noise reduction for chainsaw (milling) ?

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mforti

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Yes one more crack at this ever unanswered question . . .

Have read lots of posts on this site saying there is no practical way to reduce noise on a chainsaw without a reduction in power. What about attaching a small car muffler to the chainsaw would this reduce power significantly ? Or how about a sound proof cover over the chainsaw with sufficient airflow holes and cooling mechanisms ? While this second idea may not make regular sawing practical as the soundproof apparatus will get in the way, has anyone thought about this for chainsaw milling as you could just attach the soundproof apparatus to the mill apparatus ?

Looking at some urban milling where reduction in sound would be helpful in neighbour relations.

Appreciate any thoughts.
 
Electric chainsaw. If it burns gas, I don't see an effective way of silencing the saw. Logosol makes an electric saw head for their M7 and M8. Cuts faster too.
 
Most areas have 'quiet hours' inside the city limits.
The 'QH' here is from 6am to 10pm.

Now if you are concerned with the neighbors, then I might suggest another location to do some milling. You might get a SPL meter and have someone hold it at the edge of the property to see exactly how much 'noise' you are making....

Now, all that said.....there is a product on the market that can silence a ATV 900cc motor to a point that it is 'really, really, really' quiet! Increasing the 'baffle area' inside a given muffler will reduce the volume.





Scott (the naked room, feeding the fish) B
 
Thanks all! I'll be trying out a few things and i'll let you know the results.
 
Just putting a carpeted box of shoebox volume in front of your muffler's outlet would help. Leave one end open, and have some staggered baffles that don't go all the way across to help even more.
 
Fixed it for you.

Ah....my old age is catching up on me! I even proofread the thing before posting....oh my, life will be interesting now that I know I can't even trust what my mind is re-reading.




Scott (thanks for the catch) B
 
Was thinking, I know....it is dangerous.

What, if anything, would a large 'silencer' type cylinder have on the tuning of the saw?
Would there be a noticeable loss of power?
How much of a 'loss in cut' due to having an extra 'protrusion' on the business end of the saw are you willing to have?(Unless you build a 'custom pipe' coming off the powerhead to the 'muffler')


I'll be watching to see what you end up doing.....photo's would be great too!



Scott (hoping no 'oops' here) B
 
Q
Was thinking, I know....it is dangerous.

What, if anything, would a large 'silencer' type cylinder have on the tuning of the saw?
Would there be a noticeable loss of power?
How much of a 'loss in cut' due to having an extra 'protrusion' on the business end of the saw are you willing to have?(Unless you build a 'custom pipe' coming off the powerhead to the 'muffler')


I'll be watching to see what you end up doing.....photo's would be great too!



Scott (hoping no 'oops' here) B


One could actually gain power if it's a tuned pipe sized right. Problem is that you will have to make it as there is unlikely the correct size pipe available. There is software to design them. They will typically come " on the pipe" and make significantly more power at a certain rpm and actually reduce power in other areas but may not due the lousy designed( due to space constraints) most guys building tuned pipe make them adjustable in length to tune them to the rpm.



If the pipe was mounted vertical to the frame work it will not affect the depth of cut. Mount the pipe to a vertical tube welded to the bar clamp. Mount the muffler to it with outlet pointing up. This will help with noise directing it up(main reason why large equipment has vertical exhaust pipes) Make sure to use a spring ball joint where it attaches to the saw to eliminate damage to the saw and cracking of the pipe
 
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