Poulan Pro 455

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tatesdad

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I am newbie here, but reading for a while. I have ordered a chainsaw mill from one of your co-horts....kpantherpro. I am waiting for it to arrive (feel like a kid again waiting for Christmas) and I had planned to just use my 270 Stihl to get used to milling on some small stuff but through reading, I don't want to burn it up just "learning" so I was able to acquire a free Poulan Pro 455 (72cc I believe) that was not running but have since been able to get fully operational and plan on starting out with it. I was wondering if anyone has used a Poulan Pro 455 with any type of milling set up? The trees that I have in mind for it are 22" oak trees and one poplar about the same size. Any input is appreciated.
 
I am newbie here, but reading for a while. I have ordered a chainsaw mill from one of your co-horts....kpantherpro. I am waiting for it to arrive (feel like a kid again waiting for Christmas) and I had planned to just use my 270 Stihl to get used to milling on some small stuff but through reading, I don't want to burn it up just "learning" so I was able to acquire a free Poulan Pro 455 (72cc I believe) that was not running but have since been able to get fully operational and plan on starting out with it. I was wondering if anyone has used a Poulan Pro 455 with any type of milling set up? The trees that I have in mind for it are 22" oak trees and one poplar about the same size. Any input is appreciated.

Milling will kill your MS270, so don't even try it. The PP455 should work, but will be a little slow (72cc). Tune it rich, run somewhere between 32-1 and 40-1 with GOOD mix oil and premium fuel, and keep your chains SHARP.

My first go at milling was with a Husky 272xp, and it didn't take long for me to figure out that I wanted a bigger saw. That PP455 may well be a torquier saw than the 272xp.
 
Notice his method is more of a "noodling" technique much easier than ripping the ends of the grain.
 
Notice his method is more of a "noodling" technique much easier than ripping the ends of the grain.

Yeah, I took notice of that, but its still amazing how straight his cuts seem to be. I've seen similar video from Central America, I think.
 
I appreciate it, I don't think I would ever try what that guy was trying to do in the video. I will hopefully post some pics to the forum of my first go with the 455.
 
If you just want boards and don't need the live edge, you might want to square up 3 sides before milling the slabs. That way the width of the cut is narrower and not as much work for the saw.
 
No I don't need the live edge. I am still trying to figure out what type of hardware to use when trying to level the slabbing rail on a tapered log so that it stays and doesn't jump around. I have tried to read up on it, but it looks like my best best is to use shims to level it out. My wife should get some laughs....but she won't laugh when I tell her the beams she wants me to cut will require me to get a new 660. I'll keep that one to myself.:rock:
 
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