Parts for Stihl 011 & 009

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chris J.

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jul 14, 2004
Messages
7,724
Reaction score
1,528
Location
Inescapable Abyss, Texas
To avoid any confusion, this isn't the saw that Paul worked on.

I'm needing parts for a 011 (AV or AVT I have both throttle handles): One support (1120 791 7605) & three annular buffers(1114 790 9600). The support & buffer go on the flywheel side of the saw, by the oil cap. According to my PL the support is different from the one used on the rear part of the throttle handle.

The PL shows the buffer having the screw that goes into the saw case, but it also shows a buffer without the screw but with the same part number (page 34/35 in my PL). Any thoughts or experience with this? Also I've noticed that this buffer seems to deteriorate much quicker that the others. I'm guessing a combination of being a stress point, & spills/leaks of bar oil & gas mix. Any suggestions on protecting (wrapping, treating) the buffer, or just replace when need be?

The 009--Needs a piston & rings, & maybe a jug. I don't think that the piston is salvageable. This saw will need other parts; will know more once I do more with it.

If you have some parts that you're willing to part with let me know--post, PM, or email. As always, all help & thoughts are much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Chris J.
 
To the folks who sent PMs

Thanks for your help, guys, I really appreciate it. I hope to be able to return the favor in some form. Let me know what you find, & what we need to work out. Chris J.

At this point it looks like the piston & rings might be the problem parts. New is an option, but if I screwed them up....:cry: :angry2:
 
THe bore is different between an 009,010,011,012 but if used as a set it does not matter. So you loose a few cc's displacement big deal.
 
Thanks, Paul.

I was watching a PC set on eBay, but missed the ending tonight. I notice that recently the same seller has listed several sets. I'm going to hit the flea market tomorrow, but don't have my hopes up (few, if any, decent saws). Going there anyway to get some t-handle star?? wrenches. Chris J.
 
Jug and Piston

KW, if you are still needing a J&P, you might check with ls_quindos on ebay. I picked up a J&P for my kickaround saw 029.
After installing them, with new crank bearings, the crank broke. $200 new at dealer, $100 used at dealer, parts saws going for more than I want to spend on Ebay for a 029. I contacted Leon, he sold me a crank, complete with bearings and seals, NEW, for $35. And that included shipping.
-Ralph the frugal
 
Thanks for the heads up.

His recents auctions are the ones that I referred to; I might just try contacting him directly I know what you mean about the prices for parts saws on eBay. Ralph, did you find anything useable among the smoked 009s? If not, I think/hope that a couple of the ignition wires can be salvaged with electrical tape on the badly worn spots. If you're willing to part with a whole saw, let me know if we can work someting out. I know that taking saws apart & pulling parts can be time consuming (well, for a tailgate tinkerer like me).

Thanks to all for your help. Chris J.
 
KW, pulled the ones apart here at the house. found what you wanted, mostly, am pulling apart the ones at the shop today. One of my guys seems to remember a 009 that got dropped, broke case, good j&p. Will let you know later today.
Ralph
 
Appreciate your efforts, Ralph.

Don't put yourself out too much; as you & Paul pointed out some parts can be had relatively cheap. Although I have to admit that my wife's BDay--nice dinner out & a much needed new guitar--kind of tipped the financial scales. Not complaining-she puts up with me:D!

I found one saw at the flea, an electric Poulan. Yeah, baby, yeah! Did get some misc hand tools really cheap.


Thanks to all, & y'all be careful. Chris J.
 
Received new P&C from

eBay, seller ls_quindos. My only complaint is $15.00 shipping charge (which I already knew was inflated) when actual postage is $3.85. Oh, well. Also going to get a used P&C from AS member bcorradi. If nothing else I'll wind up with a useable spare P&C.

Maybe between my parts list, looking at the saw, printing some advice from posts here at AS, & my Stihl CD, I can figure out removing the bad piston & installing the new P&C.

Question: The P&C came with the piston & rings already inside the cylinder. I'm thinking that this is a good thing, but is there a way for me to make certain that they are installed correctly WITHOUT completely removing them? I'm lacking in experience & proper tools; this is the first time that I've been this far inside of a saw.

All help, advice, input, semi-educated guesses, & half-azzed opinions are welcome. Seriously, all help IS appreciated.

Chris J., amateur tailgate mechtech wannabe.
 
That saw is a bit of a challenge to change the piston/cylinder on for a first timer. The rod bearings are 13 loose rollers that are held in place by a large filet on the crankshaft and the fact that the cylinder is holding the piston and therefore the rod in the proper place. There is a special tool made of spring steel to slide over the rod to keep the bearings from falling out, I have used carefullt placed nylon ties and have even been lucky on one or two time and gotten away with nothing. If the bearings fall outclean them and the crankshaft, then coat the crank journal with vaseline to 'glue' the bearings in place then carefully reinstall the rod. Here's a picture of the tool.
 
Sounds like I've got some work ahead

of me. I want to thank Paul/Sedanman & Ralph/Begleytree for their responses.

Paul: Ralph sent a PM with a very detailed response that made me think of one of my questions. Is there a way to tell, without pulling the piston out, if the rings are in correctly, or do I need to pull out the piston & set everything to be safe? I don't mind doing it; now is as good of a time as any to learn how.

I think that there's thread started by Rumination where he gets a lot of advice on installing a piston & rings & jug (but on a much larger saw).

I'm going to do some reading, & a whole lot of looking before I begin this.

Chris J.
 
You have to pull the piston out of the jug to anyway to get it on to the rod. Take careful note of the wrist pin on that saw, it is capped at one end to seal the exhaust port. clean the top of the old piston to see which way the arrow points, usually toward the exhaust. Do not turn the piston in the bore as you may get the end of the ring stuck in a port . One you start messing with saws you can see how complicated something so simple really is. Too bad you didn't have an easier saw to do your first jug job on, something with a real rod bearing.
 
Back
Top