newby

[smokinj]

ok just wonder if I could mill with a ported ms 460 I have a couble nice stright walnuts 24in. and hickory 28in. looking to get some wood to finnish my shop any advise would be helpful thank you in advance.

 

[gemniii]

Go for it. Get either an Alaskan or BYO, a sharp chain and cut the log the long way. A 460 should be able to handle 20" of wood.

 

[striperswaper]

don't know what you plan to use the wood for...
most hickory has alot of stress in it and like likely bend and twist a fair amount
walnut is a very nice wood cut right might be worth something in a better economy

 

[smokinj]

don't know what you plan to use the wood for...
most hickory has alot of stress in it and like likely bend and twist a fair amount
walnut is a very nice wood cut right might be worth something in a better economy

just going to build shelves in my shop nothing fancy just more like a man cave if you will. My chainsaw habit getting bigger all the time just have the trees seems like a cool thing to do to finnish my shop. Not looking to sell any lumbar more of a pride thing!

 

[BobL]

ok just wonder if I could mill with a ported ms 460 I have a couble nice stright walnuts 24in. and hickory 28in. looking to get some wood to finnish my shop any advise would be helpful thank you in advance.

How far ported is it? The more ported a saw is the greater the risk is of it being damaged by milling. Most milling newbies do not realize the strain milling places on saws.

Assuming your 28" hickory is 8 ft long, then cutting out a 20" cant and milling that into 1" thick boards requires 253 sqft of cutting. This is equivalent to cutting 59 cookies of the same log BUT instead of the saw getting respite 59 times (even if it is only for a few seconds) between cuts, the saw will only effectively get respite 20 times (15 cant cuts and 4 face cuts) during the milling of the same log.

I'd suggest taking it really easy, richen up the H screw so that the max RPM drops back 1000 rpm or so, and maintain a razor sharp chain. In hickory I'd definitely look at touching up after every tank of fuel. I see you offer a sharpening service but just in case you are not aware about progressive raker setting, then look into it to maintain cutting speeds as chains wear out a lot quicker when milling than regular cutting. Some people think that lower mix ratios help (I run 40:1) but some mill very successfully with 50:1 with full synthetic lube, but on stock saws.

Good luck and be sure to post some pics of your efforts (but please don't post any of you milling on your knees ) Make sure you read the milling 101 sticky to see the range of setups used.
Easier, safe CS milling is about preparation and set ups, as much as it is about the saw.

 

[smokinj]

How far ported is it? The more ported a saw is the greater the risk is of it being damaged by milling. Most milling newbies do not realize the strain milling places on saws.

Assuming your 28" hickory is 8 ft long, then cutting out a 20" cant and milling that into 1" thick boards requires 253 sqft of cutting. This is equivalent to cutting 59 cookies of the same log BUT instead of the saw getting respite 59 times (even if it is only for a few seconds) between cuts, the saw will only effectively get respite 20 times (15 cant cuts and 4 face cuts) during the milling of the same log.

I'd suggest taking it really easy, richen up the H screw so that the max RPM drops back 1000 rpm or so, and maintain a razor sharp chain. In hickory I'd definitely look at touching up after every tank of fuel. I see you offer a sharpening service but just in case you are not aware about progressive raker setting, then look into it to maintain cutting speeds as chains wear out a lot quicker when milling than regular cutting. Some people think that lower mix ratios help (I run 40:1) but some mill very successfully with 50:1 with full synthetic lube, but on stock saws.

Good luck and be sure to post some pics of your efforts (but please don't post any of you milling on your knees ) Make sure you read the milling 101 sticky to see the range of setups used.
Easier, safe CS milling is about preparation and set ups, as much as it is about the saw.

thanks on the info I dont really know much about milling at all I was thinking about the 40.1 thing and run a little richier as well...I only run with sharp chains and will be milling right out back of my shop. I was thinking after every tank just throw on a fresh ground chain and let it cool awhile..I am in no hurry.

portwood was removing bad casting and smothing it out.

 

[BobL]

thanks on the info I dont really know much about milling at all I was thinking about the 40.1 thing and run a little richier as well...I only run with sharp chains and will be milling right out back of my shop. I was thinking after every tank just throw on a fresh ground chain and let it cool awhile..I am in no hurry.

portwood was removing bad casting and smothing it out.

That sounds fine, in fact that sounds real good. Anything that assists powerhead breathing helps milling so you could add a muffler mod if you wish as done right this can really help cooling.

Changing a chain after every cut can be a PITA and you need lots of chains but some operators don't mind working that way. In Aussie hardwood (when it's green it can be as hard as dry hickory) I get about 32 sqft between sharpenings with semi chisel 10º top plate angle, full comp 3/8 chain. Chisel cuts faster first but then much slower.

 

[smokinj]

That sounds fine, in fact that sounds real good. Anything that assists powerhead breathing helps milling so you could add a muffler mod if you wish as done right this can really help cooling.

Changing a chain after every cut can be a PITA and you need lots of chains but some operators don't mind working that way. In Aussie hardwood (when it's green it can be as hard as dry hickory) I get about 32 sqft between sharpenings with semi chisel 10º top plate angle, full comp 3/8 chain. Chisel cuts faster first but then much slower.

muff has a 3/4 in port as well. So If I have this right you can just change the angles on a full comp or semi and not have to use a ripping? I have never seen a ripping chain so that would make things pretty easy.


guess i was not thinking you would have to break the whole thing down to put a new chain on. Hand filing would be easier.

 

[mtngun]

muff has a 3/4 in port as well. So If I have this right you can just change the angles on a full comp or semi and not have to use a ripping?

If you already have some semi chisel, go ahead and use it. Start out with what you got, if you get hooked, you can always upgrade later.

Typical milling chain is semi-chisel ground to 10 degree top plate angle. It leaves a smoother finish than crosscut chain but is not necessarily faster.

 

[smokinj]

If you already have some semi chisel, go ahead and use it. Start out with what you got, if you get hooked, you can always upgrade later.

Typical milling chain is semi-chisel ground to 10 degree top plate angle. It leaves a smoother finish than crosscut chain but is not necessarily faster.

Thanks it would Be hard to get real hook most of what I find just isnt worth it.

 

[BobL]

Thanks it would Be hard to get real hook most of what I find just isnt worth it.

That's what they al say

 

[smokinj]

That's what they al say

LOL it would be a nice part to the whole kit, you just never know what I might come up with. Start out firewood for myself now I sale 20-30 cords a year and another 10-20 chains a week. Cant see myself falling in love again! lol