Put the $24 Tach through its paces today

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Cut4fun

Faster is Better
Joined
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I just got done playing with the little cheap $24 tach today. I had richened up my 066 some for big wood cutting and it tached at 15,460 rpms. I then checked my stock 5000 plus that i had set by ear, it was 13,300 rpms.
I then messed with winter project 5000 and my by ear was way off on it, it tached 15,340 rpms, reset it down to 13,300 now too. Even though I know the max can go to 14K on the 5000's stock.
I then put my husky 357 on the tach. I had just switched it over to 40-1 mix and adjusted the carb by ear a week or so ago to cut up a tree. It was running at 13,800 rpms. Now I know i can lean it out some more. So in all, glad i got it to check my by ear adjustments. I also noticed that if you hold your finger on the top right silver ground on the back you do get alittle quicker readings. It took me 10-15 secs tops.
http://enmco.thomasnet.com/item/enm...?&plpver=1001&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0
 
that's really cool. wish I'd had such a thing with me last night when I fried my saw...didn't know they make such things...but there's lots i don't know.

tell me, were your ears pretty accurate as a ball-park rpm gauge, or were you way off?

james
 
JamesJems said:
that's really cool. wish I'd had such a thing with me last night when I fried my saw...didn't know they make such things...but there's lots i don't know.

tell me, were your ears pretty accurate as a ball-park rpm gauge, or were you way off?

james

Depends on ears and the saw. I am told certain newer saws are tough to set totally by ear.

I am in the camp that says all information is good, and use a tach as a reality check. But I am not the tuner some folks are that do it all day every day. Better safe than sorry.
 
Cut4fun said:
I just got done playing with the little cheap $24 tach today. I had richened up my 066 some for big wood cutting and it tached at 15,460 rpms.


That is higher than would make me comfortable with my 066.
 
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Cut4fun said:
I just got done playing with the little cheap $24 tach today. I had richened up my 066 some for big wood cutting and it tached at 15,460 rpms. I then checked my stock 5000 plus that i had set by ear, it was 13,300 rpms.
I then messed with winter project 5000 and my by ear was way off on it, it tached 15,340 rpms, reset it down to 13,300 now too. Even though I know the max can go to 14K on the 5000's stock.
I then put my husky 357 on the tach. I had just switched it over to 40-1 mix and adjusted the carb by ear a week or so ago to cut up a tree. It was running at 13,800 rpms. Now I know i can lean it out some more. So in all, glad i got it to check my by ear adjustments. I also noticed that if you hold your finger on the top right silver ground on the back you do get alittle quicker readings. It took me 10-15 secs tops.
http://enmco.thomasnet.com/item/enm...?&plpver=1001&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0

Dayummmmmmmmmmm Cut you got that 066 set pretty high there don't ya. Last time I was down at Va Beach they handed me and this other guy a 036 and told us to go outside and fry it. We thought ok, no problem. They had a tach attached to the top of it. We started out at 13,500, then took it to 14,500 and it kept running. We took it to 15,500 and it still wouldn't die. We finally set it at 16,000 on the nose and I held it in my hand wide open till she finally cut off, took about 45 seconds. Fried it real nice. Purpose was to show everyone what a over reved saw will do and look like. In a real long sustained cut that 066 of yours is borderline ole feller.
 
THALL10326 said:
Dayummmmmmmmmmm Cut you got that 066 set pretty high there don't ya. Last time I was down at Va Beach they handed me and this other guy a 036 and told us to go outside and fry it. We thought ok, no problem. They had a tach attached to the top of it. We started out at 13,500, then took it to 14,500 and it kept running. We took it to 15,500 and it still wouldn't die. We finally set it at 16,000 on the nose and I held it in my hand wide open till she finally cut off, took about 45 seconds. Fried it real nice. Purpose was to show everyone what a over reved saw will do and look like. In a real long sustained cut that 066 of yours is borderline ole feller.


Do the fairly modern (last 15 years say) Stihl or Huskies ever throw things when they fry/blow?

Lots of energy wanting to go somewhere at 16,000. I might want a flak jacket to try that. I would have like to listened to that saw at that RPM just for educational reasons, though.
 
I dont know if it makes a difference, but the 066 is woods ported. i even detuned it for the big wood with a 32" bar. That 15k was after I richened it a tad.
Tuning by ear question. I was always under the max rpm for the stock saws. Except on my winter project 5000 which i was way off on. But It isnt 100% right yet and was running wrong anyways. Waiting on a carb kit to get it right.
 
I was gonna say that the thing is modded.

I'm no saw builder guy by any means but have had my share of engine experiences.

When any engine is modded correctly the revs increase.

Imagine a stock 351 V8, you stick your boot into it in neutral and it revs out to say 5500rpm and starts breaking down ... just wont rev more and sounds like it's missing.

You then getter better valve springs, ignition, port and polish the heads after a mild shave, shove in a mild cam etc. Now you hold it flat out it might go to 6800rpm. No blubbering at the old 5500rpm.

Two strokes with mods the same.

So tuning by ear on modded saws means the blubbering 4 stroking effect comes in at a higher RPM, be careful.

I only have a mildly worked 44 and the builder had to 4 stroke it a lot more to ear than normal to get it into a respectable rev range of say 13500rpm to 14000rpm. In wood different story, lots more power and you aint near that peak rev range. Tachs for modded saws are way to go.

Could you post a pic of that tach and is it accurate and reliable, at that price I'll grab one.
 
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B_Turner said:
Do the fairly modern (last 15 years say) Stihl or Huskies ever throw things when they fry/blow?

