Oil Change

[jrider]

I recently bought a 3 year old Timberwolf TW6 splitter that only has 23 hours on it. I will be changing the oil before I really get to using it but I have a couple questions. The first one is how much oil does an oil change require? I've looked at the online manual at Timberwolf and the online manual Honda has for the engine. I'm assuming it will be around a quart?
After looking at the Honda manual, it recommends changing the oil every 100 hours and the filter every 200. I have no problem staying on top of it, I just wanted to see what others do.

 

[Conquistador3]

If your splitter has just 23 hours on it it's pretty much new. Just check fluid levels, the hydraulic oil filter/strainer, the engine air filter and get splitting.

On my grandfather's farm I don't remember ever changing oil in the PTO-powered splitter: we just checked once in a while the oil was still clean and not milky and just carried on with it. The tank was big and hydraulic oil was major money, so it was just a matter of economy. Never had a problem with that splitter.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I usually do 50hr OCI on small engines.

 

[Guswhit]

I use the 50 hr rule as well for the most part. In the fall, for my splitters I change the oil, I f I get to 50 hrs on either one, I change the oil and move on, otherwise just wait until fall and do them both at the same time. For my lawn mowers, I start out in the spring with fresh oil/filter and if I get to 50 hrs before I change it. Don't think I have had that issue for a long time though, usually only around 40 hrs for the year. Converted everything to a synthetic equivalent also.

 

[panolo]

I've always used the 50 hr rule and always change the filter. It's cheap protection. Guessing the oil has not been changed on it yet so I would do the filter as well. Brake in is real and a nice tight motor will have lots of fine metal in it. I'm also a big proponent of a good synthetic.

 

[T. Mainus]

That Honda motor should be right at a quart. I would dump about half the bottle in and then check it. It should have 2 fill/check plugs on the bottom of the motor, one on each side. One should have a short dipstick on it, the other one might just be a plug with no dipstick. If neither one has a dipstick, we would just fill them until you could see the oil coming up the slant of the opening. Once again it should be right around a quart. If its a newer Honda it should also have the low oil shutdown on it which is a nice feature if you forget to check it every day. Pretty hard to run them dry. We just put a new Honda GX630 on our Power split splitter and that is a dual cylinder motor and it took about a quart and a half. They recommend 5W-30 synthetic for this time of year. If your running it all summer you might want to put something a little heavier in it.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Changing oil on a TW-6 is a mess, and requires lots of rags. You may want to plan ahead and add an extension and cap when you change it the first time.
I didn't think it would be so bad the first time as there is a drain hole in the deck. Ended up pulling the battery and pad under it, as it just kept weeping oil and collecting dirt and grime.
Synthetic for sure. It has an hour meter on it. Be sure to shut the key off or the meter will run, even if the engine is not. I put eighteen hours on mine that way as it slept in the garage overnight.

 

[NSMaple1]

Who buys a TW6 then only puts 23 hours on it in 3 years?

 

[Jakers]

From Honda's website for the engine I believe you have

GX-630
Engine Type Air-cooled 4-stroke OHV
Bore x Stroke 78 X 72 mm
Displacement 688 cm3
Net Power Output* 20.8 hp (15.5 kW) @ 3,600 rpm
Net Torque 35.6 lbs ft (48.3 Nm) @ 2,500 rpm
PTO Shaft Rotation Counterclockwise (from PTO shaft side)
Compression Ratio 9.3:1
Lamp/Charge coil options 2.7A, 17A, 26A
Carburetor Horizontal type, two barrel butterfly valve, internal vent
Ignition System Digital CDI with variable ignition timing
Starting System Electric
Lubrication System Forced lubrication
Governor System Mechanical
Air cleaner Dual element
Oil Capacity 2.1 US qt (2.0l)
Fuel Unleaded 86 octane or higher
Dry Weight 96.8 lb (44 kg

 

[Jakers]

also, look into getting one or two of these. they make life really easy.
http://www.drainzit.com/
Also found through Northern Tool here
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_small-engine-accessories+misc.-accessories

 

[CaseyForrest]

Picked up one of these several years ago.... Best thing I ever did in regards to small engine oil changes...

 

[Jakers]

Picked up one of these several years ago.... Best thing I ever did in regards to small engine oil changes...

That looks like something found on the darker side of the internet.... Maybe if they made it in a different color scheme but that baby blue is questionable at best

 

[CaseyForrest]

That looks like something found on the darker side of the internet....

I hope not!

 

[jrider]

Who buys a TW6 then only puts 23 hours on it in 3 years?

A guy with a tree business who thought he would get into selling firewood.

 

[NSMaple1]

Sounds like a good find for you!

Just in case there was any doubt (I couldn't tell for sure) I would definitely change the oil before running it. If that still has the original oil in it, 3 years plus break in nasties likely wouldn't do it much good. First one is the important one. (Plus filter if it has one).

 

[Thomas Venditto]

Picked up one of these several years ago.... Best thing I ever did in regards to small engine oil changes...

I wouldn't use it. Won't get the dregs IMHO. Definitely won't get metal files.
TomJV

 

[Thomas Venditto]

50hrs sounds good. I never timed my use. I should really get a clock. I split about 4 cords per year I guess.
I'm a home guy and just do it 1/yr. 10-30 synthetic.

I never did the hydraulic oil. My dads is over 40 years old and he never did it either. LOL.
TomJV

 

[jrider]

Seems like quite a few guys change at 50 hours. If I do that, I will be changing it every 7- 10 days during summer. I'm thinking I will stick to what the manual says and go with 100. I will be changing it though before I run it any more and I plan on using synthetic.

 

[jrider]

From Honda's website for the engine I believe you have

GX-630
Engine Type Air-cooled 4-stroke OHV
Bore x Stroke 78 X 72 mm
Displacement 688 cm3
Net Power Output* 20.8 hp (15.5 kW) @ 3,600 rpm
Net Torque 35.6 lbs ft (48.3 Nm) @ 2,500 rpm
PTO Shaft Rotation Counterclockwise (from PTO shaft side)
Compression Ratio 9.3:1
Lamp/Charge coil options 2.7A, 17A, 26A
Carburetor Horizontal type, two barrel butterfly valve, internal vent
Ignition System Digital CDI with variable ignition timing
Starting System Electric
Lubrication System Forced lubrication
Governor System Mechanical
Air cleaner Dual element
Oil Capacity 2.1 US qt (2.0l)
Fuel Unleaded 86 octane or higher
Dry Weight 96.8 lb (44 kg

Yes that's the engine. I could only find the oil capacity in liters but did the conversion and it came out to 2.1 quarts as you listed.

 

[CaseyForrest]

I wouldn't use it. Won't get the dregs IMHO. Definitely won't get metal files.
TomJV

Not sure I understand how pulling the plug will encourage the draining of "dregs" or metal files either. They sit on the bottom and the draining oil doesn't create enough velocity to pick these items up off the bottom and remove them.