Old dog new trick.

[beastmaster]

Probably everyone else already knows how to do this. I'v been reading about it in sherrills catalog for years but it never took root in my brain tell now.
I guess you suppose to use a cambium saver with some kind of attachment they sell to do this. but I used a sling with two carabiners and it worked great.
You put the sling around the tree but not all the way,(I had to double my up)then you run you climbing line throu the biners. This will cause it to chock the tree and you can come down safely, and after you get down,take off your knot and pull your climbing line out, then the whole thing will fall down to the ground.I used this for a palm tree. Coming out of a palm, lots of times your line seats it self deep into the fronds making difficult to pull your line out. This takes care of that problem.

 

[imagineero]

I use that every now and then but not very often. I use a whoopie sling to do it cause the size has to be pretty spot on.

another trick I use which I haven't seen many other guys use, is for getting out of a tree once I've taken the head out and want to descend, especially if I'm going to pull the tree over. At the top of the remaining leader, cut a slot about 1-2" deep and about 3 kerfs wide. you can even neaten it up a little by cutting a radius at the edge. Put your rope in the slot and you've just created a crotch. Don't skimp on depth, and do a neat job of it.

Shaun

 

[treesmith]

Handy tip, thanks Shaun

 

[imagineero]

I use that one quite often, mostly 'cause I forget to take the whoopie sling with me ;-) Plus I hate having to spike back down big dead hardwood barrels :-(

I'll get a photo of it next year

 

[imagineero]

You get the idea. It's fine this size for descending on, if you plan on using it as a TIP and going back up it I'd cut it a little deeper

 

[sgreanbeans]

Real deep, that always freaks me out a little, knowing that if I fling my rope to hard............

 

[beastmaster]

I have used that one a few times my self, but never felt comfortable with but I didn't cut em so deep.
I often notch the stick like that on the last 10 ft or less of a removal through a deck. I cut a 12 in. slice. but a rope or sling around it then start to slide it off before it goes over I notch the stick to caught the rope on the opposite side, then shove it over slowly. We have a lot of big pines that people build decks around, they seem to be the first to go from beetles.

 

[jefflovstrom]

There seems to be some deleted posts from a certain poster, does anyone notice it, guy named Shannon,?
Jeff

 

[imagineero]

Didn't notice it myself. In this thread?

 

[imagineero]

I trust it fully, and I think it's a safe technique but you have to use it appropriately. For me that means;

• cut it deep enough. At least 2 inches for descending on
• If using it as a tip, I'd cut 4-5 inches
• radiusing the corner adds a big margin of safety, and doesn't take much time
• make a nice job of it, no jagged edges

It really doesn't take too long. Regardless of the size of the stem, you're going to have the right saw in your hand if you've been blocking down. I can get this cut in similar or less time than getting a sling sent up. It also leaves the guys free to work on the ground also.

 

[tree MDS]

That notching the stem trick is probably as old as three strand. Works great with a closed climbing system, come down to next cut, whip rope forward and around stem, take up slack, and there's your second tie in. Proceed to cut log.

New pup, old trick. Lol

 

[MasterBlaster]

Over the years, I've known three guys who didn't make their notch deep enough. Unhappy campers!

 

[tree MDS]

Over the years, I've known three guys who didn't make their notch deep enough. Unhappy campers!

Definitely wouldn't wanna go limb walking off one, that's for sure. Lol

 

[MasterBlaster]

For sure! It's strictly for descent.