I just scored an Oregon 511 grinder and need to know what size wheels I'll need for .325 and 3/8th pitch chain,both full chisel and semi chisel.Also would like to know who makes the best wheels. Any input will be appreciated. Dan
Question about grinder wheels
- Thread starter Big Dan
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Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
For the Semi Chisel chains with .325" pitch a 1/8" grinding wheel works well. It also works with the 3/8" pitch (90) (91). Use the 3/16" Wheel for the standard 3/8"pitch chain, but the 1/8" is also recommended.
066blaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
On .325 use the 1/8 the3/16 will hit the rakers on newer chains. 3/16 will work on 3/8
Contrary to NT's recommendations for their clone grinder, I find the 1/8" wheel works best for 1/4", .325" and 3/8" LP chains, and 3/16" wheel for all 3/8" chains. These wheels are ~5.75" diameter.
Baileys have good prices on Molemab wheels (~$14 ea) which work well for me, and Oregon's which are ~$35 each, depending on diam. You can get good prices on 5.75" wheels from NT, and even get good results sometimes with them, after lots of truing with a "brick".
Baileys have good prices on Molemab wheels (~$14 ea) which work well for me, and Oregon's which are ~$35 each, depending on diam. You can get good prices on 5.75" wheels from NT, and even get good results sometimes with them, after lots of truing with a "brick".
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
One time I did a search for grinding wheels, and it appears that the majority of them are actually made at the same manufacturer with different brand names slapped on the production runs. Hmmm! Harbor Freight may see my face next time I need a grinding wheel.
You can look on the Oregon and STIHL websites to see what they recommend for specific chains. As noted, some .325 cutters work better with 1/8" wheels, and some with 3/16" wheels - you end up with different hook profiles.
Oregon and Molemab are the wheels I most commonly see. Molemab occasionally on sale at Bailey's for $10. I stay away from the cheap/ no brand wheels.
Tecomec actually sells wheels of several different grits and hardnesses for these grinders, but you never see them offered.
Make sure that you dress the wheels frequently, to clean the edge and expose fresh aggragate, not just to shape them.
Philbert
Oregon and Molemab are the wheels I most commonly see. Molemab occasionally on sale at Bailey's for $10. I stay away from the cheap/ no brand wheels.
Tecomec actually sells wheels of several different grits and hardnesses for these grinders, but you never see them offered.
Make sure that you dress the wheels frequently, to clean the edge and expose fresh aggragate, not just to shape them.
Philbert
Some guys also use CBN or ABN wheels, which are metal discs coated with abrasive. The $200 ones are supposed to be better than the $100 ones.
Philbert
Philbert
You can download the manual for the 511A here:
http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/Oregon511amanual_english.pdf
There is a chart in there with wheel sizes for Oregon chain. The manual for the 511AX is also available on line (somewhere).
Philbert
http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/Oregon511amanual_english.pdf
There is a chart in there with wheel sizes for Oregon chain. The manual for the 511AX is also available on line (somewhere).
Philbert
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
No doubt those are better wheels. The question for the user is whether or not they are worth the money. For me, they are. The do not need dressing or truing, they cut cooler and should go 1500 or so chains without needing to be recoated.
066blaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Heck I don't like paying 10 dollars for the northern tool ones. Would never pay more. I think you can get a couple hundred Sharpenings out of em easy. Only had to buy a 1/8 because it was cracked when I bought it. I dress em once in awhile.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
If I'm using a vitreous wheel, I check the profile and dress it as needed before grinding each chain. I'm sure you can do a lot of chains with one; my 1/8" wheels have no noticeable wear on them. But I do plan to order a CBN in 1/8" now that I'm doing a fair amount of work with my 261 and grinding a few chains for my friends.
066blaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do you know where you can get another dressing block I have just been using my 1/4 wheel to dress my other wheels since I lost the block that came with it.
You can order them from Bailey's or any Oregon dealer for $7 - $8.
I have also bought them in larger sizes at hardware stores and home centers (usually by the grinding wheels).
Philbert
I have also bought them in larger sizes at hardware stores and home centers (usually by the grinding wheels).
Philbert
nmurph
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The long life of CBN/ABN wheels is an advantage, but to me the more important reason to use them is the ability to take significant amounts of metal off a cutter and not worry about changing the temper of the metal. There is no need to use the tap-tap-tap method to avoid overheating, just hog it in where it needs to be and watch the metal fly...and they work just fine for bushing against the cutter to touch up a dull cutter.
