Problem with Echo CS-590 Chainsaw

[chainy]

Hi All,

I wanted to make a post because I am having some trouble getting my Echo CS-590 chainsaw to run (2 years old). I like to think I am fairly decent mechanically but I can't seem to get the saw to run. I will give a rundown of what I have done so far and the troubleshooting I have performed.

Context: Saw was running fine last year, won't start this year. Wasn't winterized (carb right)

-Drained old fuel out of the tank
-Pulled carb, did a full clean with carb cleaner. Blew out all jets and inlets. Gaskets seemed fine and pliable.
-Replaced spark plug
-Saw does have a spark when pulled and tested on metal
-Saw does kick and run when fuel is poured into the sparkplug/carb intake.
-Ensured saw is not flooded - dried out cylinder and tried to fire again.
-Cleaned spark arrestor
-Compression seems fine when I do the pull starter test, pull start can hold the weight of the saw.
-Gas tank does seal and pressure when air is blown into the fuel line and fuel comes out of the line
-Replaced fuel filter

Saw doesn't want to run on its own. Based on my troubleshooting, it must be a fuel issue. When I open the carb it does seem like it's getting fuel into it but obviously won't run. I have ordered new gaskets to replace in the carb but honestly the gaskets "seem" fine.

Is there anything I am missing here, any tips or troubleshooting I am missing?

 

[farmer steve]

Hi chainy. Welcome to AS. I'm not much of an echo guy but we'll see if we can get this moved to chainsaw forum for better exposure by a mod. Lots of good echo guys there. @pioneerguy600 .

 

[chainy]

Thanks so much for your help - appreciate that. Looking for some help from the experts!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hi chainy. Welcome to AS. I'm not much of an echo guy but we'll see if we can get this moved to chainsaw forum for better exposure by a mod. Lots of good echo guys there. @pioneerguy600 .

Done.

 

[cuinrearview]

Impulse? What's it do with the air filter removed? Did you try it with the original plug?

 

[chainy]

Hi All,

Just replaced the gaskets in the carb and did another clean and a full blow through with compressed air. Still no start. I tried to run some fuel through the carb throat to see if that would get it going but still no go. It sputters and runs for less than a second but wont get fuel on its own.

It does seem to be dripping fuel/chain oil, is there any chance this saw is super flooded or anything like that? I don't think so since when I put a little fuel down the carb it kicks on.

Ive tried with air filter and no air filter and I swapped out old and new plugin after I rebuilt the carb.

I am thinking it must be an impulse situation? How do I explore that?

 

[chainy]

The only thing I can think of - this is my father in law's saw and he cuts ice with it for a yearly polar bear dip. I know probably the worst thing you can do to a saw, could that be something that caused this issue?

 

[Woodanhor]

The only thing I can think of - this is my father in law's saw and he cuts ice with it for a yearly polar bear dip. I know probably the worst thing you can do to a saw, could that be something that caused this issue?

Have you adjusted the carb?
Have you replaced any fuel lines?
I would check or replace the line to the carb

 

[chainy]

I pulled the H and L screws out to ensure I cleaned them just in case. I put them back to factory default. Just past 1.5 for L and 5/8 H. When I put the rebuilt carb back on and tried to start it I didn't smell any fuel. My guess is it's still not getting fuel.

I havent't replaced any fuel lines yet but I did pull the fuel filter off for now just in case that was the issue- plan to replace that if running.

 

[Woodanhor]

I pulled the H and L screws out to ensure I cleaned them just in case. I put them back to factory default. Just past 1.5 for L and 5/8 H. When I put the rebuilt carb back on and tried to start it I didn't smell any fuel. My guess is it's still not getting fuel.

I havent't replaced any fuel lines yet but I did pull the fuel filter off for now just in case that was the issue- plan to replace that if running.

