petzel rad system any thoughts?

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madstone

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 15, 2010
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Location
Manistee Mi
I have been following this site for awhile and I am thinking about climbing this spring. I work as a partner in a small tree buisness in N Michigan. I am intrrested in the Petzel ascending systems. I am asking for any thoughts or opinions on this brand or any other brands for that matter. There really is not any place I can go to talk to any dealers around here. Any opinion would be appreciated thanks.
 
i personally really like the rad system once you master a gri gri theres a lot of neat things you can use em for plus its sweet for quick midline attachment is super smooth
 
heres an affordable, easy to use setup. about $225 not including the rope. At least one positive locking carabiner like Petzl am'D or Petzl OK attached to the Petzl Grigri, two biners which could be Petzl Owall's or positive lockers, a hand ascender like Petzl Ascension, a micro pulley like Petzl Fixe or any other like it, and an aider/etrier like Petzl Quickstep.

PetzlRAD.jpg
 
I have had that system for the last 5 years, I barely use it anymore. I can go up the tree just as fast and efficient using my Blakes/DMM Pulley/pantin DRT set up. I had my kids using the RADS last summer though. They like it. :msp_thumbup:
 
thanks for the input. I thinkl i'm going to try it. I really don't think im going to get in tree much more economical than this to start, well maybe a ladder and some spikes. but im trying to avoid ladders if you know what I mean.
 
any version of rads

Any form of SRT is more efficient than DRT. Drag the rope over the limb burns energy in DRT. Why not save energy? Use this energy some where else more productive. The Rig, ID, Eddy, or grigri will work with rads systems. With climbing system from ground to tip (ty in point) focus on leg power. Hand acender with foot loop or double loop. Or pantin or cmi foot ascender. Yes, using a rads system correctly will out do any DRT system. With speed and energy saved. Iustinian's pictured system is simple and quick to set up.
 
I use the RADs' all the time. I have been able to develop some new(for me) strategy's for trimming trees. I now often will shoot a line way out high on the end of a branch to reach a hard to access point, going straight up the rope 50,60,100 ft through space, eliminating a long hard climb.
I also made my system more user friendly by getting rid of that foot strap. That foot-strap I feel is a big pain. I instead do a combo pull and footlock. Even if you don't know how to footlock, you can probably foot lock on the rads. You hardly use any energy. It makes a huge difference in usability of this SRT system. That footloop gets lost, stuck in the trees when you throw it down, you never seen to have it when you need it, and hooking and unhooking it removes some of the spontaneousness of the SRT experience
Of course if your on gaffs you have to use the strap.
You also have to master the throw ball and bigshot for any SRT style to be effective..
 
Madstone, welcome to the site. Questions like this are best asked in the 101 thread.
 
also want to point out that in a drt system, to ascend 75 feet, you would have to pull 150 feet of rope thru your friction hitch. To ascend 75 ft on the RADS, you would have to pull 75 feet of rope thru your systems progress capture device.
 
friction

75ft of friction or 75ft of no friction less effert? I've done both. Ones easier on the body. For the foot loop. Use a piece of old climbing line with a stationary bowline for single loop or double. I just leave the foot loop attached on the handled ascender. Ill get some pic up Saturday.
 
simple foot loop

Stationary bowline below handled ascender (petzl). Foot loop. Remove and store on saddle. Or leave on line with tooth cam open. Follow you down-ready for your next move up. Just started using rope wrench above grigri for smooth descents.
 
climbing equipment

Most metal climbing equipment uses 11mm as max size. Yes, you can stuff 12mm in there. But will create some unwanted friction because of size. Climb on...
 
static foot lock just for ascendin.

nothing beats static foot locking. run your rope over the branch and a strait up prussic is all you need:msp_smile:
Tie your working system on one end before you go up and easy as to change over.
 
Thank you for all your opinions and helpful insight. I also appreciate the photos. I will be buying the rads system soon. I believe I will choose Baileys, They have been helpful in the past. Weather here has allowed us to work all winter hit and miss. Hopefully soon we will be busy all week, and I can put my new system to use.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
footlock

Just curious if your footlocking up with chainsaw in tow? Cutting two or three limbs as you go? Get to tip-work area-move to other side of tree work-descend. Or go back down for two or three limbs missed on the way up? No wasted time or movement.
The veteran climbers know the meaning of no wasted movement or effort. Some parts of DRT or SRT or other systems get used through the week.
With all the metal equipment and several kinds of prussic hitch cords. The possabilitys are endless for climbing styles. Find what work best for you by experimenting. And if it not for you. Move on to another style. Dont limit yourself by not trying other climbing styles. Climb on..
 
nothing beats static foot locking. run your rope over the branch and a strait up prussic is all you need:msp_smile:
Tie your working system on one end before you go up and easy as to change over.

I tried using a prussic on a single rope early on, and ran into the problem of it tightening up so much I couldn't move up or down. Now on a double rope I can footlock like crazy using only a prussic. You still have the task of getting the rope over a single branch, not so with SRT. I plan on getting and using a rope wrench here pretty soon so I can use my Vt and hitch climber set up for SRTing. I don't have any trouble footlocking up a 11mm line, so long as I have my sticky soled boots on.
 
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