Planting trees: Should I fertalize them?

[ForTheArborist]

I've got a job where I'm replacing the trees with some 6' orleadonder trees. At first I thought just dig holes and drop them in. Then I thought I better be sure these things are taking off and living a long time.

These trees are very hardy as in they need little nutrition or water. Should I worry about any irrigation on them. I've heard from one guy that he thought they should be watered a little for the first two years. Do they need a dose of fertilizer too?

I just want to be sure the guy is getting his money's worth.

 

[derwoodii]

After care for new trees is always good but if they are the species below perhaps not "as lifted from a quick web search"

Oleander, an evergreen shrub with pretty flowers, is a particularly toxic plant. It can be a serious threat to small children who like to put things in their mouths. They are often drawn to Oleander because of its attractive bright flowers. All parts of the plant though contain poisons, and if any oleander is swallowed it can lead to problems like nausea, vomiting, extremely low blood pressure, heart problems, and in rare cases even death. For this reason, it's not a good idea to have oleander in gardens where small children play. you might want to get rid of the oleander and plant something else less hazardous

 

[brnchbrkr]

I've got a job where I'm replacing the trees with some 6' orleadonder trees. At first I thought just dig holes and drop them in. Then I thought I better be sure these things are taking off and living a long time.

These trees are very hardy as in they need little nutrition or water. Should I worry about any irrigation on them. I've heard from one guy that he thought they should be watered a little for the first two years. Do they need a dose of fertilizer too?

I just want to be sure the guy is getting his money's worth.

Proper amount of Fertilization, should not hurt your trees, but some will say you are just throwing money down the hole.

Now, amending the soil with a good compost suited to your trees needs, should increase your success rate.

Soak the trees and keep an eye on mother nature's rainfall for your zipcode.

And, don't plant too deep. At grade or a little higher or you will be called back.

Asking over in the Nursery Section of AS may give you more responses.

http://arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=4

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Throw a fish in the bottom of the hole and be done.

 

[treevet]

A $30, 20 gal. Gatorbag watering bag takes all the guess work out of watering and protects your interests while it is putting roots out of the ball. Fertilizer is generally gonna contain some salts at least and this inhibits water uptake. Don't dig a $10. hole for a $200. tree either. Make sure it is at least a third wider than the ball/container and take the glaze off the hole and like said get the root flare just poking above grade. I like to ammend the backfill, some do not.

 

[forestryworks]

fertilizer is a short-term fix. not a sustainable solution.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Some good info above, I'm in the "it depends" camp.

I like to plant a little high and amend the worked up soil around the ball pit.

You do not have to make the pit as deep as the entire ball, just brake up the soil around it so it is easier for the new roots to infiltrate the new area. Since the ball is a tad higher then grade, use amended spoil dirt to taper the mound down.

Ensure that the first order roots are exposed.

A little fert in the amendment is not a bad thing, N helps stimulate roots, too much is will cause problems.

As with anything H2O is the biggest limiting factor, after free O2 in the soil.

This all said, any amendments placed in the bottom of the pit are wasted, since there is not enough root there to matter. Also the hydrology of disturbed soil requires that the top layer to saturate before water moves. Quite often there is anaerobic pooling in these areas.

 

[jefflovstrom]

Some good info above, I'm in the "it depends" camp.

I like to plant a little high and amend the worked up soil around the ball pit.

You do not have to make the pit as deep as the entire ball, just brake up the soil around it so it is easier for the new roots to infiltrate the new area. Since the ball is a tad higher then grade, use amended spoil dirt to taper the mound down.

Ensure that the first order roots are exposed.

A little fert in the amendment is not a bad thing, N helps stimulate roots, too much is will cause problems.

As with anything H2O is the biggest limiting factor, after free O2 in the soil.

This all said, any amendments placed in the bottom of the pit are wasted, since there is not enough root there to matter. Also the hydrology of disturbed soil requires that the top layer to saturate before water moves. Quite often there is anaerobic pooling in these areas.

Great post JPS, I would rep you if I knew how.
Jeff

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Great post JPS, I would rep you if I knew how.
Jeff

click on this

 

[jefflovstrom]

:monkey:

 

[brnchbrkr]

Icon next to this one

under your name

 

[ForTheArborist]

Some good info above, I'm in the "it depends" camp.

I like to plant a little high and amend the worked up soil around the ball pit.

You do not have to make the pit as deep as the entire ball, just brake up the soil around it so it is easier for the new roots to infiltrate the new area. Since the ball is a tad higher then grade, use amended spoil dirt to taper the mound down.

Ensure that the first order roots are exposed.

A little fert in the amendment is not a bad thing, N helps stimulate roots, too much is will cause problems.

As with anything H2O is the biggest limiting factor, after free O2 in the soil.

This all said, any amendments placed in the bottom of the pit are wasted, since there is not enough root there to matter. Also the hydrology of disturbed soil requires that the top layer to saturate before water moves. Quite often there is anaerobic pooling in these areas.

This was exactly what I needed to know. I tried to rep you, but I already gave one to you for something else not long ago.

Thanks, all.

 

[jefflovstrom]

Shouldn't you have a rep to rep?
Jeff
I dont know

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Shouldn't you have a rep to rep?
Jeff
I dont know

Jeff has a rep as a troublemaker

 

[ForTheArborist]

Shouldn't you have a rep to rep?
Jeff
I dont know

Jeff, under the username on the left of each post is a little set of measuring scales icon. If you click it on yours, the server will tell you how many points you have, and it will tell you what kind of rep points or any you've received for that particular post of yours.

If you click the little scales on someone elses post, you have the option to disaprove of the post or approve of it. This issues pos or neg rep points to the person. You are also allowed to leave a message to the poster in regards to the post too.

It's about time you learned something here.

 

[jefflovstrom]

Jeff has a rep as a troublemaker

Come on John, I am the nicest lurker around!
Jeff

 

[jefflovstrom]

Dont rep me, FTA
Jeff
you should have a rep to do that. That is what I was saying.
Jeff

 

[ForTheArborist]

Dont rep me, FTA
Jeff
you should have a rep to do that. That is what I was saying.
Jeff

?

 

[MonkeyMan_812]

Www.usemyke.com

You can add some mycorrhizae to that as well to help develop root growth and establishment / reduce shock. See www.usemyke.com

 

[Toddppm]

Also the hydrology of disturbed soil requires that the top layer to saturate before water moves. Quite often there is anaerobic pooling in these areas.

Can't quite figure out what you mean by this?