These were done on my Stihl Bench Mount filer....Let me know what you all think.
Last edited:
Pics of my Filing
- Thread starter CaseyForrest
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
skwerl
Will Climb for food
Yup, that's what they're all supposed to look like. 
It's easy when the chain is new and still undamaged. The fun part is when you're on a jobsite miles away from the nearest replacement chain and hit a big nail or rock. And you still have to make the stump cut. And your last 7/32" file is looking a little rough.
It's easy when the chain is new and still undamaged. The fun part is when you're on a jobsite miles away from the nearest replacement chain and hit a big nail or rock. And you still have to make the stump cut. And your last 7/32" file is looking a little rough.
Yeah....havent dinged up a cutter in a really long time. Try to make a habit of keeping the nose off the ground at all costs!
I did get one of those Husky Roller guides for 3/8, and I must say, it blows a regular file guide away. For field use anyway. I used to just throw a file to a chain..didnt care if it was the right diamater, or if I was getting angle right. It worked, but not well. I must say Ive become quite anal about keeping the edges shiny and sharp!
I did get one of those Husky Roller guides for 3/8, and I must say, it blows a regular file guide away. For field use anyway. I used to just throw a file to a chain..didnt care if it was the right diamater, or if I was getting angle right. It worked, but not well. I must say Ive become quite anal about keeping the edges shiny and sharp!
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Has this been sharpened by a machine or is this a bench mounted hand type type file guide?? Kinda looks like it was hand filed then finished with a grinding wheel on the bottom
Your chain looks good it will cut good and fast, but in the picture the cutter looks like what I would call a forward hook, a little too much inside top plate, not quite enough side plate. Basically it translates into an exaggerated or weak working corner that either breaks or rounds over quickly making the chain dull out quicker. I am not being critical, just the way it looks in the pic. It's an easy mistake to make, I've been there myself.
Larry
Your chain looks good it will cut good and fast, but in the picture the cutter looks like what I would call a forward hook, a little too much inside top plate, not quite enough side plate. Basically it translates into an exaggerated or weak working corner that either breaks or rounds over quickly making the chain dull out quicker. I am not being critical, just the way it looks in the pic. It's an easy mistake to make, I've been there myself.
Larry
Last edited:
Bench Mounted Hand file guide. Hasnt ever been touched by a grinder since it came off the reel.
I have the guide set at 30 degrees using 13/64 file with about 1/10 of the file above the tooth as per the directions that came with the guide. Heres the guide......
Well...it wont let me copy from the Stihl site....Ill get a picture of it tomorrow.
Not the bar mount..the bench mount.
I have the guide set at 30 degrees using 13/64 file with about 1/10 of the file above the tooth as per the directions that came with the guide. Heres the guide......
Well...it wont let me copy from the Stihl site....Ill get a picture of it tomorrow.
Not the bar mount..the bench mount.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
I thought it was 1/5 file above top plate? It will cut well but pretty agressive. I think it is a bit hooky for good staysharp but it is exactly what a lot of guys shoot for.
Ive heard 1/5 also. The Manual that came with the filer says 1/10.
OK...so....what does everyone think? 1/5 or 1/10?
Its a stihl sharpener, using stihl files on stihl chain.....
Clearance....you say a 90 degree photo...90 degrees in relation to what? I can snap more pics tomorrow.
OK...so....what does everyone think? 1/5 or 1/10?
Its a stihl sharpener, using stihl files on stihl chain.....
Clearance....you say a 90 degree photo...90 degrees in relation to what? I can snap more pics tomorrow.
There's your picture.
When you were asked for a 90 degree picture, I think it was meant to take a picture at 90 degrees to the side of the chain/bar to give a true side profiile to get a better idea of the hook. It does look fairly agressive in the hook department, but would probably cut like mad in softwood, as long as it stays clean and out of the dirt.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cassey,
Your just a little low with the file, you got a good side plate it is just too low, raise the file a little. The side plate should start at the bottom of the top plate. If you raise the file a little you won't be undercutting the top plate so much, which will dampen the effects of the hook for a good stay sharp work chain.
