Poulan S25 CVA, D, DA, fuel line replacement.

[Modifiedmark]

Well since theres alot of questions about this, I decided to take pictures today when I replaced the fuel line on my Poulan S25CVA. This line was only about a year old, so take it from me don't use the crap, clear line I used at that time.

This time I used Oregon brand Tygon style line, .117 ID and .211OD. This is a very common size line that you can get just about anywhere. You need about 16" of it, so if your buying by the foot, just get 24".

The only special tool that I used is a long curved pair of hemostat's, and they sure make the job easier.

The first pictures shows how the line is routed after taking the 3 screws out of the flywheel cover off and removing it.

Notice where and how the line runs through the saw body right above the ign coil. This is the only really tricky spot to conquer.

At this point you need to remove the air filter cover, the flywheel, and remove the old line and pull it from the saw.

The next picture shows how you need to angle cut both ends of your 16" fuel line, and actually I ended up cutting at a more severe angle then what the picture shows.

Next you insert one angled end through the two holes in the saw body above the ign coil.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Next take your hemostat and pull it on through the 2 holes in the saw body.

Next start it through the first hole above it and pull it through it.

Next thread it through the carb housing from underneath and pull it through the top.

Work enough line through till you have enough to reach the carb inlet, cut the end of the line square and attach to the carb.

Now take the other end with the angle cut on it and start it into the hole in the tank and pull on through with the curved hemostat.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Comes through this way.

Now pull the line snug along the saw body, cut to the length you need and install your fuel filter.
This is a Oregon replacement with at 1/8" inlet barb on it. I like a filter a little heavier on a top handle saw so I put a #10 nut on the top to add a little more weight to the filter.

There you go, not hard at all.

 

[Rookie1]

Great job Mark. Very informative. I like the nut on the line trick. Ill have to remember that.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Bravo, Sir! All that fuel line routing looked hard. Possibly a four-beer job for those of us who are not so dextrous.

 

[4seasons]

That was too easy

I just did this job myself but slightly different.
I started at the carb and worked back. I didn't have to remove the flywheel just grabbed the line with needle nose pliers and feed it from the back through the 2 hoops by the ignition. ( I cheated and drilled them out one size) I couldn't get to the inside of the fuel tank with my pliers so I took the tank apart. (Just 5 or 6 screws) Haven't seen any need for a nut on the filter though. Was your filter floating or something? I was out of threadlocker when I put it back together. First time I used it I lost a couple screws. Trip to Lowes for screws and Locktite and she is good as new.

 

[BrocLuno]

Excellent post - thanks.

I have one in the guise of a Craftsman. Nice saw. I need to rebuild the carb, so maybe I'll do the line too

 

[Nitro-Fish]

I've done a few of these replacements & one kind of suprised me; the line where it entered the tank had a small brass splice fitting on it right where the line went through the hole in the tank, if you run across one that the line doesn't want to pull out of the tank, thats probably the problem. All you have to do is cut the line and push it back into the tank, make sure & fish it out though, the new line doesnt need the fitting. BTW Mark, the points version of these saws only has one hole to go through at the location of picture #3. Instead of taking the tank apart (like 4seasons did), I cut the fuel line at an angle as you did and, I then take a piece of fishing line and tie it around the fuel line about halfway up the angled cut (lets you start the line in the tank hole), thread the fishing line into the tank & out the filler hole, give it a pull until you can grab the fuel line, pull in the excess, cut it off straight, put the filter on & you're done! BTW, thats a clean looking 25!

 

[Nitro-Fish]

I have one in the guise of a Craftsman. Nice saw. I need to rebuild the carb, so maybe I'll do the line too

You may not need a carb rebuild, pull the cover off the carb (careful not to mess up the gasket) & check the inlet screen, especially if you're not the original owner. I've seen where the filter breaks off in the tank, but the fuel line is stiff enough to stay in the bottom of the tank, the people keep running them without knowing there's no filter on them (they usually complain that the saw has to be filled up when they hit half a tank, and thats dead giveaway) & it clogs up the intake screen on the carb.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I've done a few of these replacements & one kind of suprised me; the line where it entered the tank had a small brass splice fitting on it right where the line went through the hole in the tank, if you run across one that the line doesn't want to pull out of the tank, thats probably the problem. All you have to do is cut the line and push it back into the tank, make sure & fish it out though, the new line doesnt need the fitting. BTW Mark, the points version of these saws only has one hole to go through at the location of picture #3. Instead of taking the tank apart (like 4seasons did), I cut the fuel line at an angle as you did and, I then take a piece of fishing line and tie it around the fuel line about halfway up the angled cut (lets you start the line in the tank hole), thread the fishing line into the tank & out the filler hole, give it a pull until you can grab the fuel line, pull in the excess, cut it off straight, put the filter on & you're done! BTW, thats a clean looking 25!

