Parallel crosscuts on logs

[logbob]

Any ideas on a way or a jig to use a mill to make parallel crosscuts spaced 20" to 35" or more from one another ?
I often use stumps and logs as foot for rustic tables and furniture so the two cuts must be precisely spaced and perfectly parallel.
My Granberg alaskan mill maximum depth of cut is not enough, and I don't think it's a good idea to lenghten the supports so much.
I have been thinking of something perfectly parallel to a board that I may screw my log on, after it's been rough cut a little longer than final lenght, so I can slide the mill on it and get the top cut perfectly parallel to the base. Problem is it can't have have no supports (like table legs or sawhorses) since the mill has to move across it...
Any idea anyone ?

 

[sachsmo]

Necessity is the Mother of all invention.

Good luck,

mo

 

[logbob]

Sure. And maybe I'm not the first to face this problem. Reason why I'm posting here...

 

[devonhubb]

I had a similar situation. I had a large stump that I was wanting to turn into an anvil stand, so I needed both crosscuts to be parallel. What I did was use a set of scaffolding with screw leg levelers to support the guide plank. I had to shim the stump so that it was perfectly vertical for the first cut. Flip the stump over, check to make sure that it is perfectly vertical and make the second cut.

 

[logbob]

The use of scaffolding is a good idea ! Yes I defenly think I will build something based on scaffolds. Easy to regulate the height o the plank deending on desired lenght of log, and the two scaffolds are perfectly parallel. Just need to think out a way to raise and lower the guide plank to insert the saw. Thank you Devonhubb.

 

[BobL]

If you want a much flatter surface than a chainsaw chain can generate then after cutting with a chainsaw using devonhubs method, using a router with a wide bit on a sled supported by a scaffold (same idea again as devonhub) will generate a very flat surfaces.
If you are making legs and you bind them together and cut and then router them all at the same time they will all come out the same length.

This is only a short length but it shows the sort of smoothness that can be generated.

 

[Timberframed]

You could make the foot cut then plane it like Bobl said. Then on an evenly flat floor (not necessarily level) build (considering finished length +)and position two small & sturdy horses of same height fore and aft the stump and with a plank or short slabbing rails attached to the top of all three after positioning your mill in between one horse and the stump, make the cut. The result will be parallel. This setup could be used over and over.

 

[logbob]

Timberframed the method you mention is what I have been using this far. Actually I use to check parallelism of the base plank and the guide plank with a precision bubble. The method works and is precise enough for most applications, however it requires a lot of time to be setup properly for each cut lenght. I like the idea of the scaffolding, especially those scaffold with all the holes on the supports, the holes for the bolts are evenly spaced and just require positioning of the upper shelf according to the deisred lenght of the log.
Bob L. I have used your method previously, however it requires some setup time and then a final sanding is still necessary before applying the finish.
Using a granberg chain and a slow feed, normaly leaves me with a smooth enough cut, easily refined with a variable speed grinder and 80 grit disks.
This is not even necessary when the logs are to be used as foot for tables since both ends are hidden and the cut is smooth enough.
Thank you all for the contribution.

 

[jrhannum]

I made a "slicing horse" to repeat-cut thin sections, see pic

 

[BobL]

I made a "slicing horse" to repeat-cut thin sections, see pic

The OP requires a tall cookie (i.e. cross grained cut) and not a conventional along the grain cut piece of timber.

 

[jrhannum]

BobL, thanks for clearing this up for me. I'd just put my horse up on taller legs or ad-hoc saw-horses so's a vertical chunk can be end-cut. I put walnut chunks under, set at 45-degree slonch and cut very nice oval-shaped slices to plane and edge-shape for gifty cheese boards. Another pic:

 

[Mike Dempsey]

In the UK we can buy a variety of jigs/apparatus's for cross cutting logs for firewood. Whilst one of these would not have the capacity of perhaps a 15" dia log, I don't think it would be too hard to fabricate one either out of wood or steel. If your log has a bit of taper on it, it would necessitate packing up a bit. I would also use ratchet straps to lock it down. I think it is pretty feasible and has been on my to do list for a wee while now but haven't quite got there yet.

Mike