Hey guys thought I would ask my question here instead of a new thread.
I'm looking at purchasing a mill and saw for small jobs around the farm. I know when I give the specifics most will say save up and buy a bandsaw mill. But I want to be able to use the saw for cutting trees and firewood.
My question is which saw to buy, with pros and cons? Also I'm looking at the Alaskan 36" or Norwood potable? Thought I would come ask the pros bc I know the dealers will give me biased answers.
I will be milling mostly cedar, walnut, and oak. First project is beams, 2x6's, and 2x4's for a pole barn. My experience with a saw is mostly firewood. Stihl 036 pro is the biggest saw I've ran. Hopefully this gives enough background for feedback. Thank you in advance!
Hello, I really like my 660 and a 36" mill. One recommendation however is to go for larger mill. I don't think you'd save much weight with a smaller mill and price of finding metal to extend it could equal cost of 36 from the start. Most things I mill however are under 24", I've milled a 32" log and thankfully the bark would easily peel off as my mill was maxed out. I'm 28 and strong, yet mill gets heavy and chain sharpening can take some time with big bar. That's why I wished I would get around to ordering some milling chain for the bar that came with my saw, the 25" bar. Save a bit of weight and time sharpening. Being on a farm you probably have a tractor to lift the logs. Heavy logs I yet to have a way to raise off ground and stooping down for extended periods kills the back.
So if you want to quarter logs or stick to small logs the norwood portable is way to go IMO. you can stand up, sharpen chain easily without pulling mill off just unbolt saw. The extended throttle is nice and you're not lifting a lot of weight, like the mill and saw combo. What I hate though, is it's 14" capacity. Looks like the unit could take a larger bar with mods but the clamping unit to log looks like that's the limiting factor. Perhaps you could use some wheel chocks to lock the log next to it, not sure. Also I'd say you'd need a fairly level surface to make sure log stays lined up with unit and not bumped out of place while loading new logs if you don't use one piece of lumber for both units.
Right now if I had the money I'd prob try the norwood unit or kind of wish I would have gone that route but that only due to back issues. I've learned to leave my milll on log after completing cut, drag board off and toss right off and behind log and than drag mill back to repeat. Also thank you BobL for the throttle zip tie idea.
My goal is to build log jack someday, but for now my budget is tight. I still need to work on a log trailer. I've been limiting myself to 5' logs on trailer and mill 8' pieces on site. I'd have a hard time finding a safe way to quarter saw right now. Splitting a log in half is easy and I'd even do that to a large piece to get on my trailer. However, not sure about the quarter sawing. Maybe free hand a flat spot to mount a guide to, that's where I struggle right now. Not that you'll prob need that but for me with the norwood I could throw a half piece in, split it, and continue on. That'd take time.
Sorry for long winded reply, just determine your needs and what tooling you have. I love my mill, just I don't have any proper means to move logs aka tractor!
Also, I'm rather happy with 12" boards as I'm looking for building lumber and woodworking. I usually always mill larger than 14" logs though. Would I mind having to always rip logs down just to fit in the mill? Not sure, takes me a few min to throw a ladder up on a log and get it setup. Than for a cant form rotate it. All avoided on Norwood. Hate the size of it though, why limited to 14"? I'd much prefer 24", guess you can't always win.
Harbor has a sawmill for about 2k. Not the best, but seems to have decent reviews. Lot of guys on here will tell you you'll soon want some big slabs. I too am getting that bug. I've got 2" slabs off a 32" pine, beautiful clear wood. Had plans to use for building lumber but premium wood there I'd really like to build a table. If you've got access to harwoods that size, get into bookmatching and than have some fun! I've got some 16" cherry going to try bookmatching for coffee table. My goal is to build my own band mill or to get the LM 29. I added up that just the bar lube and expensive synthetic oil used in a yr would prob make one or two payments. Cost me $6 a gallon for saw gas with oil. Adds up, would love an electric mill. Cheap to run and never runs out of gas.