Quartering Large diameters

[JohnCusickjr]

We just got a load of 24-48" red oak logs dropped in our yard for our firewood use that an arborist buddy craned down, . I'm going to quarter the pieced after it's cut to length and my question is what is the best chain to use for this operation. The material is spottless and I'm cutting with a mix of RS semi skip and full comp.
thanks

 

[zemmo]

We just got a load of 24-48" red oak logs dropped in our yard for our firewood use that an arborist buddy craned down, . I'm going to quarter the pieced after it's cut to length and my question is what is the best chain to use for this operation. The material is spottless and I'm cutting with a mix of RS semi skip and full comp.
thanks

Either works fine, if it's really clean I'd probably use the round chisel. Lay the rounds on their sides, goes a lot quicker. I've been doing the same thing to some gnarly Emory oak I've got, but mine is only 17" max.

 

[Lakeside53]

yep.. just adjust you feed rate such that the curly ques don't get jambed up. Skip chisel clears slightly better. I find square ground chisel to be the best to this type of work, but they all work +/-

 

[JohnCusickjr]

Thanks guys. Off to have some fun in the snow flurries. Have a good afternoon...
Jc

 

[SawTroll]

As is said, do it from the side, not from the end - and you can use normal chains.

In addition to the advise you already got, it will also help to cut at a slight angle, making the "curlies" a bit shorter.

Preferably use a saw that is as "clean" as possible under the clutch cover, ie one with inboard clutch........ :biggrinbounce2:

 

[Lakeside53]

....and, to state the obvious, if you do (you will) get jambed up, make sure the brake is ON (or the saw off) before you start pawing at the packed curlies... way too easy to reach down and just start pulling...

 

[GitWood]

Splitting maul. Not as much fun, but much faster except where knots and really nasty grain are involved.

 

[SawTroll]

Splitting maul. Not as much fun, but much faster except where knots and really nasty grain are involved.

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

I usually only cut those those that look like they don't want to split........

 

[goof008]

I'll at least cut them in half...on thier side, then use the maul...if it's really big I slice it while it on it's side. It gives you nice square pieces that are easy to stack!

 

[Woodsrover]

I Agree with Gitwood. If a wedge and a sledge won't half them, start chipping at the sides. I just split a pile of black cherry 24"-30" like that. Take a chip off the side and keep working around the block. Shouldn't have to take more than one swing unless you come accross a knot.

Jim

 

[wdchuck]

I run a groove about bar deep on the cut face, like scoring a pizza, so the slices will end up at a manageable wieght, then use two wedges to split from there, the score grooves hold the wedges in place. Firewood is 20" long, no mauling.

 

[KMB]

... way too easy to reach down and just start pulling...

I heard that! I've been tempted...when in a hurry...but quickly (and wisely) decided against it. Shut'er down first.

Kevin

 

[zemmo]

I run a groove about bar deep on the cut face, like scoring a pizza, so the slices will end up at a manageable wieght, then use two wedges to split from there, the score grooves hold the wedges in place. Firewood is 20" long, no mauling.

Yeah, that works. I've been splitting a couple of species of live oak, one splits pretty well, but the other (Emory) is just really twisted and stringy. I had never used a saw to split rounds until I started working with this stuff. At first I tried just cutting a kerf a few inches like you say, but even that wouldn't do it with wedges. One of the locals told me you have to cut half way thru it, and that does work, but in the time it takes to rip it halfway down from the top I can easily cut thru the whole round on its side. I usually give them up to about 10-12 whacks with a big maul and if they don't show any sign of splitting I take the 7900 to them. THAT splits them every time.

 

[habanero]

I run a groove about bar deep on the cut face, like scoring a pizza, so the slices will end up at a manageable wieght, then use two wedges to split from there, the score grooves hold the wedges in place. Firewood is 20" long, no mauling.

I do the same thing on real big stuff. For smaller, but still too big to lift, logs I just chunk some slabs off the side with the splitting maul.

 

[upandcommer]

just did a 33" sugar maple at the folks house the other weekend if the sledge and wedges didn't do it then i simply cut it through about 1/4 then inserted the wedge into the kerf and three hits finished the split str8 grain is awesome nothing like hearing a big boy like that pop and crackle as the wedge does it's thing. i used stihl rs as the safety chains make curly clearence almost imposible.

 

[Woodie]

Yeah, that works. I've been splitting a couple of species of live oak, one splits pretty well, but the other (Emory) is just really twisted and stringy. I had never used a saw to split rounds until I started working with this stuff. At first I tried just cutting a kerf a few inches like you say, but even that wouldn't do it with wedges.

For my money, nothing is a greater insult to your manhood than to try to split elm with a maul or wedge/sledge. I burn mostly ash, and it splits like a dream. Occasionally stringy, but one good whack'll do ya.

Cleaning up behind some city tree crews, I mistakenly grabbed some of what I later found out was elm. No "D" holes...shoulda known it wasn't ash!

First time I hit it with a maul, no love. Second time I used more force than I thought was necessary, still no love. Third time, I was bringing the house--the maul literally bounced upwards. Coulda sworn it laughed on the "upswing."

I use a 10 lb maul on ash, and a "70cc maul" on elm now!

 

[JohnCusickjr]

Well. Got through 1/2 the pile, about 2 chord. Splitting/resawing was an interesting evolution of technique. More after I get cleaned up.
I can't stand the smell of red oak. Boatbuilders I used to work with called it piss oak...

 

[JohnCusickjr]

Back. Kids in bed ...
I went at the pile, thinking I would buck to 16" lengths first ( that's a good length for our Vermont Castings Vigiliant). I had a 20" on a 361 and a 28" on a 460. I wound up doing most of the bucking with the 460-FAST. Boy, that saw, with fresh RS semi skip is sure a pleasure to use.
I then started full quartering with the 460 and realized this sucks, it's going to take forever. I needed a soda, came in and saw a freshly sharpened 2" framing chisel sitting on my desk that my helper worked on tuning up today and I thought AH, I should SPLIT those suckers. So I put edges on a few wedges, grabbed a 10 pounder and went at it. The 361 worked perfect for kerfing, just makes startiing the wedge easier (got tired of them falling on my toes).
So the hand splitting in combination with a 3" or of kerf was a home run on most stuff.
Then I come back to this thread and here's this gread discussion splainin jus twha tI found...
Thanks all.
More oak to come tomorrow. I hear it's white

regards
Jc

 

[B_Turner]

More oak to come tomorrow. I hear it's white

regards
Jc

In the turning world we call this a drive by wood gloat.

 

[JohnCusickjr]

Yes, I realize I'm blessed with the generosity of my buddy.