Lots of energy wanting to go somewhere at 16,000. I might want a flak jacket to try that. I would have like to listened to that saw at that RPM just for educational reasons, though.

It was steadly screaming. The instructor says they burn that same saw up regularly for education purposes. He says he replaces the bottom end on it after every third burn out. Kinda surprised me it ran as long as it did. She was cooking to say the least..
 
Ekka said:
Could you post a pic of that tach and is it accurate and reliable, at that price I'll grab one.
If you buy 3 or more you get 40% off and shipping is free. But i would guess you will have to pay for shipping.
I am going to test it against a friends stihl tach soon to see how accurate it is. Seems ok. Suppose to go to 24K too. Will post a link to the company for you. I mounted mine in a 4"x6" piece of wood panel for easy handling.
http://enmco.thomasnet.com/item/enm...?&plpver=1001&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0
 
Cut4fun said:
I dont know if it makes a difference, but the 066 is woods ported. i even detuned it for the big wood with a 32" bar. That 15k was after I richened it a tad.
Tuning by ear question. I was always under the max rpm for the stock saws. Except on my winter project 5000 which i was way off on. But It isnt 100% right yet and was running wrong anyways. Waiting on a carb kit to get it right.

Cut I know you race that 066 but have you ever put it in a big log where it would need 25-30 seconds go through? I'm asking because the stock spec for a 066 is 13 max and even though yours is modified 15plus is getting on up there ole boy. For a saw that big thats cooking ole feller...
 
THALL10326 said:
Cut I know you race that 066 but have you ever put it in a big log where it would need 25-30 seconds go through? I'm asking because the stock spec for a 066 is 13 max and even though yours is modified 15plus is getting on up there ole boy. For a saw that big thats cooking ole feller...
I did for longer then that in a 40-44 inch maple. Never bogged, but i dont push it in the cut either. I only goof up pushing to hard in the cut making cookies.
It shared time with the 7900 taking that tree down.
 
THALL10326 said:
Cut I know you race that 066 but have you ever put it in a big log where it would need 25-30 seconds go through? I'm asking because the stock spec for a 066 is 13 max and even though yours is modified 15plus is getting on up there ole boy. For a saw that big thats cooking ole feller...

I think I know were your going with this, ol feller, as that would be the best place to start with any saw.

If a timed cut is made at say a 15K "H" screw setting, for a say that cut takes 25 seconds, then set the "H" to for a say 14k and maybe another cookie at a 13K setting, if the saw cut 20 seconds at 14K, and 25K at the 13K setting, there is a good chance that saw wants 13.5k,,,,,, just for a say.

BTW: word in the woods is your saws run real good!
 
Cut4fun said:
I did for longer then that in a 40-44 inch maple. Never bogged, but i dont push it in the cut either. I only goof up pushing to hard in the cut making cookies.
It shared time with the 7900 taking that tree down.

Cool beans. Sounds like that saw can handle it. I had a 660 in the shop last year. Cylinder/piston fried. The man said he ran is one day and it quit. I threw a new cylinder and piston on it. Checked for leaks, none. Fired it up and it was turning 14,300-14,500 rpms. I set that saw back to 12,500 and to date haven't seen the saw since. Your saw being modded must make a differance for I know from dealing with that last stock one, and a few others over the years, most 066/660's wont live long beyond 14,000. Your saw must be tuned in just right and the mods must be allowing enough fuel in it to keep it well lube and cool. Good job ole boy, you got it cooking without damage.
 
ShoerFast said:
I think I know were your going with this, ol feller, as that would be the best place to start with any saw.

If a timed cut is made at say a 15K "H" screw setting, for a say that cut takes 25 seconds, then set the "H" to for a say 14k and maybe another cookie at a 13K setting, if the saw cut 20 seconds at 14K, and 25K at the 13K setting, there is a good chance that saw wants 13.5k,,,,,, just for a say.

BTW: word in the woods is your saws run real good!

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhh okkkkkkkkkkkkkk.,LOLOLOLOL
 
Hey CUT

You trying to race or use a serious saw..? Shall I order you a new piston? How about a jug and a new crank too.

You may be able to WOT your 066 at that RPM, but you're going to melt the piston. Way too lean... ported or not. No enough fan cooling... and your rod big end? hmmm... I have plenty to show you that have failed - insufficient lube at high rpm...


In all seriousness... turn it back... and re-jet it if you have to...
 
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B_Turner said:
Do the fairly modern (last 15 years say) Stihl or Huskies ever throw things when they fry/blow?

Lots of energy wanting to go somewhere at 16,000. I might want a flak jacket to try that. I would have like to listened to that saw at that RPM just for educational reasons, though.


Not typically... but I wouldn't want to be around if the flywheel came apart at 16k... Usually the piston melts into the bore and it just loses power and grinds to a halt. Even a broken crank or rod is relatively unspectacular. I did have a clutch come off at 10k... wow... but I did find all the pieces "up" my driveway with a big bar magnet :)
 
Lake and Thall, wouldnt you go by the plug color of the saw too, like in the 066's case it is tan-biege color, looks like it is burning perfect to me, but has the high rpms. With just a trace of fine black dust like in the exhaust port.

OK, starting to miss the ole barn. Started to rain after only 2 saws run and cut tested. Grrrr. The 305 was at 13,070 rpms and the 3750 was at 13,120 rpms, nice tan-biege plug color too. So i am there by ear tuning. Just didnt sound like they were turning the rpms that the others were. Different sounding muffler roar, i guess.
 
I may be wrong here, but plug color only denotes the proper mixture of fuel. It doesnt compensate for the extra friction created between the rings and jug from the extra RPMs.
 

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