Questions on proper felling technique

[Matt J Leppek]

The owner of the tree service I work for and I but heads a lot about proper felling technique. He is very knowledgeable and I have learned a lot from him, even if I have been hesitant about some of his teachings. One thing I could never get past is his felling technique, which goes against a lot of experience and research I have done.

He likes to make deep face notches, sometimes going past 1/2 of the trees diameter. His explanation is manipulating the apex of the tree, shifting the weight towards the direction of the felling. The more the back lean, the deeper the face cut. He also says you get more hold wood by cutting below the hinge. We always use rope to pull trees over (with and without come along), and he thinks wedges are a waste of time and carries no plastic wedges.

When I am making a face cut, I never like to go further than a 1/3 of the tree, typically staying more towards 1/4 or less. If there is a heavy back lean and the diameter of the tree allows it, I will pair wedges with rope to overcome it. If the diameter of the tree is smaller or there is little not significant lean, I just have another crew member pull it over. I have always preferred using a boring cut with rope, as cutting the back strap while another crew member pulls saves them a lot of fatigue, where the owner says a boring cut is more dangerous and less effective then a regular back cut.

Basically I am curious if my practices are incorrect. I do removals independently as well, and want to be as safe as possible for the homeowner and myself.

 

[HuskStihl]

Your method sounds pretty standard. U'r boss is a bit more old school. If every one is pulled over anyway, I'm not sure it matters quite as much

 

[ScottinAK]

I go for 1/3 face cut. We pull alot of trees too, not my choice usually. My crew pulls or pushes trees I don't think need the persuading and is a loss of production. You cut it right and the tree will do as it should, usually. But remember, we don't control trees, we just influence them. I say unless your boss has an issue with your methods, keep at it, sounds like you're doing good. Maybe explain to him your reasoning, if he's open like that. And we have one plastic wedge and no axes, another thing I disagree with.

 

[BC WetCoast]

I will use a deep notch when dropping the final peg on a removal. Without the foliage, getting a peg to drop can be challenging and a lot of pulling for your crew.

Worksafe BC dictates that the backcut has to be above the notch to prevent tree from sliding back on the stump.

 

[Matt J Leppek]

Thanks for the replies. The deep notch makes sense for pegs, I dropped a 26in ash today and I had to help pull it over. Will have to try it next time!

 

[ATH]

You have it right. I have been to several different official courses over the years (Game of Logging, a half day class by a Husqvarna trainer, Ohio Forestry Association's CSAW, an introductory to USFS S212, etc...) and they all teach similar techniques to what you describe.

No wedges is just odd. They are a simple, cheap, and very effective tool. Never hurts to have just that much more insurance. I rarely pull trees - most can be wedged...sometimes by stacking two wedges. Of course, my training and background is more geared towards timber felling practices, so pulling a tree with a rope is not really seen as an option - you learn to use wedges.

 

[Matt J Leppek]

No wedges is just odd. They are a simple, cheap, and very effective tool. Never hurts to have just that much more insurance. I rarely pull trees - most can be wedged...sometimes by stacking two wedges. Of course, my training and background is more geared towards timber felling practices, so pulling a tree with a rope is not really seen as an option - you learn to use wedges.

I started in the forest, so I learned on wedges. Boss argues that wedges take longer than roping, but I argue the opposite. The time it takes to get out the rope and use a throw bag to put a rope in the tree, I'm grabbing a couple wedges off the stump.

A tip I learned for double wedging is grab a pinch of saw chips and toss them on top of the first wedge, it acts as friction for the second wedge so they don't slip around when you pound them in.

 

[ATH]

I'll have to try that.

 

[HuskStihl]

Dirt works well too

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Even when roping, I chase with a wedge as a back-up and progress capture. If the rope slips, or breaks a limb and tightens up, it won't rock back and stress the hinge.

As far as your boss goes, there are guys with 20 years experience, and guys with one year experience 20 times over.

 

[Skeans]

Never used a rope but have cut well pulling with a D7 and winch I still go between 1/3 to 1/2 and then use a standard back cut. Now that a good way to help it from kicking back use a humboldt face with a slight step on the back cut. I still prefer using a jack and a wedge to place a back leaner where I want, but I fall timber for a living.

Both were back leaners on cutting lines the fir was around 250 foot tall so lots of leverage.


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[CanopyGorilla]

30%-50% face cut is a good way to get a tree moving, but coming in low is ill advised.

 

[CanopyGorilla]

I do believe that a 50% face cut gives you the most holding wood possible, but you better nail it because more than 50% gets scetchy,

 

[Skeans]

Only time I'll use over half is on dead wood to try not to do any wedging.


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[Matt J Leppek]

Never used a rope but have cut well pulling with a D7 and winch I still go between 1/3 to 1/2 and then use a standard back cut. Now that a good way to help it from kicking back use a humboldt face with a slight step on the back cut. I still prefer using a jack and a wedge to place a back leaner where I want, but I fall timber for a living.

Thanks for sharing, I like the idea of using a jack. Have never witnessed that in practice before. Not many trees in my area are large enough to make use of it, but definitely good to know.

I do believe that a 50% face cut gives you the most holding wood possible, but you better nail it because more than 50% gets scetchy,

Why do you say you get the most hold wood with a 50% face? Not disagreeing, just genuinely curious.

 

[HuskStihl]

All I'm gonna say about going real deep on the face cut is you had better have read the lean right, or have a strong rope in the tree before you start

 

[CanopyGorilla]

Thanks for sharing, I like the idea of using a jack. Have never witnessed that in practice before. Not many trees in my area are large enough to make use of it, but definitely good to know.




Why do you say you get the most hold wood with a 50% face? Not disagreeing, just genuinely curious.

Widest part of the tree= the most wood.

 

[Skeans]

Thanks for sharing, I like the idea of using a jack. Have never witnessed that in practice before. Not many trees in my area are large enough to make use of it, but definitely good to know.




Why do you say you get the most hold wood with a 50% face? Not disagreeing, just genuinely curious.

Most of the time we put the jack in first, then open up the face I always prefer a humboldt face or a block face to get the tree off the stump away from you.


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[Matt J Leppek]

Widest part of the tree= the most wood.

Wouldn't you get more effective hold wood away from the heart of the tree?

 

[Skeans]

Sap wood is the strongest wood


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