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Kid Tulocay

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Hi Arborists!

Recently discovered this forum and eagerly devouring it so I can educate myself.

I have some property with a lot of trees that have not been managed well. Old and big trees. Lots of large leaning and unbalanced trees, interfering with each other, etc. Spent a lot of money on pro crews with bucket truck, but there's plenty of stuff not accessible via bucket and it gets expensive fast. Discovered there's a whole other alternative of climbing them instead. So I figure heck, I can climb trees, did plenty of that as a kid, just not high enough with enough security to do what I need to. BTW this is northern California, so lots of valley oak, live oak, California bay, Oregon ash, alder--very few conifers.

My plan is no spiking because I'm 99% of the time keeping the tree and I don't want to damage it. I can pretty much climb to everywhere I need to go, plenty of branches, so I don't need all that rope ascending technique. A lot of the aerial routes are along horizontal or 45 degree limbs that would be easy to scoot up or along, if they weren't 40' in the air. And that's the main problem. I need something to protect me from falls is all, that would work on all limb attitudes flat to vertical. Thinking of some kind of lanyard setup where if I fell, I would be hanging under the limb, sloth-style, then maybe a dangling foot loop to help be get back on. I suppose I could add a rappel line, maybe carried in a bag, for rapid/emergency descents, but I see it as optional since anything I can up-climb, I should be able to down-climb, provided I have some security.

So, am I crazy or is there a developed system for climbing around this way?
 
Ur crazy


You want a line to repel on always. If u get hurt it let's you come down one handed don't need Ur feet or second hand.

If you are climbing on top of a horizontal limb and fall off getting caught by a harness and lanyard is not as pleasant as it sounds, jus sayin.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
First, use a harness and proper lines/gear.
Wear a helmet and goggles.
Always stay attached to the tree, even if only 5 feet off the ground.
Always have 2 points of attachment, so when adjusting/moving one safety line, then the other is still attached.
Learn safety set-up for harness, lines, knots, gear settings, rappelling, etc. Go to an indoor rock gym to get instruction and practice.
Never attach to a dead limb.
Don't climb "leaners"
Use a top handle saw and don't cut above yourself.
Have more than enough rope for rappelling.
As mentioned, always be able to get off the tree one-handed.
ALWAYS have someone on the ground for support. Don't climb alone.
Don't be stupid.

Cutting with a chainsaw in a tree is not easy and can be very dangerous. To be honest, I wouldn't recommend it unless you get some training. But if you do decide to do it, be sure to also carry a tourniquet.
 
And if you want an idea of what to expect, go up a tree 5 or 6 feet, attach yourself in well with about 2 or 3 feet of slack, and fall. Then imagine doing this without warning, 30 feet up in the air, and with a revved up chainsaw in your hands.
 
Do you know how to safely and effeciently use a saw on the ground? Do you know what you plan on cutting off the trees? Is there any scientific thought behind this? or just climb and chop some crap off the tree?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
Hi Arborists!

Recently discovered this forum and eagerly devouring it so I can educate myself.

I have some property with a lot of trees that have not been managed well. Old and big trees. Lots of large leaning and unbalanced trees, interfering with each other, etc. Spent a lot of money on pro crews with bucket truck, but there's plenty of stuff not accessible via bucket and it gets expensive fast. Discovered there's a whole other alternative of climbing them instead. So I figure heck, I can climb trees, did plenty of that as a kid, just not high enough with enough security to do what I need to. BTW this is northern California, so lots of valley oak, live oak, California bay, Oregon ash, alder--very few conifers.

My plan is no spiking because I'm 99% of the time keeping the tree and I don't want to damage it. I can pretty much climb to everywhere I need to go, plenty of branches, so I don't need all that rope ascending technique. A lot of the aerial routes are along horizontal or 45 degree limbs that would be easy to scoot up or along, if they weren't 40' in the air. And that's the main problem. I need something to protect me from falls is all, that would work on all limb attitudes flat to vertical. Thinking of some kind of lanyard setup where if I fell, I would be hanging under the limb, sloth-style, then maybe a dangling foot loop to help be get back on. I suppose I could add a rappel line, maybe carried in a bag, for rapid/emergency descents, but I see it as optional since anything I can up-climb, I should be able to down-climb, provided I have some security.

So, am I crazy or is there a developed system for climbing around this way?

your ceazy
Jeff
 
And if you want an idea of what to expect, go up a tree 5 or 6 feet, attach yourself in well with about 2 or 3 feet of slack, and fall. Then imagine doing this without warning, 30 feet up in the air, and with a revved up chainsaw in your hands.
Don't forget to do a couple hundred push-ups, sit-ups, and pull-ups first to simulate how you would feel after climbing around in the canopy.
 
Don't forget to do a couple hundred push-ups, sit-ups, and pull-ups first to simulate how you would feel after climbing around in the canopy.
I suck at push ups sit ups and pull ups and I can still kinda climb a tree, lol...

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
Your lanyard around the the limb with no climbing line is a great idea....

Until a limb breaks
 
Somewhat similar situation... but with 80-100' ceders and Douglas firs.
I haven't climbed nor ran a chainsaw in 20 years.

I started with a 16 hour chainsaw class at the local college (they offer a degree in forestry or such).

I then spent $1,000 on climbing and PPE gear at Wesspur.com - that was a tough, as rope at home depot is much cheaper and Amazon has $60 saddles... But when you're 60' up (or 20') the penality for failure is quite high.

Friedmans had a 20% off sale on Echo, and being a non-professional, that brand will do me good. Picked up a 355T for in the tree and a 590 for on the ground.

The comments from IyaMan above are spot on as to what I've learned over the last two months.

Lastly, the first time I went up the tree, I gotta say, an 8lbs chainsaw & all that gear gets heavy after a couple hours of trimming and lowering +25' limbs. (trimming off dead branches).
[photo=medium]4628[/photo]
 
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