I went back and edited I'd look at the fuel line from tank to carb

Also google your starting carb adjustment settings to double check the low needs to be enough to get fuel

Also the idle screw should just engage if you need to set that I can get you better instructions

 

[chainy]

When I blow into the carb to gas tank line, it pressurizes and fuel flows out. So I feel like that would be good enough?

Yah ive googled around a little bit about the L it seems that there is some consensus with 1 turn to just past 1.5 turns. Ive tried both still no go.

Idle screw I might need more advice on. Part of me is worried that there are bigger problems?

 

[Woodanhor]

When I blow into the carb to gas tank line, it pressurizes and fuel flows out. So I feel like that would be good enough?

Its gotta hold a tight seal for example the end of the line gets weak and doesn't hold tight on the plastic barb
It wont pull fuel

Im pretty sure its a fuel delivery or carb issue if it fires when you give it sqirt of gas then thats a good sign

 

[holeycow]

The only thing I can think of - this is my father in law's saw and he cuts ice with it for a yearly polar bear dip. I know probably the worst thing you can do to a saw, could that be something that caused this issue?

That doesn't hurt a saw, jftr. Unless it sucks water.

Try 2 turns out on low screw...if I remember correctly, my 590 is somewhere near there?

Have you pulled the muffler to check the exhaust side of the piston? You've obviously inspected the intake side. I may have missed that info in your queries?

 

[SteveSr]

Just replaced the gaskets in the carb and did another clean and a full blow through with compressed air. Still no start.

Hitting a carb with compressed air is a good way to ruin it. a strict NO-NO! You probably either damaged or blew the main nozzle check valve away.

Also you should NOT be able to blow into the fuel inlet on the carb unless it is defective or assembled wrong. Inlet should hold 7-10 psi indefinitely.

 

[mountainlake]

I've heard of the impulse line coming off the cylinder, check that or put a dab of grease on the ends of the impulse line, with the plug in it should blow off when pulled over. Steve

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

Don't Echos have like a 5 yr warranty?

Sent from my SM-T377P using Tapatalk

 

[pioneerguy600]

Don't Echos have like a 5 yr warranty?

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[Woodanhor]

Don't Echos have like a 5 yr warranty?

Sent from my SM-T377P using Tapatalk

Creamsicles are the bestest saws ever
And all equipment companies should be covering fuel issues its not the consumers fault gas should stay fresh forever

 

[Silmaril]

Warranty won't cover fuel related issue. It's not the manufacturers fault the fuel that goes in their product is no good. The consumer adds the fuel, not the manufacturer. Keep in mind that every warranty on every thing every made covers against MANUFCATURERS DEFECTS ONLY. The manufacturer didn't make the fuel. Plus they are being controlled by EPA as well on fuel matters. Fuel in our country is extremely poor and full of additives that do not help small carbureted engines.

Now that I'm off the warranty soap box, I think at this point in what you have done the next logical step would be to have an actual compression check done. I know you did a pull test but I've never found the idea of replacing parts for an issue that compression could be causing BEFORE compression is verified to make any sense.

If it is good (factory compression recommendation for CS-590 is 130-160) then I would be at the point of considering a new carburetor, provided everything else you have done is all good. Issues with the engine pulse aren't common and normally happen when someone takes an engine apart and doesn't put it back together right causing the pulse line to get blocked. Again, not common.

Let me know how that goes. I am a certified Echo tech.

 

[simonmeridew]

if carburetor is the problem, changing the pulse side and the reed valve side doesn't finish the rehab: tear it down completely and find a friend with an ultrasonic cleaner. Or but one on ebay for $40. and buzz it with some anti grease detergent for 5 minutes, carefully re-assemble and start it up. there are very small orifices in the body of the carby that will clog up with ethanol gas and it's the only way to clean up. Also the needle valve on the pump side should be very free and set to the right height; the lever should be set level with a straightedge. The needle valve lever that pivots on the rod needs to rotate on the rod with no runout, and without binding.This is micro adjustable to remedy.