Noob saw questions. Dealers, Techniques and Safety

[masiman]

Hello all,

I have been lurking for a couple weeks reading almost everything I can. I hope I am avoiding the typical noob question of which saw is best but hopefully I have defined my requirements enough to make that play a lesser part in my question.

I currently have an MS170 that I have been very happy with (and no, I will not be saying that this saw is just as good as any pro saw) . My guess is that you all would recommended a 180 over the 170. Oh well, the 170 has worked great for me.

I think my next saw will be an MS250. I like the way it felt in my hand (have not cut with one yet) and also based on the power, weight and cost from the comparison thread a little while back. I have grown to like the easy 8+ lbs of the 170 and decided that a 290 and saws of similar weight were more saw than I needed. If I had stupid money I think I would be getting a 260, but I don't have stupid money. I would like to keep this under 300 but maybe up to 350 if the extras are worth it for me.

I am currently helping a neighbor bring down an average size tree in their front yard. They are so thankful that they are offering to help buy me a saw and I would be giving them my MS170 to replace their electric saw. There are a number of dealers here that I am comfortable with to buy a Stihl from. The problem comes in that I am not married to a Stihl and would like to see the Husky's and the Dolmar's that compete against the MS250. Can anyone recommend a dealer for those around Northern Virginia? This is my core question, because if something goes wrong I will likely need good dealer support, not just one that carries them but can provide good service. Dealer support is the one reason I did not buy a Tanaka trimmer.

From the comparison threads it looks like the Husky's to look at would be the 350, but many like the 353 and 359 more. However, the latter two look to be out of the price range and start inching up in the weight. In the Dolmar's it looks like the 540, 460 and 510. Keeping in line with my needs am I far off in my thinking on these other saws? From the other threads I think I am on the right path.

My other question is where can I learn good sawing techniques. I loved that one video of the swedish guy demonstrating how to fell a tree. I have been doing the notch and coming from behind technique (not the technical term I am sure). I really enjoyed his way of taking the small chunk out of one of the root spurs and doing the plunge cut with the wedge. Can anyone point me to some other sources? Pictures would help immensely because I get lost in the tree climbing discussions about how they are doing their techniques.

Any recommendations on chaps and helmet or are they all about the same? I will assume I should be wearing them but I have not seen many discussions on that topic.

Thanks for any info or feedback.

This is one of the best information sites I have found. You all are consistently on topic and helpful. Thanks for providing this community.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

You've got alot of questions in one post, so I'll try to hit on each one. The 250 is a great little saw. I bought one to send to a friend in Australia, and I was impressed at what a complete little saw it was. I've thought about getting one as a camp/misc use saw. And the price is right too. Compared to the 359, the 359 would win out easily, but they're different saws, and as you mentioned, it costs more.

As far as tree work info, I'd say there's no better book than Jerry Beranek's Fundamentals of General Tree Work Bailey's has them on sale right now. Get it, read it, know it.

As far as chaps, Bailey's has a wide variety available. Try a search on here for "chaps." It's been talked about alot, and there's alot of different opinions on pants vs chaps and so on. Have a look around and see what you think.

Welcome to AS.

Jeff

 

[computeruser]

First off, welcome to AS. You can learn a lot by hanging around here some. Just make sure you keep your BS filter in working order.

If you have been happy with Stihl products and can find a dealer you are comfortable with, the 250 would be a good choice for a homeowner saw, and is a good step-up from the 170/180 saws. You mentioned that if money were no object then you would consider a 260, and that a 290 is a bit heavy for your needs. These are very good observations and it is refreshing to see that you're OK identifying your needs and limits. It is very easy to be sucked into more expensive = better, bigger = better, especially here at AS. The trick is to buy what you need, not what others (or your ego!) think you need.

Husqvarna's 345 and 350 would be roughly comparable saws. The 353 and especially the 359 are different creatures entirely, as Jeff pointed out. The Dolmar 510 and 540 are both good saws, but since dealer support is very important to you I would shy away from them unless you have a good network where you live and cut.

There are lots of good resources to learn more about tree care and saw use. Do a bit of looking around online and you'll find a lot of good resources. One that I think isn't too bad is http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/, it has some good pictures of tree pruning and maintenance.

Chaps vs. Pants: Chaps all the way, in my opinion. It gets plenty warm enough with just chaps on, I cannot imagine wearing full safety pants in anything but the dead of winter. I know that the full-wrap chaps and pants provide somewhat better protection than chaps. But I think that it is more important that you always wear something and because chaps are so easy to put on and take off during the course of working, you are more likely to use them.

 

[masiman]

Thanks guys,

Just the input I was looking for :biggrinbounce2: . I'll pick up the book along with some chaps and a helmet. Meanwhile, I'll keep lurkin' and learnin'.

If anyone else knows of a good dealer of Husky or Dolmar in Northern Virginia, I'm all ears.

 

[HickoryNick]

You mentioned the 353 and the 359. I was in the same dilemma just this past Monday. I like the 353. It's a light saw, I liked how it has a metal case as compared to other saws. It just felt and looked like a well built saw .

My primary purpose for the saw was getting in fire wood and general farm use. While I was deciding, I thought to myself, "Will I need a bigger saw?" then my male ego said "Ugh".

That was it, I got the 359. I'm absolutely satisfied with it, as I have no doubt I would have been with the 353 if I hadn't have asked myself the "do I need more power" question.

Just an opinion I know.

In comparison to the MS290, which was a bit problematic and I can't be certain just how well it could have performed. Here are the differences I think I can give a fair review on between the MS290 and the 359. I have to assume the 353 is going to be about identical to the 359 except for power and size.

The MS290 was much easier to get the bar and chain off of for cleaning with a spur sprocket and in-board clutch. I also thought the chain tensioner was a bit better. THe e-matic bar was a bit of a pain to clean with any sort of tool due to the plastic inserts at the oil port, but not a problem if you have compressed air. I didn't like how enclosed the cylinder was for cleaning and post use cool down. There also didn't seem to be enough cylinder exposed on the right side of the saw to allow heat to escape during convection or to be ventilated whent he saw was running. I also didn't like how most of the saw was plastic. An overheated clutch could melt it as it was explained to me. But hopefully that won't happen.

The 359 seems to be a bit harder to get the bar and chain off, but once you got the hang of it, it's not so bad. It's also a plus to have a rim sprocket. The bar sprocket is greasable. The case is metal and the only plastic is the rear handle assembly which seems a bit cheap, but I don't have a PHD in polymer chemistry The cover pops off the top to expose most of the cylinder, carb, etc, and you can see the starting assembly pretty good to. A good plus. Not to mention a great deal of the cylinder is exposed on the right side. The suspension is a lot better as well. Clutch inspection is easier.

THat's it ina nutshell. I think they are both good saws but the Husky seems to have the quality on this one.

 

[Mr_Brushcutter]

Thought about a 346xp don't know how much they go for in the states but they are 45cc which is the same as the MS250. There a fantastic saw the vibration on them is really low the only thing is they have an outboard clutch which can be a bit of a pain when turning over the bar, it also makes it harder to grese the needle bearing.

As for safety gear type C chaps or trousers are best because the protection goes all the way around. You need a helmate with ear defenders and mesh visor. A pair of chainsaw gloves would be good too as would a pair of chainsaw proof boots or chainsaw gators.