Possible Stihl 066 Purchase, need advice

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Ok, I have been a Stihl 026 owner since around '94. I now have 2 of them, 1 with a 16 inch bar and the other an 18.

I am looking to get a larger saw such as an 066 for doing some ChainSaw Milling and of course for larger tree use.
My main question is that I have seen prices all over the place both here and elsewhere where folks have picked up 066's as a powerhead, or complete with bars etc ranging in prices from $250-$500/$600 on up to $800+.
Now I know these saws weren't made yesterday, so most will have had some use and age to them. This is a big factor and should be a bargaining point.

So, in my searching, I have found one saw locally the guy posted a price of $900 for one. He says it is stock, well cared for and serviced at Stihl shop. Now, I am a bit of a cheap bargain hunter so $900 seems pricey. But from what I have seen listed on ebay etc for just the powerhead, many are in the upper $500's to $700 without bar or chains. This one will have a 36 inch 3/8 bar and a new chain. ( I know these items aren't cheap and likely add at least $150-$175+ to any saw) So, here is my thought, if the saw looks clean, and it runs well, and if the guy will let me pull the muffler to see inside the jug, I know $800-$900 is not robbing me like a rip off, but of course I'd like $600-$700 better.

Other than scored cylinder and piston, does anyone have advice on things to look for and advice on getting a better price than his $900

Thanks.
 
Just in case anyone has other saws such as Husq etc to recommend to do the same type job. Please recommend any without feeling like I might have a closed mind.
I am looking into Husq 390 or 395 XP's or other options as long as not crazy expensive.
 
Just in case anyone has other saws such as Husq etc to recommend to do the same type job. Please recommend any without feeling like I might have a closed mind.
I am looking into Husq 390 or 395 XP's or other options as long as not crazy expensive.

A 394 was just posted for a decent price. PHO.

On the 066 check chain ware on clutch side, top hole for felling dog. If it is a older flat top they supposedly have more power if original KS cylinder. Obviously the tank for repairs. I’d pull plug too and check threads. Many guys over tighten these big saws and will strip them.


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Problem with an 066/660 is there are so many guys buying carcasses now and filling them full of Chinese parts and passing them off on CL etc as OEM and at OEM prices. Having no idea what your knowledge level is of these saws, I'd just advise you to use caution. In my opinion, you'd be better off buying a saw from a reputable member here on this site. Stihl, Husqvarna, whatever your choice, there are pros and cons to both, I own a few 064s, 066s, 660s, 661s, 390s, 394s, 395s, both ported and stock, my preference isn't always the same as other people's. I don't care about 1-2 seconds in a 24" log, there is a lot more to it than speed for me. My first choice is still a flat top, non-decomp 066, but none of those saws are a bad choice. I'm not a die hard Stihl guy, I actually cut more wood with a Husqvarna than Stihl, but in that cc class of saw, the flat top 066 has been a long time favorite of mine, I don't see that changing.
 
Problem with an 066/660 is there are so many guys buying carcasses now and filling them full of Chinese parts and passing them off on CL etc as OEM and at OEM prices. Having no idea what your knowledge level is of these saws, I'd just advise you to use caution. In my opinion, you'd be better off buying a saw from a reputable member here on this site. Stihl, Husqvarna, whatever your choice, there are pros and cons to both, I own a few 064s, 066s, 660s, 661s, 390s, 394s, 395s, both ported and stock, my preference isn't always the same as other people's. I don't care about 1-2 seconds in a 24" log, there is a lot more to it than speed for me. My first choice is still a flat top, non-decomp 066, but none of those saws are a bad choice. I'm not a die hard Stihl guy, I actually cut more wood with a Husqvarna than Stihl, but in that cc class of saw, the flat top 066 has been a long time favorite of mine, I don't see that changing.

I’m actually finishing out an all oem flat top 066 this weekend.


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Thanks guys, I don't care about "seconds" through a log too much either. I care most about condition of the saw and reliability. I had planned to ask the guy if he had any problems letting me pull the muffler off to see inside the jug for wear. Those suggestions on checking plug threads, chain wear on clutch side and tank suggestions. Also for checking out reputable guys here. I will look at that 364 if you can point me where to find it. Also, from my experience with my 026, I planned to look over ethanol damage prone areas like what caused running issues on one of my 026's. The saw was easily fixed by replacing the carb, rebuilding the old one as backup, and redoing fuel lines etc. Did 066's ever undergo mods to the fuel system/ airbox components as the series evolved from originals through the later runs like the 026's did?


Stihl 066 A.jpg
 
Stihl 066 B.jpg The guy was listing both saws for $1200. Not sure if he sold the 193 yet.

He also had a 2nd 066 that was dual port but that one sold already. The one I am left to talk about is the one that is closest to the bottom in the pic with 2 066's
Stihl 066G.jpg
 
IMG_0966.JPG IMG_0965.JPG Yes, the earlier style flat top 066 had a different style air box, filter base, and tank than the later ones, the "flat tops" are just that, noticeable by quick glance from the cylinder cover and air filter cover being flatter and more of a box shape than the one you have posted above. There are quite a few other differences if you know what to look for. This is a couple pictures of one of my flat top 066s.
 
Very nice close up shots, HDtoolmaker.

Yup, I know visually the different shape of airbox etc. Thank you for your posting and info. For FYI, I am not well schooled on the subtle and otherwise significant variants of 066's to have the discerning eye for the "good vs bad stuff" But, I am also not married to the saws I mentioned above from this one seller.
 
For general purposes, there are only two main versions of the 066/660, the early flat top versions, then the later round top 066 is basically the same saw as a 660. There were subtle differences along the way with crankshaft changes, cylinder changes, addition of decompression valve, carb changes, muffler variations, coil and flywheel changes, but in general there are two versions, the early flat top version, then everything else.
 
Thank you, HD. No worries about that saw for today. I was making my rounds to the bank, doctor, ( possibly saw seller's place) and finally to a bathroom job.
When I asked the seller if a meet time around 12:30 was doable, he said a guy was there checking out the saw. Turns out the guy took it, full price too.
I wasn't going to go to $900, so it looks like I am still hunting.
The guy said he had a MS460 with 36 inch bar but wanted $750 for it. I am thinking that is undersized for milling and especially for the 24-30 inch maple logs I have laying.
 
Thank you, HD. No worries about that saw for today. I was making my rounds to the bank, doctor, ( possibly saw seller's place) and finally to a bathroom job.
When I asked the seller if a meet time around 12:30 was doable, he said a guy was there checking out the saw. Turns out the guy took it, full price too.
I wasn't going to go to $900, so it looks like I am still hunting.
The guy said he had a MS460 with 36 inch bar but wanted $750 for it. I am thinking that is undersized for milling and especially for the 24-30 inch maple logs I have laying.

Look for a 395 or 3120 for milling at that size.
You'll want the headroom. 30" is going to require a 42" bar if you use a standard Alaska with bar clamp. (36bar will just get 30" width.. just).
I started with a ms661 to do 24-38" fir and cedar which is softer than Maple.
Now with a 3120 it's a night and day difference in less heat and a happier saw.
I know a lot of folks use 6-series saws for milling but it's not ideal for bars over 36".
Not trying to throw a wrench... just saying... extra cubes and more oil makes a better milling saw.
 
Thanks, Andy, Yeah I am aware of bigger and longer is better to mill wide with. My other intention is not necessarily to mill completely the whole 30. I was pondering trimming off some with the bark and then roll the log to cut off 90 degrees to original cut on both sides until I have the log edged and thus less wide.
Anyway,I worked all day till about 10: 30 tonight so I am off to ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
 

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