Started milling some lightning struck Cherry today. Used my 395xp and 36" Granberg.
It cut's well, but, I learned to either do it myself or make sure the guy at the other end of the Bar isn't in a hurry to get home. He was really pushing the rpm's down. You can se it in the cut.
Anyway it's still a good cut for a chain that has cut through a couple of bolts and only had a light touch up by hand.
The Cherry will be used for a base guitar body and violin bows.
I used to do the same thing. The problem is your help doesn't have to pay for the repairs. I usually have help to move the mill around and to move the slabs but I no longer have them on the other side of the saw. I do make them put on Chaps and hearing protection just in case.
I now am a believer in the self feeding method (tilting the log). Angles anywhere from 12 degrees to 19 degrees have worked well for me. Sometimes you'll have to lessen the angle if the chain is grabbing. It's worth the effort when you can relax and let the saw do the work. This picture was taken last year and what you can't see is me grinning from ear to ear. :hmm3grin2orange:
It cut's well, but, I learned to either do it myself or make sure the guy at the other end of the Bar isn't in a hurry to get home. He was really pushing the rpm's down. You can se it in the cut.
I don't like anyone else on the other end of the bar (even the 60"'er) because of this. The few people who have been keen to mill with me have helped me put mill on and off the log and - otherwise I get them to stand out of the way. If the mill and saw are set up right then it shouldn't need to be pushed anyway.
I don't like anyone else on the other end of the bar (even the 60"'er) because of this. The few people who have been keen to mill with me have helped me put mill on and off the log and - otherwise I get them to stand out of the way. If the mill and saw are set up right then it shouldn't need to be pushed anyway.
I have a number of people that I mill with, most of them are keen to take a turn with the mill and I let them. So all my 'helpers' have some experience with milling and an understanding of it, although some are better than others (probably a reflection of their milling teacher!). Anyways, I find that having a person on the other end is sometimes quite helpful, as I have not yet achieved the "self feeding nirvanna".
I find the keys to success when working with a 'pusher' on the far end of the mill are: get a bit of a rhythm going as to who's turn it is to push, back off on the pushing if it sounds like it's gonna bog down.
I've had good success working with a couple buddies who have milled a fair bit with me, sometimes I drive and they take the other end, sometimes vice-versa.
I guess everyone gravitates to the arrangement that works best for them!
Like the self-feed thing you have going on there...you get to do that process everytime or just when the stars align?
And that's one nice chunk of cherry, did you happen to get any close-ups of the grain structure? Always wanted to know what kind grain was best suited for guitar bodies.
The stars don't need to align.
I have found it has three variables.
1. the weight of the mill
2. the angle of the log
3. the chains raker height
I usually get set up and mess with the angle of the log and the weight of the mill. I basically add stuff to the mill till it feeds itself. If you add to much it will stop so I just add enough till it starts to go. kinda like an old scale. Aggiewoodbutcher said he used bags of shot. Some logs aren't worth the effort but the ones that are all day or even two are worth the extra set up. I keep a floor jack under the log( the log is supported by chunks of wood) and if I need It to go a little higher it's not such a big deal. A couple of shims and the log is a different angle. So far I've had good luck with 12-20 degrees of angle. 12 degrees being a 36 inch maple. 18-20 degrees being a 36 inch ash.
All of the above isn't gonna do much if you don't keep the chain sharp.
