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RatchetScrench: The original ratcheting scrench!

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RatchetScrench

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The RatchetScrench!
Reviews, comments and suggestions related to the RatchetScrench can continue, here!

The RatchetScrench is the original ratcheting chainsaw-maintenance tool!
Proudly invented, designed and founded by US Forest Service Hotshot firefighters, the RatchetScrench finally brings ratcheting technology to the scrench!
The RatchetScrench makes the toughest jobs just a bit easier.

Information/Purchase here.



Looking forward to everyones' thoughts!
-Nick, Owner/Founder
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I love the idea, but can I ask why it uses 12 point sockets instead of 6? Other than that, I would be very interested in a few of these.
We went with 12-point sockets for a more precise "feel," especially when used under 3/4 or full-wrap bars. (As you put the tool on the nut, you're closer to an immediate fit with a 12-point socket).
Thanks for the interest and I hope you'll give it a try!
 
I love the idea, but can I ask why it uses 12 point sockets instead of 6? Other than that, I would be very interested in a few of these.
My guess would be that given the application of bar nuts and spark plugs, the torque application isnt apt to cause common failures that 12pt sockets are known for. Its hand tight on both.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
Once the bolt has broken from the initial torque (Something like a 1/4 of a turn), will the scrench still ratchet on the loose but? Otherwise you’ll end up using it like a normal scrench, same question for tightening, will it only ratchet when the bolt is basically tight? Cover bolts have no resistance until the very final bite. Also what is it like under heavy conditions, does the scrench get filled with crud and if so can it be dismantled and cleaned like a normal ratchet?
 
My guess would be that given the application of bar nuts and spark plugs, the torque application isnt apt to cause common failures that 12pt sockets are known for. Its hand tight on both.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Exactly. The RatchetScrench is made of high-carbon steel and is heat-treated. I used the prototype all last summer with no problems.
 
Once the bolt has broken from the initial torque (A 5th of a turn), will the scrench still ratchet on the loose but? Otherwise you’ll end up using it like a normal scrench, same question for tightening, will it only ratchet when the bolt is basically tight? Cover bolts have no resistance until the very final bite. Also what is it like under heavy conditions, does the scrench get filled with crud?
After a summer of using the tool, I got used to putting the socket on the nut, then turning the socket (to tighten/loosen the nut) and then finishing off with a few cranks of the ratchet. Worked great! (And you subconsciously remember to flip the switch, because your nut is either already tight or already loose).
As for maintenance of the tool, crud will get in the slot, but it never quit working for me. A compressed-air blast is probably a good idea from time to time. And bar oil is a perfect lubricant! Thanks!
 
After a summer of using the tool, I got used to putting the socket on the nut, then turning the socket (to tighten/loosen the nut) and then finishing off with a few cranks of the ratchet. Worked great! (And you subconsciously remember to flip the switch, because your nut is either already tight or already loose).
As for maintenance of the tool, crud will get in the slot, but it never quit working for me. A compressed-air blast is probably a good idea from time to time. And bar oil is a perfect lubricant! Thanks!
So do you tighten the nut most of the way like you would with a normal scrench? Also, am I right in saying you’d be very limited with what saws spark plugs can be removed with it because normally that area is very confined by cylinder fins of plastic shrouds in the way.
 
So do you tighten the nut most of the way like you would with a normal scrench? Also, am I right in saying you’d be very limited with what saws spark plugs can be removed with it because normally that area is very confined by cylinder fins of plastic shrouds in the way.
I think what hes saying is, vs having to handle the nut and start it by hand, you can pop it in the socket and use the opposite socket to run it down then use the ratchet mechanism for the last couple strokes, without having to remove and reset.

As for plugs, most saws use something similar in size to a CJ7Y...short plug, no doubt there would be a few models where the filter or plastic is in the way but i can also think of some models you have to remove stuff to access with normal tools anyways.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
So do you tighten the nut most of the way like you would with a normal scrench? Also, am I right in saying you’d be very limited with what saws spark plugs can be removed with it because normally that area is very confined by cylinder fins of plastic shrouds in the way.
Hand-tighten the nut as far as you normally would (like a traditional scrench), then put the RatchetScrench socket on the nut and hand-tighten by turning the socket with your fingers. This quickly lets you know that your switch is in the right direction, because you can let the handle drop down to the perfect spot to begin ratcheting. Use it a few times and you'll develop the muscle-memory and never go back :)
As for spark plugs, you're correct; some are compatible, some aren't. (For example, some Stihls require a deep socket...some will work with the RatchetScrench). We had to decide between a deep socket or fitting under 3/4 and full-wrap bars.
It is compatible with many Husky spark plugs...
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Thanks!
 
Also, am I right in saying you’d be very limited with what saws spark plugs can be removed with it because normally that area is very confined by cylinder fins of plastic shrouds in the way.