I never seen the brass fitting you spoke of, probably been added by some jamoke through the years?

I'm not sure on the single loop, maybe it is just the points saws, been a while since I had one of them, but this saw is a CVA version, so that can play into the difference also.

This brand and size line would make it hard to do the fish line trick you speak of, it's too tight through the holes for sure, but I like it best this way. No way will it leak where it goes through the tank. Might be worth a try though if you don't have a pair of hemostat's.

No way would I ever take the tank apart on one unless I had to. Those tank gaskets are too fragile, to hard to make and too hard to find new!

4seasons, said he drilled the "hoops" out to make it easy to pull the line through, I wouldn't do that either as there suppose to be tight to keep the slack out of the line to keep it from drooping and kinking at the bends.

All in all if you know what your doing ahead of time, anyone could R&R the line in about 10 min or so the way I do it.

Thanks for the compliment on the saw, it is very clean, probably never used much before I picked it up. My first one was with me for over 25 years of lots of use before it finally wore out! (dropping it out of a tree didn't help it much either) Liked it so much I had to get another.

In fact what got me going after it today was, I needed to finish taking some pictures of the decals on it for a guy who reproduces saw decals.

 

[purdyite]

Fixed one of these recently

I have this saw, not the DA, mine is "Super Deluxe" XXV with no chain brake. Not sure when manufactured. It was sucking air through the crankcase seal and running away with itself. No gaskets, so I made one by coloring the sealing edge of the crankcasewith a magic marker and placing gasket material on it, then cut off what wasn't black. Used some Permatex on the gasket and the thing runs like it's well-behaved now. Makes a good swinging saw!

 

[knockbill]

i have a a fitting at the fuel tank of my saw also,,, i put it in last year when i got teh saw and replaced teh lines,,, teh saw dealer near me only had metric (echo, i think) fuel line, so i cut a length, put a fitting in it from the outside of the tank, and pushed the line in the tank with the fitting outside to snug fit the hole so it wouldn't leak, then hooked teh line to carb to the fitting,, works fine, so far...
now that i've found this forum, i know where to get the right size fuel line next time...

 

[redunshee]

Great job Mark. Very informative. I like the nut on the line trick. Ill have to remember that.

Mark's the man for Poulans. Saved me alot of time

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark's the man for Poulans. Saved me alot of time

Oh, no! I've been labled :jawdrop: I got other saw's than Poulans too!

Seriously, glad to help when I can.

 

[67 Mustang]

Oh, no! I've been labled :jawdrop: I got other saw's than Poulans too!

Seriously, glad to help when I can.

I think the correct term in your case is "Marked" not labeled. LOL
I too appreciate all the help with the Poulans.

 

[burnt03]

This is my first post and I'm bringing an OLD thread back to life with a simple question...

I have to replace the fuel line in my S25D (a little different, routes through the handle and the fuel tank is plastic). I had a heck of a time pulling the old line out of the tank (through the drilled hole). With the new stuff (size quoted above), will it just thread through and be just tight enough to prevent fuel leaking out when being used?

Thanks!

 

[Modifiedmark]

This is my first post and I'm bringing an OLD thread back to life with a simple question...

I have to replace the fuel line in my S25D (a little different, routes through the handle and the fuel tank is plastic). I had a heck of a time pulling the old line out of the tank (through the drilled hole). With the new stuff (size quoted above), will it just thread through and be just tight enough to prevent fuel leaking out when being used?

Thanks!

If you got a plastic tank, you do not have a S25D saw. You have a Micro XXV or Micro 25 which ever way you want to say it.

Here the instruction thread for those.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/157888.htm

 

[burnt03]

Great, thanks!