Pulling Trees/Tops With Pulleys: Questions!

[StihlRockin']

Ok, first check out my illustration below:

I'm going with a double pulley on each attachment point. What I would like to know is what is your suggestion for a hook-up point on the front attachment point? (one nearest the tree/top being pulled over)

I've usually used a butterfly knot there and know I can use a bowline-on-a-bight as well. The problem with this is that sometimes there's a lot of rope play and you have to guess just right how much slack you'll need or you'll have to reposition the knot.

I'm considering using some sort of friction knot there instead. That way if I mess up the guessing of slack, etc, all I have to do is reposition with just the slide of the hitch!

I also question the hitch to be able to stay put while I pull the rope with my massive pythons. LOL! Need the friction hitch to stay put!

Your help appreciated.

StihlRockin'

 

[asthesun]

Ok, first check out my illustration below:

I'm going with a double pulley on each attachment point. What I would like to know is what is your suggestion for a hook-up point on the front attachment point? (one nearest the tree/top being pulled over)

I've usually used a butterfly knot there and know I can use a bowline-on-a-bight as well. The problem with this is that sometimes there's a lot of rope play and you have to guess just right how much slack you'll need or you'll have to reposition the knot.

I'm considering using some sort of friction knot there instead. That way if I mess up the guessing of slack, etc, all I have to do is reposition with just the slide of the hitch!

I also question the hitch to be able to stay put while I pull the rope with my massive pythons. LOL! Need the friction hitch to stay put!

Your help appreciated.

StihlRockin'

i cant see your illustration, but i'm guessing you're trying to make a mechanical advantage with rope (rope come-along). using a prusic loop or some such will work for this application, but i'd be careful how much pull you put on it, friction knots will slip under enough stress. if its just one man pulling and not a truck or whole team of men, probably nothing to worry about
edit-oh there, your pic showed now

 

[tree md]

i cant see your illustration, but i'm guessing you're trying to make a mechanical advantage with rope (rope come-along). using a prusic loop or some such will work for this application, but i'd be careful how much pull you put on it, friction knots will slip under enough stress. if its just one man pulling and not a truck or whole team of men, probably nothing to worry about
edit-oh there, your pic showed now

+1

Prussic.

 

[tree md]

I only do this when hand pulling as well. If I am using a truck I'll either tie directly to the truck and get a pull or redirect with a block on the tree and tie to the truck.

 

[StihlRockin']

This is an off-branch from a similar question post I had earlier. In that post I made a point that this is mainly using man-power. I wanted something one man can get a good pull without going into all the more complicated or more expensive tools, etc. Like others, I have ways of pulling trees and tops without this method, but it works for one man and that was my main focus.

Thank you.

StihlRockin'

 

[rbtree]

i cant see your illustration, but i'm guessing you're trying to make a mechanical advantage with rope (rope come-along). using a prusic loop or some such will work for this application, but i'd be careful how much pull you put on it, friction knots will slip under enough stress. if its just one man pulling and not a truck or whole team of men, probably nothing to worry about
edit-oh there, your pic showed now

You have a point. However, I use a long french prussic with a bunch of wraps. never slips, and holds well. I've used 5-1 mech advantage, which could give 1000-2000 pounds of pull with 1-2 men on the kline.

 

[asthesun]

You have a point. However, I use a long french prussic with a bunch of wraps. never slips, and holds well. I've used 5-1 mech advantage, which could give 1000-2000 pounds of pull with 1-2 men on the kline.

i generally just tie a stationary bowline

 

[tree md]

i generally just tie a stationary bowline

I've tried a bowline before but if you are going to tie a midline knot the butterfly is easier to pull apart after being loaded IMO. A prussic is even easier to untie plus it is adjustable.

 

[NCTREE]

i cant see your illustration, but i'm guessing you're trying to make a mechanical advantage with rope (rope come-along). using a prusic loop or some such will work for this application, but i'd be careful how much pull you put on it, friction knots will slip under enough stress. if its just one man pulling and not a truck or whole team of men, probably nothing to worry about
edit-oh there, your pic showed now

Hey man i'm going to be using my system tomorrow. I take some pics to show you what I mean and how I hook it up.

 

[StihlRockin']

Hey man i'm going to be using my system tomorrow. I take some pics to show you what I mean and how I hook it up.

Hey, I'm interested in checking that out too. Good luck!

StihlRockin'

 

[Ghillie]

Hey, I'm interested in checking that out too. Good luck!

StihlRockin'

What size riggin line are you using? I just picked up two double pulleys with beckets the other day and rigged them from my port-a-wrap onto 1/2" 3 strand with 8mm cord in a distel hitch. Probably exceeded the WLL of the 3 strand and the distel did not slip.

 

[StihlRockin']

Hey Ghillie!

Using 1/2" multi-strand with 8,000+lb. break-strength.(climbing line, nothin' fancy)

From what I've seen, and like you're doing, using a smaller diameter cord/line for the friction hitch is a good idea.

Here's the double-pulley with becket I'll be using below:

It is a 2" and with 10K strength. Don't know working-load-limit.

The distel friction hitch looks good:

I don't get the port-a-wrap though. How you using it? I have one and only use it for lowering.... and sometimes belaying a climber.(usually at times when I'm negotiating wages.)

StihlRockin'

 

[Ghillie]

Those are the exact pulleys I just bought. They worked great today.

This is how I rig to lift with the Porty.

Instead of a mechanical rope grab I use a hitch, today I used 7/16" kernmantle to make a 6 wrap prusik onto 3/4" stablebraid. Lifted a Silver maple leader away from a house and dropped it straight down. The leader was ave 14" and about 20 foot long with some branches still attached to the end. I figure about 1250-1500 lbs.

It took two of us to lift it up with the 5:1 after I notched and backcut the leader. My groundie today had never seen such a thing.

I can't afford a GRCS yet so that is what I work with.

 

[masiman]

Did you mean it took two of you hauling on the MA to move the piece? I assume so at a ~300# pull for a 1200# piece. What did you do to keep tension on the MA portion until you can relock the bull line? Third person?

 

[Ghillie]

Did you mean it took two of you hauling on the MA to move the piece? I assume so at a ~300# pull for a 1200# piece. What did you do to keep tension on the MA portion until you can relock the bull line? Third person?

We wrapped the "pull" line 3/4 way around the trunk and I held it while my groundie reset the stablebraid on the porty.

 

[Ghillie]

Did you mean it took two of you hauling on the MA to move the piece? I assume so at a ~300# pull for a 1200# piece. What did you do to keep tension on the MA portion until you can relock the bull line? Third person?

And when the leader was straight up and down, still resting on the hinge wood I left with the facecut and backcut, it doesn't take as much tension on the mechanical advantage to keep it there while the load line was reset in the porty (not that I would try to do it while holding the pull line)

 

[masiman]

Thanks Ghillie.

 

[StihlRockin']

Hey Ghillie,

I just noticed...

We sorta look alike --->

StihlRockin'

 

[Ghillie]

Hey Ghillie,

I just noticed...

We sorta look alike --->

StihlRockin'

:bang: All I see is a red X. :bang:

 

[StihlRockin']

I see more than that.