Prime, #1, #2, ect.

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gregfox

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Trying to learn all I can about logging and logs. What is the difference between prime and #1,#2,#3 grade logs? Can you tell by just looking at them or do they need to be sawed to tell? Does it have to do with the size of the logs? I was offered $.40 per board foot on a few thousand feet of big bur oak. I logged, they haul. According to state averages via Purdue University its on the low end. But the mills around here are non respondant or not interested. Also what does it take for veneer grade logs? Thanks
 
It takes amazing burr oaks to get grade and I don't think they veneer burr oak, they won't down here in Kentucky and Illinois, very rarely can you "sneak" a burr oak in with a lot of white oak.

We are getting .33 cents for burr oak tie logs and blocking, we load and they haul and that is pretty good for around here.

For what its worth,

Sam
 
This question is best answered by a forester or a logger in your area that's familiar with your local timber and who knows the market.

Let us know what you find out.

There should be some cheat sheets or books with the explanation of what each grade is. I know we used to carry a laminated card with the definitions of each grade on it around while cruising.
 
If , like the man said, it takes a damn nice Burr oak to get "grade", then $400 per thousand on the landing is a decent price IMO.

Grade depends on size, age, heart, sweep, insect damages, knots, how many faces are clear, and whether or not the mills actually need the wood.

If the mill needs wood, it's amazing how the grade can be bumped up a notch...scale too..
 
Worth noting: cruised grade and scaled grade are never the same, and milled never matches either. It's all just best estimates until the log is cut into lumber.

Mills always grade on the safe side. Always. A buyer with a concentration yard- middle man if you like- will do a bit better. He has to compete for the wood..and the mills trust him to not short them too bad.
 
I pried as hard as I could for info while he was here to bid. A few logs are 30" on the small end slight curve and even split on the top end from the storm that took the top off of the ~161yr old trees. Others were 26-28" on the small end straight as an arrow with no knots at all. I asked if the straight ones with no knots were worth more and he told me this was all getting turned into lumber and he didn't care if it had 10 knots in a log, all worth the same. He also said bur oak is tougher is why they(his mill/buyers?) like it. I was thinking decorative/furniture when I saw the wood but his comments make me think utility wood. What do you guys think?
 
He is correct burr oak is used for horse stalls or fence rails. Best used for the top rail for horses that crib. The amish love it for barns, as it is cheaper than most oaks and tougher. We are getting 55 cents for grade red and white oak mix with a few burrs thrown in so your straight burr oak price of 40 cents is not bad at all.

Also does it have mineral deposits or shake and spots in the little end are other grade determining factor's.

Sam
 
When you say "grade" red and white oak, is that straight through for all grades above pallet?
And is that delivered in to the mill- but before the trucking is deducted? You pay the landowner out of the remainder?

Here in NH and Maine, we almost always sell to the concentration yards by grade.
Top grade Veneer is around $1200 a thousand. If you get 1000 feet of it off the average 50 acre lot, you did well. The scaling and grading specs are damn hard to meet.
The best part of the oak here will scale out to be #1 and #2 sawlog. Maybe 50% of the oak sent in. Then 30% pallet. The rest is spread over select, prime, A veneer, AA veneer, and the top AAA veneer.
Last I looked, #1 sawlog was $450 delivered in, but that was a while ago. Deduct trucking and landowner stumpage from that.
 
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