Poulan s25da Won't Pull Fuel Through New Tygon Hose

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fhafer

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Background:
I bought an old Poulan s25da off of Craig'sList. Both the duckbill and air cleaner foam filter crumbled when I touched them. The fuel tank was empty with no signs of residue in the tank. The fuel line has hard/brittle/discolored. The bar oil reservoir was a 1/4 full of very dark, tar like bar oil. The saw has paint on all the screws and looks very lightly used. It was found in the attic of a local house in a box full of old newspapers from the mid to late 1970s.

Today:
Thanks to a big assist from Mark Myers providing me the service manual, I purchased and installed new 3/16" X 3/32" Tygon hose. When I removed the old hose from the fuel filter barb, I found the hose barb clogged with a putty-like substance. I suspect it was old residual fuel mix that hardened. I cleaned it out of the filter barb and ran/routed the new Tygon hose as directed. Then I filled the fuel tank with fresh 16:1 0E fuel.

The manual bar oiler was stuck/frozen due to old gummy bar oil. I drained the old bar oil from the oil reservoir and added about a teaspoon full of 16:1 I shook it around, let it set for twenty minutes, and drained it out. I filled the oil reservoir with detergent 10W30 motor oil and slowly pressed the manual oiler until I got a full stroke of the button and a good amount of oil deliverd to the bar.

Problem:
The saw won't pull fuel from the tank. Despite the missing duckbill, I know the tank is venting well because fuel will drip out of the fuel cap if you tip the saw. All hose connections are very tight. I had to use an electric heat gun to warm them up enough to get them to slip on. After several (12-15) pulls on the rope and seeing no fuel being drawn up the hose in the air box, I poured a small amount of fuel into the throat of the carb, set the choke to on, and pulled the rope. The saw fired off on the second pull and died. I did this three more times and got the same results.

Assumption:
I think the carburetor diaphragm pump is age hardened and I need a rebuild. What do you think and does anyone have a lead on a good place to acquire a new/rebuilt carb or just a carb rebuild kit for this old saw?

Thank you for your time,
Weedhopper
 
A NOS or rebuilt WT-20 will probably be $40. A K-10 WAT kit is $3 - $8.
For the cheap route - I've adapted an MS180 carb (can be hard for $6-10). It required drilling a new throttle link hole and removing the choke rod and plate, then filling in those holes with small bolts. And you can adapt an MS250 carb but have the extra step of drilling out the center brass impulse plug and JB welding in the 1:30 o'c hole.
 
It had the OEM fuel filter; an aluminum center section with a replacable fiber sleeve which slides over the barb assembly. The fiber filter was like new...I just slide it off and cleaned the aluminum.
 
I'll look at a new WT-20...I think the saw is worth the $40.00. I'll rebuild the original carb and save it for a spare. Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy the carb? Not a big fan of Ebay, but I'll go there if there aren't any better options.

Thank you for all the feedback gentlemen!

Cheers,
Weedhopper
 
It had the OEM fuel filter; an aluminum center section with a replacable fiber sleeve which slides over the barb assembly. The fiber filter was like new...I just slide it off and cleaned the aluminum.

Thats right, you can clean those felts to a point, spray it down good with carb cleaner and then blow it out with a blow gun. Those felts are still available from Oregon so you know.

Back to the carb, not a big deal and like you say stiff diaphragms will keep it from pumping fuel.

A K-10 WAT kit is one of the most common kits around and any small engine shop around worth anything should have one on the shelf. FWIW I have used tons of aftermarket K-10 kits without any issues.

The kit will come with way more parts then you need as there kind of a universal kit that fits many 2 different carbs and many versions of both. Just match up the parts out of your carb to the parts in the kit and your good to go.
 
Carb rebuild kit on the way from Northwood Saw and new air & fuel filter on the way from Bailey's! Gonna get this little booger in the woods after the New Year!
 
I just went through the exact same thing with reviving an old S25CV yesterday, but the felt fuel filter was loose on the filter frame, and silt had bypassed & blinded the little carb inlet screen. Would not pull any fuel up the line.

I used a Forester #18157 (K10-WAT) aftermarket carb kit to rebuild the Walbro WA19A carb, and had to file a little off the stamped aluminum metering lever end, as it was too long and hung up on the circuit plate. Starts & cuts very well now.

First time I've ever had an issue with parts from aftermarket carb kit.
 
That thing will run like new when you rebuild the carb. Just remember the metering diaphragm goes on top of the gasket and the pump diaphragm goes under the gasket.
 
I received the WALBORO K10-WAT kits yesterday from Northwood Saw! Yay!!! I went to rebuild the carb this morning and I removed the Tillotson HU10A carburetor...booo!

Drats. I guess I need to buy a Tillotson RK14HU

Merry Christmas everyone!
 
I received the WALBORO K10-WAT kits yesterday from Northwood Saw! Yay!!! I went to rebuild the carb this morning and I removed the Tillotson HU10A carburetor...booo!

Drats. I guess I need to buy a Tillotson RK14HU

Merry Christmas everyone!
Do this enough you'll learn to look before you leap. :dumb: At least the K10-WAT is a commonly used kit; you just got a kit on hand for later use.

I not like me ordering a hydraulic jack and when I open the box from Northern Tools I found 12 ball peen hammers instead. They are already on their way back.
 
New RK14HU kit on its way from Northwood Saw; should be here on Wednesday. Carb is disassembled and cleaned.
 
Installed the new Tillotson kit and it still won't pull fuel. The duckbill is missing and I can see through the fuel cap. I can disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor barb and easily suck fuel up the hose and blow bubbles into the tank. The tank is full. The filter felt is new. I put the metering diaphragm on top of the gasket and the pump diaphragm under the gasket just like the Tillotson diagram shows. When I put fuel down the carb the saw fires and runs, but wont draw fuel up the hose. When I cleaned the carb I inspected each passage and shot carb cleaner through each port/passage; it was clean. While I had the needle valve out I checked the screen and it was clear; I replaced it anyways. Carb to cylinder gasket is also new. Stumped.

Should I try another rebuild kit?
 
put your thumb over the hole on the cap.... you can also prime the saw with mixed fuel i use a syringe... some times after a few fire ups it will pull fuel.....opps i see you primed it how many times did your prime it?
 
Metering diaphragm goes against the body of the carb, and the pump diaphragm goes against the cover. If those are backwards it will certainly have problems. Check the height of the needle lever. Any of these can cause headaches. I just rebuilt one of these, but it was orange and said Dayton...
 
put your thumb over the hole on the cap.... you can also prime the saw with mixed fuel i use a syringe... some times after a few fire ups it will pull fuel.....opps i see you primed it how many times did your prime it?
What he said... Mine would not pull fuel until I "primed" it a few times. No problems ever since.
 

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