Possible to burn all night with soft wood?

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WhiteMike

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I'm wondering if it's possible/looking for tips on how to build a fire that will last 8 hours unattended using soft wood. All I have is red fir, white fir, and some pine. It burns great during the day but I haven't figured out how to make one that will last all night. I've stuffed it almost full and gotten a roaring fire, then closing the air flow 90% of the way and still nothing when I wake up. Maybe it's just not possible with this wood?
 
I'm wondering if it's possible/looking for tips on how to build a fire that will last 8 hours unattended using soft wood. All I have is red fir, white fir, and some pine. It burns great during the day but I haven't figured out how to make one that will last all night. I've stuffed it almost full and gotten a roaring fire, then closing the air flow 90% of the way and still nothing when I wake up. Maybe it's just not possible with this wood?

I heated this house with nothing but willow, which was the cheapest wood on a $ per btu basis, for over 30 years. I have a "King" - no not Blaze King - it is an Ashley knockoff circulator type. I could put a big chunk of willow on the fire when going to bed, shut all vents and there would still be enough left to start the burn the next morning.
 
I'm wondering if it's possible/looking for tips on how to build a fire that will last 8 hours unattended using soft wood. All I have is red fir, white fir, and some pine. It burns great during the day but I haven't figured out how to make one that will last all night. I've stuffed it almost full and gotten a roaring fire, then closing the air flow 90% of the way and still nothing when I wake up. Maybe it's just not possible with this wood?
Any fire with big chunks of wood and the air chocked way down will smolder for a buch of hours...you'll get a little heat and some pissed off neighbors.
 
Agree with the others, split large or use whole rounds then shove smaller splits around and in the gaps. Get it fired up enough only to be lit, not roaring and shut it down.

With aspen I more than doubled the burn time in my boiler by using rounds and splits that would barely fit in the door.
 
i'd try using the biggest rounds you can fit in you stove. they will burn slower than splits.

I go with the largest possible single round that will fit on a good bed of coals. Also should be bone dry. In my Jotul F600CB that means opening the two front doors and rolling it in. Catalytic stoves are going to have a longer idle burn time but mine is not of that type.
 
I started out with an ashly stove as well and the trick for long burns with soft wood(pine,aspen) was larg blocks stood on end ! not laid out long ways usually got 2 10" x 16" blocks in the stove for a good 10 hour hot/warm burn along with some stuffed in the open areas. ends burns slower even on a hot bed of coals!
 
I started out with an ashly stove as well and the trick for long burns with soft wood(pine,aspen) was larg blocks stood on end ! not laid out long ways usually got 2 10" x 16" blocks in the stove for a good 10 hour hot/warm burn along with some stuffed in the open areas. ends burns slower even on a hot bed of coals!
You are the man!
 
Here's what I do put a smaller round in the back and the biggest one you can fit in the front. Place them across blocking the air flow coming down the glass. You will need a good bed of coals to start with and do it about 20 mins before you go to bed.
This will have a slow fire which will hopefully last all night with the wood you use.
Give this and chuckler' method a try would love to know how they go.
 
I started out with an ashly stove as well and the trick for long burns with soft wood(pine,aspen) was larg blocks stood on end ! not laid out long ways usually got 2 10" x 16" blocks in the stove for a good 10 hour hot/warm burn along with some stuffed in the open areas. ends burns slower even on a hot bed of coals!

Very interesting. I shall try this in the coming few days as 90% of my wood is soft.
 
Almost everything suggested here (except maybe for the Magic Stove) will come at a cost of greatly increased creosote buildup. Depending on the stove/chimney, and how dry the wood isn't - that might mean a full stove/chimney cleaning every two weeks. So be careful, and check your chimney every day.
 
Almost everything suggested here (except maybe for the Magic Stove) will come at a cost of greatly increased creosote buildup. Depending on the stove/chimney, and how dry the wood isn't - that might mean a full stove/chimney cleaning every two weeks. So be careful, and check your chimney every day.

Just so you know the single large very seasoned log on a good bed of coals lights right off the high tech secondary combustion tubes. This makes for a clean burn. I'll post photos if this thread is still running mid winter.
 
Just so you know the single large very seasoned log on a good bed of coals lights right off the high tech secondary combustion tubes. This makes for a clean burn. I'll post photos if this thread is still running mid winter.

But the OP wasnt talking about making a controlled fire in your super burner ..he's making a giant fire then choking it down 90% ...that's a recipe for a smoke and creosote mess.
 
I started out with an ashly stove as well and the trick for long burns with soft wood(pine,aspen) was larg blocks stood on end ! not laid out long ways usually got 2 10" x 16" blocks in the stove for a good 10 hour hot/warm burn along with some stuffed in the open areas. ends burns slower even on a hot bed of coals!

Aspen is hardwood.
 

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