Just came across an older Alaskan Mill power off of a Homelite 1050 Super. After dusting this thing off and a quick rebuid on the carb I found myself hooked on the idea of milling! I'd like to use this mill as it is but I am having issue finding a new ripping chain to put on this beast. The one on it is pretty worn and needs replaced. The big problem is its a 404 pitch and .058 gauge and I can't locate chain for it. Anyone know where I could find that setup? I'd rather not have to replace the bar "48 inch". Any way to open up the gauge on a bar to accomadate .063 gauge?
Older Granberg Alaskan Mill
- Thread starter wulf
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excess650
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Is that bar a solid nose, sprocket nose, or roller nose? You might want to consider changing your drive sprocket to 3/8 and running 3/8 .058 (ripping chain is available in that size) if the bar will accept it. Solid nose won't matter, sprocket nose needs to match pitch, roller nose?
7 pin .404 would be like 8 pin 3/8, so may cut reasonably quick despite the saw not being rev happy.
Don't worry about ripping chain, regular chain will work out just as well and you can easily enough convert the Top plate filing angle to a lower angle over successive sharpening
If it is a solid nose you could change the drive sprocket and go with 3/8-058 chain.
Sorry Nope
Thank you for the advice. The bar is actually a double end bar with a helper handle that has a matching sprocket. Any idea where I would find a 3/8 sprocket for the Homelite 1050Super? Searching online hasn't produced any good leads. I'm assuming I should be able to change the sprocket on the helper handle to match. Didn't realize I could use crosscut chain, would I just grind the top plate back to 10 degrees? The scoring cutters on a ripping chain aren't nessasary? Sorry about the newbie questions but milling is new to this old firewood cutter! :msp_w00t:
excess650
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That 1050 may take the same rim/drum or spur sprocket as the C-series Homelites C-5/C-7/C-9. You'll have to do a little investigating, but that big old Homie pullin' 3/8 would have more than enough torque to mill.
Scoring cutters aren't necessary if you have enough grunt to pull the chain. If you buy new ripping chain it will be be just like the cross cut chain with the exception fo the top plate angle at 10-15* vs 30-35*.
I'll see if I can recall where I saw a clutch drum for that old beast. I'm working on a C-52 which is basically the same platform but smaller (77cc).
Scoring cutters aren't necessary if you have enough grunt to pull the chain. If you buy new ripping chain it will be be just like the cross cut chain with the exception fo the top plate angle at 10-15* vs 30-35*.
I'll see if I can recall where I saw a clutch drum for that old beast. I'm working on a C-52 which is basically the same platform but smaller (77cc).
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In my book they aren't necessary at all.
john taliaferro
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welcome , you might ask about the sprocket over on the chainsaw forum , your gonna like milling slabs . Get your self a hi lift jack to get logs up off your nees .Read the stickey at the top and don't forget camera
excess650
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I sent him a PM with a link to a clutch drum.
Test run! Yee haw! Thank you gentlemen for helping get started and can't wait to get to some of the better wood. Just starting playing with some junk poplar logs before touching the nice black walnut that we saved up. To get everything up off the ground we took an old 36" hemlock log and grooved out a V lengthwise and just rolled the log we want to mill up on top, definitely a back saver. Put a mini mill on a Echo 660 to slab the sides. Thanks again for all the help and advice.
excess650
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If you tilt your saw the opposite direction on the mini-mill you won't wear and eat so much sawdust.
That big Homie and long bar looks a bit overkill for cutting boards from that cant.Refuel between cuts, and don't be surprised if the Homie boils your fuel.
It also looks like you are milling into the wind?
There are also ways of vertical milling with the top of the bar which significantly reduced the sawdust thrown upwards by the saw,
Wulf,
I had the same thing when I built my first mini-mill, it was like standing in a snow storm. BobL, you wouldn't understand snow where your at....
Here is a dust shield I built for my mini-mill and it works great. Now I do run my saw so that the chain is pushing through the log and I have turned the saw around so that it pulls. So, the shield can be put on either side of the saw to reduce the dust from covering you. If you look in my footer you will see how I attached the shield to the mini-mill frame.
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/160682.htm#post2689620
jerry-
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