Larry.
Your just a little low with the file, you got a good side plate it is just too low, raise the file a little. The side plate should start at the bottom of the top plate. If you raise the file a little you won't be undercutting the top plate so much, which will dampen the effects of the hook for a good stay sharp work chain.
Larry.
Thanks Timber!
AX, I understand what you mean by "too much" hook. raising the file wont be a problem...but having the angle as steep as it is wont hurt the chain, will it? Does it only effect stay-sharpness? Ive run probably 1/2 gallon of fuel on the 28" bar and chain and didnt have to put the file to it at all. Cutting silver maple with just barely enough bar to make it through on one pass.
AX, I understand what you mean by "too much" hook. raising the file wont be a problem...but having the angle as steep as it is wont hurt the chain, will it? Does it only effect stay-sharpness? Ive run probably 1/2 gallon of fuel on the 28" bar and chain and didnt have to put the file to it at all. Cutting silver maple with just barely enough bar to make it through on one pass.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cassey,
No, it won't hurt the chain, unless you hit something like asphalt or a nail in the wood, those beaky hooky working corners break or round over farther back on the cutter than if the chain was sharpened the correct way.
Silver Maple is a soft wood, you would notice the stay sharp effect if you were cutting hardwoods like Oak , you would really see the difference cutting Hickory, Osage Orange ( hedge ) Locust, Ironwood, ect ect and let's not forget those good old standing dead trees like Elms, especially Red or piss Elm.
Larry
No, it won't hurt the chain, unless you hit something like asphalt or a nail in the wood, those beaky hooky working corners break or round over farther back on the cutter than if the chain was sharpened the correct way.
Silver Maple is a soft wood, you would notice the stay sharp effect if you were cutting hardwoods like Oak , you would really see the difference cutting Hickory, Osage Orange ( hedge ) Locust, Ironwood, ect ect and let's not forget those good old standing dead trees like Elms, especially Red or piss Elm.
Larry
Last edited:
buck futter
ArboristSite Guru
I'm interested in what they cost also. I was contemplating the oregon barmounted version for 25-30 bucks how much more is this?
buck
buck
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
I've got the oregon bar mount sharpener. It worked good for a while. The main problem with it is all the adjustment screws and adj assy is plastic. It flexes quite a bit when the file is wearing down and you put a little muscle into.
Is the Sthil bench mount all metal? If so, how much is it? I like the idea of the bench mount better than the bar mount. Has anyone tried this setup with a square file?
Steve
Is the Sthil bench mount all metal? If so, how much is it? I like the idea of the bench mount better than the bar mount. Has anyone tried this setup with a square file?
Steve
It was $150. And yes, its all aluminum.
I got one of those oregon bar mounts after I found out how much the Stihl unit cost. After trying to get the oregon one mounted, and then keep it from moving on the bar while pushing the file, I decided that the $150 price tag is worth it.
Its sets up pretty much the same way the bar mount does. But once you have it bolted to your bench, it wont move. Your angles stay locked until you change them.
As far as how long does it take to sharpen a chain...I guess it would take about the same amount of time as a bar mount...but your results will be 100 times better.
I got one of those oregon bar mounts after I found out how much the Stihl unit cost. After trying to get the oregon one mounted, and then keep it from moving on the bar while pushing the file, I decided that the $150 price tag is worth it.
Its sets up pretty much the same way the bar mount does. But once you have it bolted to your bench, it wont move. Your angles stay locked until you change them.
As far as how long does it take to sharpen a chain...I guess it would take about the same amount of time as a bar mount...but your results will be 100 times better.
Instructions say no square ground or carbide tipped chain.
You can, however, use it to file your rakers down if you get a triangular file specifically for that purpose. Im sure its a Stihl file.
You can, however, use it to file your rakers down if you get a triangular file specifically for that purpose. Im sure its a Stihl file.
