Plastic Gaz Tank Leak Repair.

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I have a combined gaz/oil tank that is leaking from the inside seam. I prooved it by emptying the unit and after removal i poured gaz in it and it does transfer to the other side (the chain oil tank).
What is the best kind of tank sealer that would stick to plastic...if any....or should i start looking for a new tank???...............Thanks.
 
Assuming this is a combination oil/gas jug, I would simply replace it as they are not particularly expensive. There really isn't a good adhesive to seal the seam, and it is difficult to get it to adhere properly due to the presence of petroleum products on the plastic. Save yourself the hassle, use this one only for gasoline, and get a new can for your bar oil and mix.
 
Yup TimberPig is right on the money, huck it, once the plastic (poly whatever) has been exposed to fuels and oils it is pretty much impossible to get anything to adhere to it, took me several futile attempts at repairing the leaking tank on my Efco Jet300, plastic welding rods, epoxies, melting it together, etc etc., gah! The solution I came up with was rather novel, I cut the tank down and used it for a cradle for another machines tank and bungied it in, its sort of embarassing to look at but considering a new one was over 100$cdn, well, gah again. :)

As a side note edit there are a couple of threads around here that mention a product that will re-line a gas tank (dirt bikers use it sometimes) but for the life of me I can't find them and it seems hardly worth the effort unless you have some sort of special attachment to said tank, probably not a healthy thing either lol.

:cheers:
 
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Sprig said:
As a side note edit there are a couple of threads around here that mention a product that will re-line a gas tank (dirt bikers use it sometimes) but for the life of me I can't find them and it seems hardly worth the effort unless you have some sort of special attachment to said tank, probably not a healthy thing either lol.

:cheers:

The products you are likely thinking of are Kreem and POR-15, both of which are intended for sealing leaking metal tanks. I'm not sure if they're applicable to a plastic tank (pretty sure they're not), but the cost of these is significantly higher than a new can, so they aren't worth the effort for this application.
 
Well it is for a "COX140-1" and i am pretty sure that i will have a hard time to find a replacement part. I WILL TRY but was having some hope that i could save it. The saw is in like new condition. It was probably the reason why it was put to rest a long time ago...........
 
The only thing I have found to seal plastic tanks is an epoxy called PC7.And it has to be the 24 hour cure stuff,not the 5 minute junk.I've repaired many 4 wheeler tanks and an 025 tank that was split damn near in half.If the tank is not that expensive I'd just replace it though.It's more aggravation then it's worth.
 
I think i will try to call some "plastic repair" company in my area and ask questions....maybe if i put acetone in the tank it will remove the old gaz and oil deposits and then i could coat the inside with fiberglass rezin by shaking it till it hardened?????
 
I dont think i can find a replacement tank sinde this saw is rare and only one model was fabricated. I would need to buy a used one and unsure of it's condition.
 
Careful what solvents you put in that tank.acetone will probably destroy it.
 
If you can't get anything to work, take some pics and send them to me. I am a fuel system mechanic. I fix gas tanks (on KC-135 airplanes for the US Government) for a living. I might be able to fix it for you.
 
Fyi....This company used the COX140-1 engine on small model airplane and fabricated a chainsaw that is made for left handed peoples.It was called the "BEAVER" saw. see pic..........
 
Degrease the entire tank (put it in the dish washer for few cycles!) and scuff up the area to be repaired with a very coarse sand paper. Take a piece of stainless screen material (like spark arrester mesh) and form it until it fits snugly around the broken area. With a hot soldering iron, spot weld the plastic tank to the mesh in several spots. Mix up some JB weld (be very precise with the two parts) and coat the meshed area liberally. Use masking tape to keep if off the "wrong area". After about three hours, pull off any masking tape and gently mound the partially hardened epoxy in the mesh and round out any rough areas. I just use my fingers. Next day, when hard, sand the surface if required.


Do it right and you'll have a long lasting repair.
 
Yup timberpig, it was kreem I was thinking of, not for plastic as far as I know. What I am still not sure of is whether this question pertained to a chainsaw tank or a fuel/oil combo one (personally hate them, messy, useless, too small, make-more-money-produced-junk), dunno, but as I said previously, fixing any propylene type plastics is a nightmare, go quality or don't bother imo. :bang::bang:

:cheers:

Serge

Edit> Yup, a saw, and a cool little one at that, worthy of a decent repair if at all possible. Someone mentioned welding with the same plastic but given its age I can see difficulty there in acquiring any of the same sort and it'd be a shame to marr it if there are other solutions.
 
