Project 064

[Cedarkerf]

This is my famous backward running saw. Tearing it down now in pieces. Tank,cylinder,crankcase.
Questions:
1 How loose is normal rod lower bearing. Feels like a lot of play.

2 Whats the best way to clean all the muck out.

3 How much cost involved splitting the cases and having main bearings and rod bearings changed.

Pics of progression. The saw in back is the 064.

 

[Freakingstang]

rod bearing will slide back and forth, but there shouldn't be any up and down movement.

I like to clean them with purple cleaner and a pressure washer before I crack them open to keep the gunk for getting in the case.

If you split the case and do the bearings yourself, you will have roughly 70-80 bucks in STIHL bearings and 20-30 bucks in seals. Worth it if the rest of the saw is in good shape....You are better off getting the compete gasket set that comes with the seals. It is much cheaper than pieceing all the seals and gaskets together seperately.

 

[59Billy]

How's the parts availability for the 064 compared to newer models? I've had my eye on one for a milling saw, but I want to be sure I can keep it running.

 

[Lakeside53]

Everything is still available.

 

[Lakeside53]

This is my famous backward running saw. Tearing it down now in pieces. Tank,cylinder,crankcase.
Questions:
1 How loose is normal rod lower bearing. Feels like a lot of play.

2 Whats the best way to clean all the muck out.

3 How much cost involved splitting the cases and having main bearings and rod bearings changed.

Pics of progression. The saw in back is the 064.

Freaken answered the rod "play" question.

Muck - if you have any "muck" in the crankcase, q-tip it out. You can flush the crankcase extensively by squirting gas mix when upside UPSIDE DOWN. If you swill mix in the lower case, you can push crud into the though the bearings to the seal side. Often it's better to leave most of it alone.


If the crank rotates smoothly with no rough feel or main bearing play, it's probably O.K.


If you dealer has the tools, an your case is out of the saw and ready to work on, you'll likely get billed about an hour plus for disassembly, cleaning, new bearings, seals, and assembly. You cannot replace the rod big-end bearing. If you really want to spllit the case, make your own tools (see as thread "splitting 066 case"), or drive up to me and and I'll do it for a beer or 6.

 

[59Billy]

Everything is still available.

Thanks.

 

[Cedarkerf]

Freaken answered the rod "play" question.

Muck - if you have any "muck" in the crankcase, q-tip it out. You can flush the crankcase extensively by squirting gas mix when upside UPSIDE DOWN. If you swill mix in the lower case, you can push crud into the though the bearings to the seal side. Often it's better to leave most of it alone.


If the crank rotates smoothly with no rough feel or main bearing play, it's probably O.K.


If you dealer has the tools, an your case is out of the saw and ready to work on, you'll likely get billed about an hour plus for disassembly, cleaning, new bearings, seals, and assembly. You cannot replace the rod big-end bearing. If you really want to spllit the case, make your own tools (see as thread "splitting 066 case"), or drive up to me and and I'll do it for a beer or 6.

Main bearings seam smooth lower rod seams loose but I will probably put new pison rings and carb rebuild and see how it goes. Thanks for info and offer. If I find a good crank in the future maybe take you up on it. Lakeside you are a real asset to this site and I appreciate you willingness to share your knowledge