bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Anyone who has run both see a difference in longevity and wear? I seem to be flyin through power match bars lately and was curious if there is any more to the pro bars than a higher price. Thanks!
Power match vs. Oregon pro bars?
- Thread starter bitzer
- Start date
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cottonwood1
ArboristSite Lurker
I have and do run both, the pro bar seems to last longer, but in my opinion not enough that I will get another one on the next buy. Again this is my opinion only.
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
Bar wear confuses me. I usually buy what's on clearance at baileys, which are generally rebranded power match solid bars. Some last 3 years, some 3 months. I guess it's a quality control issue. I only shelled out the money for an expensive bar once, pinched it to death with bad technique, and have been cheap n' solid ever since
lumberjack48
ArboristSite Operative
I had my best luck with Windsor/Sandvik, Carlton speed-tip bars. The main thing is do not grease it.
I have an Oregon pro in the mail. It will be my first so I will be interesting to compare. For what I payed it better be nice! Last bar purchased was a stihl es, and I'm rather disappointed with it. I hear a lot of negative stuff about the power match bars but the last few I have had where excellent. I like them over the stihl bars.. After I get some miles on the pro il Share my feelings.
forestryworks
Addicted to ArboristSite
The last power match I had was junk, rails wore quick and tips got sloppy - even with regular maintenance. But that was a while ago, around the same time California Bob and a few others spoke ill of them. Was gonna buy a Pro but got a Stihl lightweight instead. Never looked back.
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J
jrcat
Guest
I know some guys that use those "forestry pro" bars and the "laser pro" bars. I Use husqvarna bars on my husqvarna's and I just dug out an old sthil 041 for my brother to use around home and put a stihl es bar on that.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
My saw shop owner told me that Oregon was making Stihl bars as well as their own for a while. The increased demand sent production overseas leading to the decline in quality. Sounds possible to me. It just seems that bars and tips have been hit and miss for a while now. I ran my last tip off the bar way too early. I know if I want real quality I'd have to spring for a Cannon, but 250 bucks is a lot to swallow for a 32" bar.
Ted that'd be great if you let me know what you think.
Thanks for the replys!
Ted that'd be great if you let me know what you think.
Thanks for the replys!
250? I just got a 42 woodland pro,(cannon) for 200.
plasticweld
ArboristSite Member
We have been going through tips lately way to fast, I am going to try the Windsor bars with the Carlton tip next time, we are currently using the Forestry Specials and Oregon bars both I would call junk considering how little use we are getting before having to replace the tips. I thought that if I spent the extra money on the Oregon bars they would last longer, I see no difference between the two
hammerlogging
Addicted to ArboristSite
Madsen's told me the Oregon Pro was the same as a powermatch, so, dissapointed, I never went with one. Good looking bar though. I'll be interested to see how the kid's runs. I seem to stick with cannon now but nowhere near $250, I'd say my 34" .063 is about $160 to $175. Always replace the tips with oregon on the cannons, once the first one runs through. I don't know what it is but the cannon tips eat their rivets. and yes, I know they take their own rivets, jees, sounds like chainsaw forum crap you wish you were already thinking...
I hope Oregon has solved the quality control problems on their bars. I don't know about the shorter bars but the last two 36s I bought were junk.
Like forestryworks said...the rails wore down way too soon. I even bent one carrying the saw on my shoulder. I wrote to Oregon about it and never heard a word back.
I run Stihl bars now. They seem to hold up better. And the Stihl Lite bar is way tougher than the Oregon lite weight.
Well ****. Only reason I got a pro was because they didn't seem to have any powermatch pluses in stock.. we'll see I guess..
I experienced both issues you stated with the last 32" stihl I bought. The tip burrs up daily as well.
Well I take that back, the bending was from rolling the chain off and on. Still, that's weak...
Hey Ted....it's only money. :msp_biggrin:
hammerlogging
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm hoping its going to be great. it'll be fine at the very least, and plenty cool anyhow. which has approximately no value, but I'll pretend it does.
Now someone find me a tsumura or a sugihara 34" .063 stihl mount please?
Id love to be able to keep some once in a while Bob.
Yup. When that brand new Oregon bar bent on me before I even cut a lick I couldn't believe it. I packed in quite a ways and on my first tree I was having trouble matching my cuts. I figured I was just clumsy and didn't pay much attention. Even us old guys miss one every now and then.
The 660 sounded like it was working a little hard too and it wasn't cutting like I was used to.When I finished the face I shut it off and took a look at the bar. Bent. And bent pretty good too. And it was bent in the direction it would have been from the way I carried it. I usually pack with the power head back a little to keep the dawgs out of my neck but I have never ever had a bar bend just packing it on my shoulder.
You do! You get to keep some...just enough to get you back to the woods the next day.:msp_biggrin:
My cutting pard got pinched and I had to cut him out. His powermatch plus ended up bent 90degrees stuck in the butt. I cut it out and BOING it sprung back with only a few degrees of radius. He was able to bend on it and get it to work well enough to be a backup. that was a few months ago..
Are the scientists down at Oregon on the wine or what?
Are the scientists down at Oregon on the wine or what?