Frogfarmer
ArboristSite Operative
I don't use a grinder for profit and only sharpen 50 or so chains a year. The original pink wheel that was very porous did a very nice job, didn't overheat the teeth, didn't need a lot of maintenance and didn't last very long. Bought what I could find and was a brown wheel with a very tight grit that wears like iron. It will over heat the cutters but doesn't seem to make a big difference. It does need the profile cleaned up once in a while. It will probably last the life of the grinder. I sharpen .325 and real 3/8 semi-chisel about 50/50 and only use the 1/8 wheel. I don't cut professionally but I do cut a lot. In my opinion I think the brown wheel is the bigger bang for the buck. I have three grinders one at the house, one at the farm and one at the shop. The one at the house was made in Sweden and mostly plastic but a quality machine. The one at the farm is a cheap china made replica of something good and works fine but is very cheap and lower on power than the quality grinders. The one at the shop is the top of the line Oregon manual sharpener that does any angle, goes either direction, has a large enough motor to grind stumps, and was expensive. The fancy Oregon doesn't sharpen any better than the plastic one from Sweden that was only $140.
Different grinding wheels are like different types of sandpaper. There are coarser grits and finer grits. There are different types of abrasives used. There are different types of bonds that hold the wheels together and affect wear. Some cut faster and cooler, but wear out the wheels faster. Some wheels last a long time, but heat up the cutters more. I believe that the coloring is just added to tell the wheels apart. But these different wheels are hard to find.
Like sandpaper, if the cutter finish was really important, we might start with one wheel to shape a badly worn or damaged chain, and another to 'finish' it (to the embarrassment of snooty chain filers!). Most of us are probably satisfied with one-wheel sharpening.
http://www.tecomec.com/subcategory/chain_saw_accessories_accessories_for_chain_grinders/index.htm
7Sleeper frequently posts about his inexpensive grinder that he likes.
Philbert
Like sandpaper, if the cutter finish was really important, we might start with one wheel to shape a badly worn or damaged chain, and another to 'finish' it (to the embarrassment of snooty chain filers!). Most of us are probably satisfied with one-wheel sharpening.
http://www.tecomec.com/subcategory/chain_saw_accessories_accessories_for_chain_grinders/index.htm
7Sleeper frequently posts about his inexpensive grinder that he likes.
Philbert
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
I ain't spending that kind of money to find out. I've been using whatever wheels I can get for many years. Never had any problems. Those CBN wheels are probably for professionals who keep those wheels spinning 5 days a week, and don't want a lot of down time replacing wheels. JMTC
I use the Molemab wheels ($10 each when on sale at Bailey's). MCW has posted on the CBN wheels, and the difference in quality. Grande Dog also echoed similar comments.
There have been several threads on these through the years. The advantages reported are faster grinding and less risk of burning - could be advantages with payback for higher volume use.
Philbert
I got an absolute steal of a price on a used Oregon 511A. When I got it home I found that the threads were mostly stripped on the vice hold down. The vice wouldn't hold down when tilted. Had to buy a new vice for $125. The 511A was no longer a good deal but I still didn't get hurt. I only do full size 3/8" and the big Stihl .325" chain so I just use a 3/16" CBN wheel. It grinds true left and right and I absolutely love it. I don't do but a couple dozen chains/year cutting firewood.
I went through some of those Chinese wheels which I consider not worth their cost no matter what it is. The hubs are not accurate and they wobble. You can grind a nice chain with one if you're careful and take your time but the noise and vibration sounds harmful to your grinder.
I was hand filing with the Oregon clamp on jigs and having good results but I think the Oregon 511A is a little better. I could work up a good sweat with the filing jig on a rocked chain in the summer. The grinder is a lot easier.
I have found that new Oregon chain will often be different on the left and right cutters and sometimes the new chain angles are way off. The clamp on jigs and the Oregon 511A straighten all the bad stuff out.
I went through some of those Chinese wheels which I consider not worth their cost no matter what it is. The hubs are not accurate and they wobble. You can grind a nice chain with one if you're careful and take your time but the noise and vibration sounds harmful to your grinder.
I was hand filing with the Oregon clamp on jigs and having good results but I think the Oregon 511A is a little better. I could work up a good sweat with the filing jig on a rocked chain in the summer. The grinder is a lot easier.
I have found that new Oregon chain will often be different on the left and right cutters and sometimes the new chain angles are way off. The clamp on jigs and the Oregon 511A straighten all the bad stuff out.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
Old post but, if others search this and have your same issue those threads are repairable for a few bucks with a helicoil kit.
