We recently had a new Wood stove installed where I live, now we get smoke pouring in half the time. Any time you open the door to add wood smoke billows in. The set up goes , stove, barometric damper, regular damper, chimney, . Yes we've cleaned the chimney ...this just seems like a bad set up to me, as smoke pours I to the house from the barometric damper as well, even with the damper behind it wide open. Any suggestions?
New wood stove installed, smoke every where! !!
- Thread starter Daveguy
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spyder62
Addicted to ArboristSite
I’m not really a wood heating guy,but I do oil and gas heaters. How tall is your chimney and what is it made of?
You mentioned "new" stove. Was there an old stove installed previously that worked fine?
Can you give more info, there could be many causes of poor draft.
Where is the stove? Basement, ground floor? Ground floor addition?
What is the house like? Single storey or several?
Floor length? Location? Ie external wall or? Insulated? Block off plate? How much above the roof?
Stove, draws room air or oak? Is the house well sealed or draughty?
I presume you are opening the dampers before loading wood?
Where is the stove? Basement, ground floor? Ground floor addition?
What is the house like? Single storey or several?
Floor length? Location? Ie external wall or? Insulated? Block off plate? How much above the roof?
Stove, draws room air or oak? Is the house well sealed or draughty?
I presume you are opening the dampers before loading wood?
Remove the barometric damper. They are not recommend.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
That sounds like a screwed up install, for one thing. Was it a pro job or a DIY?
As said above, doubtful a baro should be there at all. But any time both are installed, the key damper should be before the baro and the baro should be shut pretty well all the time except for when it's gusty windy out. You did not say anything about what you have for a chimney or stove though so we're pretty in the dark here. Pictures may help.
As said above, doubtful a baro should be there at all. But any time both are installed, the key damper should be before the baro and the baro should be shut pretty well all the time except for when it's gusty windy out. You did not say anything about what you have for a chimney or stove though so we're pretty in the dark here. Pictures may help.
Put some foil over the baro damper and burn it like that for a while and see if it fixes your problem. I don't think you are supposed to use them on wood stoves. If it's one of those epa stoves you shouldn't need it at all.
laynes69
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's it's truly a woodstove and not a furnace, both manual and barometric dampers shouldn't be used. A woodstove is a manual operated unit, therefore a manual damper would be used (only if an overdraft exists). If you have a woodfurnace that has an automated air intake, then a barometric damper would be used (if advised by the manufacturer). Simple things like flue elbows would restrict draft to the point a damper wouldn't be needed. Without pics or a description, it's impossible to figure out what's going on. A manual damper poses as a restriction in the flue as is, the baro just makes it worse.
I'm not sure if the baro on the wood furnace really helps. So far it's been more trouble than it's worth.
laynes69
Addicted to ArboristSite
It depends on the model. We have no issues and very little buildup, but our furnace is EPA certified.
I could see if you had a draft inducer on your furnace that you may want a baro but I do not. I have a cheap primitive furnace I just thought I'd try the recommended baro this year but I think it may have more negative effects.
You need to get rid of the barometric damper in your flue connection.
You have in installed incorrectly and it's breaking the draft from the firebox when you open the stove door. Smoke is like electricity and flows to the least resistive path. The chimney continues to draft when the firebox door is opened but ita pulling all the air through the barometric damper and the smoke flows out your door.
If you need a barometric damper (which you need to measure the draft in inches of water column and determine it is excessive as recommended by the stove manufacture) then the proper way to install one is like this.
You have in installed incorrectly and it's breaking the draft from the firebox when you open the stove door. Smoke is like electricity and flows to the least resistive path. The chimney continues to draft when the firebox door is opened but ita pulling all the air through the barometric damper and the smoke flows out your door.
If you need a barometric damper (which you need to measure the draft in inches of water column and determine it is excessive as recommended by the stove manufacture) then the proper way to install one is like this.
Rick Hammer
ArboristSite Lurker
is your stove pipe up above the peek of the roof?It should be minimum of 2 feet higher.
If you have a masonry chimney, make sure the cleanout door on the bottom is tightly closed.
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