Not running - Huskee 22 Ton Logsplitter help!

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newcountrygirl

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My logsplitter was running up until this past spring. Then it would start and then stall. Couldn’t get it to run. So I checked and cleaned the carb, checked the fuel line, air filter, checked gas tank for gunk (cleaned that as well), changed the oil, changed the spark plug. Wasn’t getting enough compression, so I checked the piston, rings, cylinder, valves and push rods, rocker arms. Checked armature & coil, timing and oil slinger, replaced all gaskets. Everything else looked good. First pull the flywheel broke. Bought and installed a new one.
Theoretically, it should start. Tried starting fluid, and the most I could get was one backfire, and another time a couple of “pops”. I didn’t try to start it in between the things I checked/worked on. Any suggestions on what to check next?
 
Are you getting spark? Test the coil.
bad on/off switch?
Low Oil sensor?
What brand motor?
Yes I’m getting spark, albeit seems a bit weak to me. There doesn’t seem to be an on-off switch-just the throttle control. It’s a pull start. It’s full of oil and don’t know if it has an oil sensor. It’s a Briggs & Stratton model #126M02-2136-F1. 675 series. I guess it’s old. (Seems like I got it yesterday - 10 years ago)
 
Yes I’m getting spark, albeit seems a bit weak to me. There doesn’t seem to be an on-off switch-just the throttle control. It’s a pull start. It’s full of oil and don’t know if it has an oil sensor. It’s a Briggs & Stratton model #126M02-2136-F1. 675 series. I guess it’s old. (Seems like I got it yesterday - 10 years ago)
Any chance you know someone with the same engine? swapping known good parts beats guessing and buying new. Things like spark plug, carb, etc.
 
Any chance you know someone with the same engine? swapping known good parts beats guessing and buying new. Things like spark plug, carb, etc.
No, unfortunately, I do not. I’m curious as to why it’s “popping” when I hit it with starting fluid..
 
No, unfortunately, I do not. I’m curious as to why it’s “popping” when I hit it with starting fluid..
Timing or valve adjustment. When the flywheel broke, did it shear the key! If an intake or ex valve fails to close due to lack of proper valve lash, it will pop back through the valve that is not seating so valve clearance should be checked.
 
Yes I’m getting spark, albeit seems a bit weak to me. There doesn’t seem to be an on-off switch-just the throttle control. It’s a pull start. It’s full of oil and don’t know if it has an oil sensor. It’s a Briggs & Stratton model #126M02-2136-F1. 675 series. I guess it’s old. (Seems like I got it yesterday - 10 years ago)


I know you installed a new spark plug. Take the new one and swap it out with the old one or another new one. Just trying to rule out a bad new plug. Maybe try a different brand plug.
 
A suggestion is to buy a running used engine from a pressure washer with a failed or leaking pump. Many pressure washers with failed pumps are low hours with low asking price. Just measure crankshaft diameter and length of existing engine to ensure replacement is simple bolt in.
 
Any kind of popping is either ignition or valve related. Since the flywheel broke, I'd be wondering how the ignition TIMING is. If the flywheel wasn't an EXACT match to the OE one, the timing could be off. With chinese parts flooding every market, I'd be suspicious of any new CHEAP flywheel.

Also as someone already mentioned, if it sheared the key and that wasn't replaced, then there's a very good chance the timing is WAY off.
 
compression test it before you throw more money and time at it
These engines generally have a comp release built into the camshaft, you will only see around 60psi till the engine is started, makes a comp check inconclusive. Now a leak down test might help.
 
he's checked everything else minus the replacement flywheel's magnet timing placement
I think he's a she, and my question was about the broken cam comment. That can be verified by removing the valve cover to reveal the rockers, which would not move if the cam were " broken".
 
Timing or valve adjustment. When the flywheel broke, did it shear the key! If an intake or ex valve fails to close due to lack of proper valve lash, it will pop back through the valve that is not seating so valve clearance should be checked.
Thank you! I’ll check that. One thing though-the flywheel didn’t break.
 
Thank you! I’ll check that. One thing though-the flywheel didn’t break.
Timing or valve adjustment. When the flywheel broke, did it shear the key! If an intake or ex valve fails to close due to lack of proper valve lash, it will pop back through the valve that is not seating so valve clearance should be checked.
I DID make sure the timing was correct before I put it back together.
 

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