As for plugs, most saws use something similar in size to a CJ7Y...short plug, no doubt there would be a few models where the filter or plastic is in the way but i can also think of some models you have to remove stuff to access with normal tools anyways.
I ran into similar issues with another, non-traditional scrench, and realized that I personally don't pull spark plugs that frequently on modern saws. So, it is not a big deal to me to have one tool with me for adjusting bar and chain tension frequently in the field, and a different tool, kept in a tool bag (along with my T27, rags, spare chains, sharpening stuff, etc.) for those limited times when I need to pull the plug.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-flat-scrench.304350/
Other folks may pull their plugs a lot. The other extreme are those 'Swiss Army-style' folding tool sets that do everything, but not necessarily well.

Philbert
 
Great thanks for the replies! You’ve priced it well too, I’ll continue to follow along with curiosity :)
Thanks, Tom. Pricing was definitely a concern. To keep it affordable, we left out some modifications that you could do, yourself (bright color, hole for lanyard, for example)...Those kinds of additions add up. So for the price of a case of beer, I think most will find it to be a worthy purchase. Our motto is "making the toughest jobs just a bit easier." Even if that means saving just a few seconds of frustration, progress has been made! Hope to see your order, soon! In the mean time, I'm happy to check in from time to time to answer questions and talk shop about the RatchetScrench! Thanks, again :)
 
To keep it affordable, we left out some modifications that you could do, yourself (bright color, hole for lanyard, for example)...

How much does a hole cost? Why would you pay for something not there?

Seriously, losing screnches is a fact of life. But losing a $20 scrench hurts more than a $3 one. Can you share some of the ideas you had about tethering, holsters, etc., that we might 'do ourselves'?
Here is one I do with the cheap ones (Post #8):
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/handy-belt-mod-for-carrying-a-scrench.263271/
Scrench on a leash.jpg

So for the price of a case of beer, I think most will find it to be a worthy purchase.
Shoot . . . I could'a had a case of beer?

Philbert
 
How much does a hole cost? Why would you pay for something not there?

Seriously, losing screnches is a fact of life. But losing a $20 scrench hurts more than a $3 one. Can you share some of the ideas you had about tethering, holsters, etc., that we might 'do ourselves'?
Here is one I do with the cheap ones (Post #8):
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/handy-belt-mod-for-carrying-a-scrench.263271/


Shoot . . . I could'a had a case of beer?

Philbert

To clarify, we left out modifications, not features. Modifications to the tool are at the buyer's discretion; you may choose to drill a hole for a lanyard, or paint it hot pink... many will leave the RatchetScrench the way they receive it. On the other hand, the features are things everybody will appreciate, and use. For example, the flathead screwdriver tip is specifically designed to fit inside your bar chain-groove, so you can clean the gunk out of your bar, even when you're in the field. Our wildland firefighters will love that feature when they're spiked out on day 10!

I am curious where the lanyard holes will go, though. Some will definitely do it. (Looking at the lanyard in your thread, I wonder if a hole in the socket--near the collar-- would cause the lanyard to get in the way of the ratcheting action).

Personally, I use the pocket-method:
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But I'd like to see a nice, leather-made holster of some sort. There are some great leatherworkers out there. Mark Fanders of Newberg, OR comes to mind; I bought a Leatherman holster from him six years ago and beat the heck out of it year-round, and it's good as new. Best $30 I've spent on eBay. I'm going to hit him up and see if he's inspired to create a RatchetScrench holster.
Custom-made leather RatchetScrench-holsters would be evidence that this tool is a winner, in my opinion! Even if you could'a had a case of beer, instead. :laugh:
 
A $3 scrench works, is cheap, and is simple and to the point. You only use a scrench to tighten or loosen a bar nut or spark plug- spinning it on or off is faster with your fingers than a ratchet anyway. Your device is more expensive ($22 with shipping) to carry something heavier and more complicated (read : prone to fail), and without an easy way to keep from losing it. I think this is a solution looking for a problem.
 
Got one as I was curious yesterday. I just want to have to use on the bench mainly and to test out.

I mean there is not one scrench that does it all depending on the saws you are carrying. Got 10mm and up ones. Full wraps etc.

I could see different ones offered in the future using this idea.

scrrrrr.jpg
 
A $3 scrench works, is cheap, and is simple and to the point. You only use a scrench to tighten or loosen a bar nut or spark plug- spinning it on or off is faster with your fingers than a ratchet anyway. Your device is more expensive ($22 with shipping) to carry something heavier and more complicated (read : prone to fail), and without an easy way to keep from losing it. I think this is a solution looking for a problem.
Give it a try; you'll love it. Those are frustrating seconds that you'll save. I used the prototype all last summer; couldn't wait to get on forums like this to offer a product that I know most hardworking folks will appreciate. It never broke, slipped or bent, even with sawdust and oil in it. The weight is 145 grams (5.11 ounces) (0.32 lbs). Thanks for the interest!
 
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