with these ms-460's. Mill safe(-;
 
Not neccesary to up oil ratio. Adding more oil leans the gas to air ratio leaning out the burn.My avatar shows the largest bar I've run on my ms-460.DP muffler cover opened up,limiters trimmed on carb, Hy flow air cleaner.Boblhas learned from previous milling masters & offers the best advice on milling and sharpening chain. Bsnelling has videos on tuning for long life performance on chainsaws. If you would feel more comfortable with more oil in the mix tune rich to prevent burning up saw. I've milled 26" wide white oak boards and 37" wide live edge ash w/460 .Set up to breath as freely as posible which I've learned on this site lets the heat out.Original muffler set up (for epa) retains heat shortens saw life, restricts power. As long as you avoid bogging saw down by excessive feed much can be done with these ms-460's. Mill safe(-;

First thing Brad would tell you is to up the oil for milling. Most people I know run 40:1 standard. As far as leaning it out, if you don't know how to tune the carb milling is probably gonna end badly and you certainly shouldn't do any mods. . . . If you don't know how to tune. Bobl definitely knows his stuff and his experience gives him a wider margin for error than a newbie.


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First thing Brad would tell you is to up the oil for milling. Most people I know run 40:1 standard. As far as leaning it out, if you don't know how to tune the carb milling is probably gonna end badly and you certainly shouldn't do any mods. . . . If you don't know how to tune. Bobl definitely knows his stuff and his experience gives him a wider margin for error than a newbie.


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Blsnelling doesn't mill.Bobl has indicated several times that manufacturer recomendation of fuel/oil is adequate for milling.He has also said in threads that heavier concentration of oil ends up with his hair ,clothes,etrc. being oily.The carb sends a quantity of mix, when the mix has moreoil-less gas the saw runs lean and burns up, unless the volume of mix is increased to provide enough gas.Bobl has also he gets headaches milling with others heavier oil mixes
These forums allow me to learn from others' experience/mistakes.I don't have enough money or lifetime to learn as much from my own experience. Course I started out with a beam maker style hanging on a ms-170 small trees or logs making corner posts & the like.
If I had a Snellerized saw (ported, modded saw) I'd follow his recomendations.My muffler mod saw works correctly & well with 50:1 mix.I left out part of the muf mod involved matching gasket to exhaust port of saw. Then flipping gasket around to match muffler inlet to gasket by grinding awaymuf inlet to max the flow.Was beggining of opening up the flo. May your milling remain safe 1st. ;-)
 
I never stated that either way was right or wrong. Oil mix is Kinda like religion, It's a personal choice.


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Personally not a believer in higher ratios of oil. I believe saw tune, sharp chain, and not forcing your equipment beyond its abilities are far more important. Personally I believe more oil in the mix is a bandaid for neglecting one of the afore mentioned items...
 
I think the idea is to extend the life of the bearings. Mix, chain sharpness, and rate of feed are unrelated.


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Blsnelling doesn't mill.Bobl has indicated several times that manufacturer recomendation of fuel/oil is adequate for milling.He has also said in threads that heavier concentration of oil ends up with his hair ,clothes,etrc. being oily.The carb sends a quantity of mix, when the mix has moreoil-less gas the saw runs lean and burns up, unless the volume of mix is increased to provide enough gas.Bobl has also he gets headaches milling with others heavier oil mixes

All that aside, I have been running 40:1, because the 076 I still have has a manufacturer spec of 40:1, and I only wish to have one fuel mix on hand.
I have also only been using semi-synthetic lube. When I run out of my remaining lube I will be switching to fully synthetic and running 50:1 on all my saws including the 076.
Bluerider has been milling with 50:1 and fully synth on his 076 for a number of years.
 
I think the idea is to extend the life of the bearings. Mix, chain sharpness, and rate of feed are unrelated.


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Sharper chain lowers power needed to keep speed up in cut. Dull chain slows feed, makes dust, not chips and heats up saw placing more wear on bearings from heat and resistance to clean cut. As such I agree with Stihlhead460!
Do you mill ;if so, how long do your PH's last?
 
I see your point but apparently your not getting mine. All things being equal increased oil prolongs the life of the bearing regardless of the load. Besides that fact wouldn't you want a wider margin of error as a new user?!?

And to answer your question I actually make an income with milling how about you? Stated with a lone 066 now I run an 090 and 088 for slabs and a band mill for dimensional lumber. I've never lost a PH, still use my original 066 mill head for bucking large logs and milling in tough locations.


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I am not troubled by your response & I've no interest in argueing. As you've stated oil ratio ,type,brand personal choice.Hard to read inferences in type. The way I hear what I've read is that the several items which need to work in harmony are disconected??
My perspective is that enough oil on the moving parts isn't helped with more. Another aspect that I believe is that; 1.sharp chain helps minimize load on power head 2. well oiled b&c helps lessen drag/load on power head 3. carb tuned to 4-stroke out of cut and 2-stroke in cut with correct feed of teeth into log causes my medium 76.5 cc saw to sing while throwing large chips. I'm happy hearing my saw work that well. Glad for you if you are satisfied with the methods you use (-;
 

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