Production Falling and Toping

[Sethro]

I have always been a stiff one on running a sharpe chain and true bars but lately working in the woods(2- 084's) ,I have been lowering the rackers just to keep the cuts going with a dull chain,2 fallers and 2 skidders ,104 hardwood trees is the best so far. Thus working amounst a Timbco processer and 2 Tree farmers(forwarders) who is bulling softwood pulp logs,well the computer and bar code scanner basiclly does it on dia.
Ya sure it's hard on the bar and sprocket,tip but it is money in the bank.The GB and Cannnon bars hold to the test

 

[MasterBlaster]

My rakers get lowered by the third filing... sometimes sooner!

 

[a_lopa]

third, i always give one brush on the first

 

[MasterBlaster]

That's crazy talk, man!

 

[logcutter429]

I always hit mine first thing on a new chain too, works for me.

 

[JimL]

Hit mine on a new chain just a lick.

I don't cut with a dull chain.
takes all of 2 minutes to stop and sharpen, and i should be good for a hour or 2. at least.
\

 

[wiley_p]

About 15 years ago I was taking a falling test with a Dunkard (some of the best fallers in the Stanislaus) and he told me my chain was dull after he passed me, I got pissed, what with me knowing everything at the time and the reason I got mad was I knew my handfilijng wasn't the best so I put on a new chain thinking that will pass muster, He kindly informed me that a new Stihl chain the rakers are too high and that taking them down just a touch is proper, been thAT way ever since.

 

[MasterBlaster]

First thing, eh? I'll have to give it a shot.

 

[wiley_p]

MB, its just a touch though, as in 1/2" forward cut with a raker file.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Gotcha!

 

[glens]

Butch, if you're doing mainly softwoods then that's good advice (lowering the depth guides, but I think free-hand is a risky proposition).  I've found that the guides are a little low on new Stihl RS chain for hardwoods (I'm not a production sawyer, and that's really what this thread's about).  I use the Husqv depth-setting gauge, designed for Oregon chain which has a steeper decline on the top plate than does the Stihl chain.  Effectively the progressive settings are slightly higher and I prefer it greatly.  It takes a few filings to catch down with the depth guide.

Glen

 

[Bill G]

Originally posted by nelsonfrye
Thus working amounst a Timbco processer and 2 Tree farmers(forwarders) who is bulling softwood pulp logs,well the computer and bar code scanner basiclly does it on dia.

Processers in SW Wisconsin ? I know Miller Logging in Dubque IA has feller-bunchers. Is Miller the company cutting the pulpwood ? Miller's unloaded a feller-buncher here about 10 years ago. They were only able to use it a couple times. They did not work well on the steep levees.

Bill

 

[John Ellison]

Dull and Duller

I like to always have several fresh ground chains in the truck. If far from the truck, one with the gas and oil.
If 100% is my best chain and 0 is smoking, dusty, wood burning, dull, I dont like it to go below about a 90% About the only time I would use a 50/80% would be if I only had 1 small tree left, and it was a ways from the truck. Its too easy to change. If I have been cutting with a dull chain I'm probably tired and need a break anyway
I always grind and then fileoplate the rakers of a new
chain. Its seems too much for hardwood though with my grind, so I leave the rakers alone for awhile.

John

 

[Ryan Willock]

I find my Stihl chains just right out of the box. I don't use ANY kind of guide weither I'm touching up a chain or sharping a rocked out one nor do I use one for my rakers.

 

[firtol88]

I just use a Husky sharp force file, does the rakers at the same time.