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plastic repair

If it is on the inside seam then yer on yer own.If it on the out side seam,wash the tank in a good soap several times then with the tank filled with water,take a soldering gun with a flat tip and carefully smooth over the area of the leak.Dont use a lot of pressure and let the heat do the job.:blob2:
 
Tank Repair

Just read the threads on this and was reminded of KREAM.Forgot the spelling,but it is used for tank repair of metal tanks.I dont see why it would not work as it is mixed then poured into the tank and then the tank is rotated around to make sure it covers the whole inside of the tank.just apply some thing to the cap threads so it doesnt ruin them
 
Sprig said:
Yup timberpig, it was kreem I was thinking of, not for plastic as far as I know. What I am still not sure of is whether this question pertained to a chainsaw tank or a fuel/oil combo one (personally hate them, messy, useless, too small, make-more-money-produced-junk), dunno, but as I said previosly, fixing any propolyne type plastics is a nightmare, go quality or don't bother imo. :bang::bang:

:cheers:

Serge

I wasn't sure either, but he cleared it up in his later posts, that it was a saw tank for an uncommon, somewhat rare model. In this case, attempting to fix it makes sense.

In the case of fuel/oil combo cans, the cost isn't worth it. I prefer a separate fuel can and oil jug, but the combination can is much handier if you have to pack your saw for any distance. The one I have is reasonably sized, but the oil pour spout does make a mess. I just pour straight from the can which makes it less messy.
 
TimberPig said:
I wasn't sure either, but he cleared it up in his later posts, that it was a saw tank for an uncommon, somewhat rare model. In this case, attempting to fix it makes sense.

In the case of fuel/oil combo cans, the cost isn't worth it. I prefer a separate fuel can and oil jug, but the combination can is much handier if you have to pack your saw for any distance. The one I have is reasonably sized, but the oil pour spout does make a mess. I just pour straight from the can which makes it less messy.
Yes, a saw,I put an acknowlegement into that post, don't know how I missed it except realllly slow typing lol.
Agree, cool little beast and little doubt its a rarity. Given its age I'd be very leary of trying to plastic weld it as someone has suggested as I think it would be very difficult to match it and from my limited experience trying to melt some plastics together, heat can also make it brittle, hm, probably already is, so I think that looking into a decent way to coat the inside/repair from inside would be the first thing to look into, a google adventure. Another option, though it may be impracticle for a variety of reasons (like cost, dunno), would be to pull the tank and get a mould made of it and have another one cast in modern materials, modern mold making mthods would not wreck the origional, (but then it wouldn't be 'origional' gah), I guess it'd be how true a restoration one wanted and whether it is worthy of the effort eh? An interesting problem for sure with a high coolness factor! Like ta hear what you come up with caporal30! :)

:cheers:

Gah!! I admit it! I'm a google junkie! The saw was rated at over 1hp @7,000RPM, manufactured after the Cox company moved headquarters in '63, saw manufactured from '65-'66 (engine to '69 when Mr. Cox retired), it came with a monster 12" bar, source here> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cox_Models
Link to a Cox engine data base here> http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_frameset.htm
And voila! Your engine (about 2/3 the way down the page) here, with even a cut-away view> http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_frameset.htm This person is a major collector and worthy of tracking down/e-mailing, who knows he might have a parts one kickin' around just waiting for a good home :D
They claim about 30,000 of these engines were produced, some used for bicycle motors called the 'Bronco' (that would've been fun woot!), and some were shipped to Spain for hedge trimmers, can't find any numbers on the saws, oh well.
'Nother link with more specifics> http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...b0a62d717a273b7288256b87000318a6?OpenDocument
 
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saw tank

You are right...there are not too many of those saws around. It will be difficult to locate but i will be persistant. I have to say that i stopped counting my saw collection after reaching over 100 and it is still growing.
I have some of the old Mall 1,2,12,6,7,McCulloch,IEL'S,Wright's....just t name some........
 
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