I have a husky 261 that I got too hot down in Hattiesburg. I bought this new from a ranch store in '99 and it has seen light use till now. It came with a 24" bar and the husky dealer here in Bhm said that it was a bit much bar for this saw. Went down to Miss. with a group from our church and cut trees all day sat and some of sun till it ran low on power. I pulled the jug and I sure did a number on the piston. This leaves me with several questions. New Cylinder kit is $350+. Piston kit is $100 (cylinder has tiny scratches but can barely feel them with fingernail) I think they will clean up. 1st Q is 24" to much bar for a 61.5 cc engine or did I have a bad fuel mix? 2nd. cost of a husky cylinder kit makes this a throwaway saw so are there aftermarket or other sources for parts. I like the saw but sure hate to have to cough up another $350 plus to replace it. Any advice from those of you who Know saws more than my casual experience would be very appreciated.
parts for a husky 261
- Thread starter Husky261
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SawTroll
Information Collector
I am no expert on saw rebuilds to say the least, but I got an idea you could try to persue :angel: ;
The 261 is a "detuned" version of the 262xp, and as I recall parts for that one shows up quite often on Ebay.
It might be possible to rebuild it with used 262 parts at a much more reasonable cost than 350 USD, and gain some power in the process.
The 261 is a "detuned" version of the 262xp, and as I recall parts for that one shows up quite often on Ebay.
It might be possible to rebuild it with used 262 parts at a much more reasonable cost than 350 USD, and gain some power in the process.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am no expert (talk about an uderstatement!), but I'd say go to a 20" bar and keep you chains sharp. Not long ago a lot of Husky P&Cs were being listed on eBayware with a BIN of $49.99?? I might be wrong on the price. Sounds like you might get by with a new piston & ring(s).
Glad to hear that your church group is helping folks suffering from Katrina!
Glad to hear that your church group is helping folks suffering from Katrina!
Butch(OH)
Addicted to ArboristSite
You might want to further investigate the cause of failure. From what I have seen myself and also read on here one of three things usualy. Lean mixture or dirty cooling fins causing heat or dirt from defective air filter or leaks. Bad fuel would probably show up as lack of power from tankfull #1. I wouldn't spend $350 on it either. If you can post a picture of the cylinder scratches the 'sperts on here can tell you if it is usable. In the hardwoods around here that would be plenty of bar on a 60CC saw.
Thought I might tell anybody interested and thank SAWTROLL for getting me sent in the right direction.
First I will tell you what I think are the reason for my saws failure (my guess and as I was the one on the throttle, you will just have to believe me) Is first the bar was to long (hardly seems like a typical reason to complain). Second the chain was dull and thirdly and most dangerous, the operator was tired and not paying correct attention to what the saw was telling me. I have owned many and ridden more 2 stroke dirt bikes and an RD 350 and have melted one or two of them down also, so I should have recognized the signs of a hot motor.
BUT on to better things! The 261 is indeed a detuned 262! I have spent too many hours researching this (the net is a blessing and a curse!) I found a place that had an after market P&C kit for a 262 [mfgsupply.com] that cost $150. I ordered it on fri afternoon, It arrived the following wed along with the new gaskets I also got from them, slapped it together before I sat down for dinner and went out after and fired her UP!!!!!!!!!!!! I barely fattened up the high and mid jets and she sounds sweet!!!!! The intake and exhaust ports are of course the same but transfer ports on the new head are noticeably wider though the same height. I would love to see the difference on a flow bench between the 261 and 262. The transfer ports were also much rougher than the stock clinder and I wish I had the coin and the time to remedy that. now I wish I could have found an XP Cylinder for this. Although the decompression is nice for this week end warrior. also makes me wonder if a P&C from a 268 or a 272 would have fit. This based on the stroke being the same and it is listed along with the 262 in the PDF docs I found on line.
I got a 20" bar and a couple new chains and am ready to head back down to the Disaster area and begin practicing proper chain saw use. A $200.00
mistake fresh on my mind to help temper my tree cutting enthusiasm.
Do any of you have some advice on what type of guide would be best for me to purchase to help me learn how to sharpen my chain. Cost is more of an issue now than it was before the $200.00 stupid tax I just spent.
First I will tell you what I think are the reason for my saws failure (my guess and as I was the one on the throttle, you will just have to believe me) Is first the bar was to long (hardly seems like a typical reason to complain). Second the chain was dull and thirdly and most dangerous, the operator was tired and not paying correct attention to what the saw was telling me. I have owned many and ridden more 2 stroke dirt bikes and an RD 350 and have melted one or two of them down also, so I should have recognized the signs of a hot motor.
BUT on to better things! The 261 is indeed a detuned 262! I have spent too many hours researching this (the net is a blessing and a curse!) I found a place that had an after market P&C kit for a 262 [mfgsupply.com] that cost $150. I ordered it on fri afternoon, It arrived the following wed along with the new gaskets I also got from them, slapped it together before I sat down for dinner and went out after and fired her UP!!!!!!!!!!!! I barely fattened up the high and mid jets and she sounds sweet!!!!! The intake and exhaust ports are of course the same but transfer ports on the new head are noticeably wider though the same height. I would love to see the difference on a flow bench between the 261 and 262. The transfer ports were also much rougher than the stock clinder and I wish I had the coin and the time to remedy that. now I wish I could have found an XP Cylinder for this. Although the decompression is nice for this week end warrior. also makes me wonder if a P&C from a 268 or a 272 would have fit. This based on the stroke being the same and it is listed along with the 262 in the PDF docs I found on line.
I got a 20" bar and a couple new chains and am ready to head back down to the Disaster area and begin practicing proper chain saw use. A $200.00
mistake fresh on my mind to help temper my tree cutting enthusiasm. Do any of you have some advice on what type of guide would be best for me to purchase to help me learn how to sharpen my chain. Cost is more of an issue now than it was before the $200.00 stupid tax I just spent.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Try the roller guide!
I just posted thos in another tread:
"The combination roller guides/raker guides work great for holding the file at correct hight, and for filing rakers. The rakers becomes nicely angled, as opposed to what happens when using some other guides.
You have to use the inside of your head to get the angles right, even though it is a help in doing that too, just not idiot proof...."
.....could work for you too, and they are dirt cheep. They should be available at most Husky/Jred dealers.
I just posted thos in another tread:
"The combination roller guides/raker guides work great for holding the file at correct hight, and for filing rakers. The rakers becomes nicely angled, as opposed to what happens when using some other guides.
You have to use the inside of your head to get the angles right, even though it is a help in doing that too, just not idiot proof...."
.....could work for you too, and they are dirt cheep. They should be available at most Husky/Jred dealers.
