OSHA response?

[Kevin]

The question ...

Topic: General Industry
This is a question pertaining to your tree felling techniques.
The open face notch is described as having the back cut made at the same level as the V in the face cut.
Other back cuts are made above the V thus leaving a hinge, I have been instructed to make the back cut above
the V when using the open face felling technique.
Can you explain why the back cut should be made at the same level as the V in the face cut when making an
open face felling notch.
Thank you.
Kevin Watson.
http://www.osha-slc.gov/SLTC/logging_advisor/manual/felling/cuts/cuts.html

The answer...

Thank you for your inquiry to OSHA. Your question appears to be about the requirements of or complying with
one or more of OSHA’s regulations. Because the correct answer to your question may be situation-specific, OSHA
cannot respond using e-mail. The most timely way to get an answer to your question is to contact our toll free
compliance assistance number:
1-800-321-OSHA (6742).

We regret that we cannot offer this 800-number service to those outside the United States. If you choose, you
may write a formal letter describing the particulars of your workplace and question. To send a formal letter,
please write to:

Department of Labor - OSHA
200 Constitution Avenue N.W.
Room N3603
Washington, D.C., 20210, USA

That was a waste of my time.

 

[treeclimber165]

Sounds like you got 'Formal Respose Letter #472-A'

I wonder if this is the ONLY respose letter they send out to email inquiries?

 

[chainsawworld]

kevin,
the reason the back cut is made level with the bottom of the face cut is to leave fiber(hinge). tree fiber does not grow straight out of the ground as you can see at the trunk.


////////\\\\\\/
////////\\\\\\/
////////\\\\\\/
////////\\\\\\/
////////\\\\\\/
////////\\\\\\/
////////\\\\\\/
/////////\\\\\\/
/////////\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
//////////\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
above shows the open face taken out. if you bore cut at the same level as the stump you will leave holding wood or hinge due to fiber growth. if you cut above the flat part of the stump the fiber(\\\\\) will have been cut and hold nothing. marty

 

[chainsawworld]

huh? that did not come out at all like my draft.

 

[Dennis]

OK..I am not sure if I am understanding what you guys are saying, so bear with me...

I was taught that the backcut should be above the undercut to provide a "step" that the felling hinge can use to cause the tree not to kick out backwards...If one accidentaly cuts off the holding wood...then the tree will still not come off the stump by kicking out...it may go the wrong direction...but not kick out...

I am by no means an expert, or will ever claim to be..that is just what I was taught..and that is what i wouldexpect 99% of our locals do...

 

[jokers]

Hi Dennis, I think you kind of nailed the answer in your reply. The way I see it, it should be very unlikely for a person to accidentally cut their hinge wood in a bore cut, negating the need for the step. I`m no expert like some who may post here, but you aren`t racing the clock when you establish your hinge while bore cutting the way you are using more conventional methods of felling. You have the luxury of the tree being well supported while you true up your hinge and face cuts if need be. Then all you do is pull the bar out, drive a couple of wedges to commit the tree, and make your back cut. I think it`s pretty cool, but I know how it is getting old dogs to perform new tricks, especially when the old tricks work well for so many. It is a great way for new or less experienced workers to learn safe directional falling. Russ

 

[Kevin]

The purpose for the open face is for felling trees down hill, the open notch gives the tree plenty of room to close without jumping off the stump.
The hinge controls the tree until it is severed. Plunge cutting is primarily used on leaning trees under pressure to prevent barber chairing or for cutting trees that are larger than the bar on the saw.
Stihl says leave a hinge on the open face felling cut...

 

[Dragoon]

Dennis, what you describe is exactly what my Grandfather taught me. He was in the forrestry trade for most of his life, and never had a tree land on his head, or kick him on the way down. He worked the bush in the winter, and the mill in the spring. He taught me how to use the hinge wood to direct a tree, and was stickler for using ropes & wedges any time he fell around buildings etc. It may take more time, and may not be necessary in most cases, but it's much better than repairing a roof, or knocking the power wires off a pole, just because the wind had other ideas as to where the tree should go.

 

[chainsawworld]

i just have 2 quick questions:
has anyone else recieved any training such as the GOL or any related training?
is anyone else giving advice an instructor of any type of woods and chainsaw safety?

i am just interested in the background of others. thanks,marty

 

[Dragoon]

Course, yes. Instructor, No.

I had my training in the military, while in the Fire trade. The course is part of the standard trainig, and has a wonderful series of number, letters, etc. that make no sense, but covered the same as what is now taught for the Chainsaw operator's license, but likely in more depth, and from a firefighting standpoint, rather than forrestry.

 

[Kevin]

I have taken what was a three day course on chainsaws.
Two in the classroom and one in the field.
I required it for work and was glad to have it.

 

[timbercutter007]

I have compleated level 5 GOL training. I liked it so much I have been through the 4 lower levels several times. Last time the instructor didn't like the idea of me being a ringer in the levels 1 and 2, so all i got was a Husky hat. There may be an opening for an instructor in my area in the fall, I'm going to try to get that job.
Good program.