Newby question on chain wear

[Ian]

I've gone through about 4 tank fulls of gas on my new saw and already found I need to have my chain sharpened. Of course it doesn't help that my wife had to try it out and went right through the wood into the stone driveway a couple of times.
My question is, approximately how long should a chain last between sharpenings? I realize there are a number of factors that go into this, like not trying to cut through stones! but do some of you find yourselves changing chains every X number of hours?
Also, is there a good chain supplier online, my two local stores do not stock the appropriate chain for my Husky 345, I'm looking for a 16" H30 - or does someone recommend a different chain?

thanks
Ian

 

[toolmaker]

Ian, one thing I have found is that no matter how sharp they are, they don't cut stones! (Ha, Ha) As for four tanks of gas, I never go by that. I always file or change a chain as soon as I notice it getting dull. When I go out to cut firewood, it is nothing to go through two chains or so per pickup load. Not always from stoning, but just getting dull. I am usually cutting dry oak and cherry, it dulls chains fast. I subscribe to the theory of touching up a chian before burning the cutters back too much, thus causing you to remoive too much metal to get it sharp again. As soon as I notice myself pushing on the saw to get it to cut, or the chips not flying as much, change or sharpen it. Hope this helps.

 

[eyolf]

First place I would look is a genuine Husky dealer for parts and service, including the chain...its their business. Chain stores and hardware stores (that aren't set up as servicing dealers) usually only stock a few items proven to be quick sellers; whether or not their stock helps you out isn't a very important consideration.

That dealer will likely be able to give you plenty of advice. If he isn't able to help you, somebody else in thge area probably will. Look in the yellow pages under "saws".

 

[WOLF_RIVER_MIKE]

Hi Ian, check out Madsen's. Lot's of info here. I ordered a couple of loops from them couple of weeks ago.

http://www.madsens1.com/

 

[chainsawworld]

there is no set formula as to shapening chains. as soon as it gets dull, sharpen it. less strain on the saw and operator. if a chain is too dull you'll find yourself pulling the isolators and buffers out of the saw, glogging your air filter faster and getting annoyed. marty

 

[davefr]

It's more a function of the wood you're cutting, your technique, your oiler performance, and the chain style than the no. of hours or tanks of fuel.

A sharp chain should throw out nice big chips and curls of wood fibre. Once the size of these start to turn from chips to sawdust than it's time to change chains. I prefer to have 2 chains for each saw because the last thing you want to do is start filing a chain in the middle of a cutting session. (You tend to want to finish the job but end up pushing the chain beyond where you should and that becomes dangerous).

Madsens has a good deal on chains. Buy one at regular price and they'll send you another free. They'll also help you pick the right style of chain. I've also had good luck buying Bailey's loops.

 

[homelite360]

my rule fo thumb is touch up the chain every time i put gas in it and don't let anyone sue my saw unless they know how to sharpen a chain if they dull it.

 

[treeclimber165]

Rather than touching up my chain every time I fuel it, I prefer to touch it up whenever it needs adjusting. If it needs adjusting, it means it has gotten hot enough to stretch. Friction causes heat. A dull chain causes friction. Therefore, if a chain needs adjusting it probably needs to be touched up.
A lot of times I run 3 tanks of fuel without needing to adjust my chain. If it sags enough to see any part of the drive teeth, I'll adjust it. NOT wait until it's hanging a half inch off the bar!

 

[WRW]

If you think about it as preventive maintenance, a stroke or two per cutter per tank of gas will prevent the heat buildup that caused chain sag. You might get by with no adjusting of the chain whatsoever, and better performance will be assured.
Though, why anybody would want to sue a saw, I cannot figure.

 

[WOLF_RIVER_MIKE]

why anybody would want to sue a saw, I cannot figure

like getting blood out of a turnip, my saws don't have any money...at least none they've told me about

 

[builder]

My saws are full of money.I put money into them all the time.I'm gonna tear one apart some day and see if it's still there.

 

[treeclimber165]

I just went back and re-read Ian's first post on this thread. I'd say that the saw needs sharpening about 1 second after hitting concrete or dirt! NOT 4 tanks later.
As far as changing out a chain in the field, I have found it hard to keep the surfaces clean between the bar and saw when attempting to do that. Sawdust always seems to get in there, and sometimes plugs up the oiler hole. Or creates a gap so the oil drips down the side of the bar instead of going to the chain. I prefer not taking a chain off in the field if I can help it. But this is after many years of learning how to get half-decent with a hand file.
I can fuel a saw, adjust the chain and touch it up in about 5 minutes. It can take a couple minutes longer if I've hit embedded metal in the tree.

 

[chainsawworld]

homelite,
NOBODY sharpens my saws but me! marty

 

[tony marks]

yea me to .still lookin for a shop that can get it right.
not that i can!

 

[wendell hollis]

Hey Howdy Hey, Good Topic!

Hi Tony, there is a real good shop here in Redmond that can put a wonderful edge that lasts on a chain. He uses a wet grinder and only charges 6.50 for a 28' loop off the saw.
Anyhow fellas cutting dead lodgepole in log truck loads I was averageing 8 cord per sharpining as low as 4 and on one rare time 13 and was still going strong till I rocked it. I don't hand file it's takes to much time and I do know how. I am running about 140.00 a month in chain and chain sharpening but I run a razor all day and I have very low saw and aching back maint. bills

Wendell

 

[homelite360]

chainsawworld-
i am the only one who sharpens my chains unless i let soemone borrow a saw and if they rock the chain i make them take it and get ground at the saw shop of my choice - my friends shop. he does and excellent job at grinding chains. never had a burnt edge from him.

 

[Ian]

Originally posted by treeclimber165
I just went back and re-read Ian's first post on this thread. I'd say that the saw needs sharpening about 1 second after hitting concrete or dirt! NOT 4 tanks later.

The hitting stones episode just happened, I was on my 4th tank of gas at that time.
I had noticed the smaller chips, the chain did seem to stretch a little and need more adjustment and was taking a lot of effort to cut. All of this was after the stones episode. The chain felt dull, having no one to show me how to properly sharpen the chain I dropped it off where I bought the saw for a sharpening.

Thanks for all the info everyone.

Ian

 

[rosshuber43]

Good question

I have to agree with having at least 2 chains.Hit your teeth a fewstrokes after each tank, and you'll be happy.Ex wood tick family from Coos Bay

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Having fun cuz I want to do it

 

[stihltech]

sharpening

Remember, the chain and motor do the wotk, not you. If you have to push, sharpen it. Cutting wood it will last a long time. Anything harder, milliseconds. Simple maintenance.

 

[ricksvar]

Ian,
You may want to invest about $20.00 in a chain filing guide that mounts to the bar.Check the manual for your saw or ask your dealer about the size file you'll need.He can also most likely sell you a filing guide which will have instructions for filing.Practice makes perfect and you'll get the skill in a short time.At $3.00-$7.00 a whack to have a chain sharpened the filing guide will pay for itself in a short period of time.Your chain will also likely last longer.
The chain and bar are the high maintenance end of a chain saw.Keeping the bar well oiled and the chain sharp along with proper engine care should give you several years of service.
Be careful,
Rick