I was running my poulan 2000 today. The throttle didn't seem crisp it took a sec to get to full throttle. I think the low jet needs tuning but not sure what way to go with it. Also it stalls when I try to cut with the saw sideways. Thanks
Poulan 2000 issues
- Thread starter Welderman85
- Start date
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It will have an air leak somewhere... sounds typical of a crank seal but I'd start by checking the fuel lines & carb by pressure testing them. If that checks out pressure/vac test the crankcase
Thank you. I just replaced the fuel lines so I know they are good. I will have to pressure test the case. could i have cause and damage or scoring if i only ran it 45 mins.
open- counter clockwize your low speed jet about 1/4 turn and adjust idle to suit but sounds like maybe leaky seal as well.
Running lean can destroy a saw in 45 seconds... just depends how lean it is & how you're runnung it.
You're going to need to remove the muffler to pressure test it anyway so have a good look at the piston while you're in there to see if there's been any scoring
Pressure testing these is not as easy, you have to block off the checkvalve for the oiler or it will never pass.
I won't waste my time pressure testing these, easier and faster to just replace the seals and be done with it. Chances are a saw that old is going to fail the test and you end up replacing them anyway. SKF 4913 seals, easy and cheap to get.
I forgot about the case pressure oiler... Check for play in the bearings too, my one had the clutch side seal go & when i replaced it i found the bearing was shot & that was probably what killed the seal
They go in from the outside, just need to remove the clutch or starter assembly. Drill a couple of tiny holes in the seal & tap a couple of small screws in to it then use the screws to pull it out
A hint of a clutch side seal leaking is sometimes you can remove the chain and the idling changes and the tilt test you mentioned get little bit better, or first thing is just loosening and tightening the chain causes the carb low jet setting to change.
It stalls if I turn it on its side muffler side down
How dose one go about pressure testing one of these.
Have to remove the clutch to remove the bolt on cap that holds the one way valve for the oiler & plug that hole (a piece of rubber innertube cut to size under the plug should work). Plug muffler & carb with a similar piece of cut rubber innertube sandwiched between them & the cylinder. Test through adapter screwed into spark plug hole...
There are a few other ways to skin this cat depending on what you have at hand. Easiest way to confirm your clutch side seal is indeed leaking would be to remove the clutch & spray the seal with carb cleaner or something similar while the saw is running... if the saw stalls or the idle changes with the spray then theres a leak.
Once refitted, be sure to tighten the clutch properly before running the saw as they have a tendency to wind themselves off & fly to pieces otherwise
There are a few other ways to skin this cat depending on what you have at hand. Easiest way to confirm your clutch side seal is indeed leaking would be to remove the clutch & spray the seal with carb cleaner or something similar while the saw is running... if the saw stalls or the idle changes with the spray then theres a leak.
Once refitted, be sure to tighten the clutch properly before running the saw as they have a tendency to wind themselves off & fly to pieces otherwise
You can find info (you tube videos) of how to pressure test using Mity/vac 8500 or a blood pressure bulb at about 5 psi.
I use aluminum sign material about 1/8 inch thick as the plate for the carb and muffler with cut gasket material, rubber inner tube or just gasket material. It does not take much to hold 5 psi. I sometimes take the valve core out of a compression testing and inject air into the spark plug hole. Using the flat aluminum plate allows me to Spray water/soap around the edge of the block off plate to make sure it's not leaking.
The vac/pressure type Mityvac is a tool to have for several things if you are a piddler or pro and repair your own stuff, autos, small engines, checking carb needle seats just to name a few.
I use aluminum sign material about 1/8 inch thick as the plate for the carb and muffler with cut gasket material, rubber inner tube or just gasket material. It does not take much to hold 5 psi. I sometimes take the valve core out of a compression testing and inject air into the spark plug hole. Using the flat aluminum plate allows me to Spray water/soap around the edge of the block off plate to make sure it's not leaking.
The vac/pressure type Mityvac is a tool to have for several things if you are a piddler or pro and repair your own stuff, autos, small engines, checking carb needle seats just to name a few.
Maybe it was getting dizzy when you tilted it too fast.
If it starts acting up again you have enough info to do the pressure test. when pressure testing be sure and slowly rotate the crankshaft while watching the pressure.
Put it in the woodlot for a real test.
If it starts acting up again you have enough info to do the pressure test. when pressure testing be sure and slowly rotate the crankshaft while watching the pressure.
Put it in the woodlot for a real test.
