Picked up a couple poulan 2055 and got 1 running but it hits a wall at full throttle and hangs there til i release trigger goes back to idle. It resembles a bog but it just reaches a certain rpm and stops increasing. Took muffler off and air filter no change. Opened high jet no change. Fresh gas. My next move is too inspect carb filter. Ok that is fine. So i turned hs jet to 1 1/2 out and that made it worse. Turned out 1 turn more at a time went back to original problem. Any further no change. So seems high speed passage is problem or some other restriction? Would improper pump arm adjustment cause it? I can switch carbs to see if that helps.
Poulan high speed problem
- Thread starter budddy
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Always good to have a spare carb (cheapie from China) to help determine if it is carb related or something else. Sounds like fuel starvation and can be quite a few things. Restriction in the fuel line or tiny leak, fuel pump diaphragm too stiff to pump enough fuel, full impulse signal not getting to the fuel pump due to leaking gasket on carb mount or pump cover, partially plugged input screen in the carb, carb loose on mounting studs, etc.
Ok replaced carb with 1 off other saw. Turns first carb musta been replacement cuz jets take tool. This carb jets use screwdriver. So at first it seemed to still bog but after running a few times it is all powerful now!! Now i find other issues. Oil pump not putting out much with bar off. If i look in tank spring is off and there's a long slim tube just dangles in there. And clutch teeth worn thru! Im wondering if a can spot weld the teeth to work again. And oops i thought they were same saw. Nope 2055 and 2150 that explains carb diff. So now i gotta figure out these oil pumps! Like drive spring spacing?
Any OEM carb you find on these saws will have splined adjustment screws and need the special spline tool which is easy to get on Amazon. Don't know what's going on in the oil tank, as I recall, there is just a fixed pickup on the side of the tank. Oil pump is driven by the "spring" worm gear on the crankshaft and they are all the same if the crank diameter is the same. The plastic gear on the pump is often semi-stripped if it isn't free to turn. New pump is cheap. Don't waste time trying to rebuild the clutch sprocket, the results won't be good and they are cheap.
So i looked at pump drive spring on both. Since there is nothing to hold position on shaft i assume its a tight fit on shaft. 1 spring was completely compressed together no space between coils. The other was spaced but i dont know what proper spacing is? As to clutch drum replacement i have 30 saws or so im just gonna look for a better 1 as any money put into fixes comes out of sale profit. Saws go too cheap these days. I see pumps on ebay 2 for 10 which is reasonable.
Hello budddy , there's a service manual for 25 models of the pre strato poulan/poulan pro saws in the mymowerparts.com website
The coil on the crank is a tight fit and if it gets installed by pressing it on from the outside end, the coils get mushed together and the distance between them has to be reset by wedging them apart with a screwdriver. The spring on the saw that is not compressed should give you the right spacing. Check the pump before buying a new one, if the plastic gear is in good shape and free to turn, there is probably nothing wrong with it. The saw with the compressed spring has some history, the only time you have to take that spring off and reinstall it is when the crank seal and bearing has to be replaced.
Would be nice to know spacing of coil spring. Since i dont have the tool. Also what is purpose of spring on pump sump tube?
Doesn't one of the saws have a spring on the crank that hasn't been touched? If so, the spacing on that spring will be correct so just use it as a guide. Don't need any special tool, just a screwdriver to adjust spacing. I don't remember what the pickup inside the tank looks like, I'll peer inside one and see what's there.
budddy the spring looking thing on the pump sump tube is actually the oil filter .
Springs over a tube or inside a tube is to prevent the tube from kinking and blocking flow.
It is spaced just dont know if i can trust spacing i made slight adjustment looked too wide assembled and seems to be pumping ok but not gusher
Also why do saws leak oil after using when they sit? I know the fittings are tight. Is there a simple way to stop this? Drain tank maybe?
They all drool oil after being shut down. When running, oil accumulates at the base of the bar and surrounding parts, then runs down when the saw is shut off. Also, if the saw is stored where the temperature varies a lot, the changes in volume can act as a thermal pump and force some oil out of the tank, can be cured by storing with a loose oil cap.
Your oil pump drive worm screw (spring) should be OK as long as the overall installed length is the same as one on the saw that hasn't been disturbed and the coils are all equally spaced.
(Except 3000 and 3400 series)Ok another thing i had mentioned concerning tube in oil tank coming out on bottom bar oiling grove in plastic pic included. I think this is used on poulan built saws after a certain manufacture date? Im wondering if its a return line? Or pressure relief?
The 1 im working on has no checkvalve. I blew air cleaning saw some went into hole started gushing oil. Im gonna look inside some more saws see what i find
Some poulans have a plastic vent tube in the oil tank . If it gets pulled down out of the upper left corner of the tank it can make a oily mess .
What model is that saw ?
